First, there came a soft, thin cotton fabric that did not make it to my stash. It was much nicer than I expected for a mere $3/yard, $9 total. Fabric Mart described it as "Rainy Gray/White/Dark Blood Red/Wheat 100% Cotton Vertical Stripe Weave Shirt Weight". The cut was slightly over 3 yards and remained very close to 45" wide after washing. It irons nicely but reverts to a slightly rumpled look after ironing. Sewing this into a shirt was a break from my Green for Spring theme, but it might fit into my closet considering the recent additions of a black skirt and black pants.
The pattern is for a shirt from 1977, McCalls 5647. Although a newer pattern would provide more options in sizing and styles, the vintage pattern was chosen for the short sleeves. This fabric is thin and might be wearable in the summer heat. It has pleats and 3 length options. My earlier success with a McCalls pattern from the same era and in the same size made me think 5647 would be a good fit, both in my wardrobe and for me. However, the style and cut in this short sleeved shirt were different. The safe approach was to use this inexpensive fabric and hope for the best.
The sizing in 5647 seemed quite large for a 12, bust 34, but that is deceptive. There is 10" ease at the front, but there is a 3" pleat. The back is even smaller.
Notes: The stitching line around the bottom of the slash line measures 3/4" wide. It is an inch high, but that probably does not matter. Its purpose is to reinforce the bottom of the slash. The 1 1/4" wide stitching lines below the placket, which are merely the front folded over, eliminate any way to match the stripe unless the stripe pattern repeats at 1 1/4". The notch on the left front facing and on the front, the matching notch, are cut inward--a bit confusing and thus worth noting.
With the front placket completed, the pocket was attached to left front. The raw edges on the inside were finished with a little zigzag to stop them from fraying.
Laying the pieces out for cutting was done in the traditional manner, with the stripes running lengthwise on the collar and stand, vertically on the front and back, and horizontally on the yoke. Pocket stripes are vertical so that the pocket can be matched to the shirt front.
On thinking through the pattern construction steps, it is apparent that shirts have few exposed seams, just the ones on the side seam and armhole. This is an advantage that makes me view sewing shirts more favorably.
Collar construction was tricky. However, it went on smoothly. Hand stitching the points on the stand neatened up the attachment to the shirt. Although the collar facing was secured by topstitching it was also hand stitched on the edge for comfort. Watching a Pattern Scout video revealed that the collar should be shaped by ironing it before sewing. The video also included a neat trick for sewing the end of the stand around the placket by tucking the placket inside the stand, sewing the stand ends on the wrong side and then pulling the placket right side out.
The sleeves are short. There was enough fabric left for long sleeves, even after cutting out the short ones. The thought of trying out one of each tempted me, but the short sleeves are fine. The sleeves have a cuff that is hemmed in a clever fashion, encasing the raw edge of the hem into a tuck that forms the top of the cuff.
Setting in the sleeves is truly old school. There is only one line of gathering stitches. A thread is pulled at the top of the sleeve to gather the ease. The stitching runs around the armhole, with stitch length shortened to form stay stitching in the lower armhole and lengthened to form gathering stitches between the notches. This is such a novel, multi-purpose approach, much simpler than the current method of sewing in two lines of gathering stitches, one on each side of the seamline, and pulling the loose threads of both to make the easing even. It worked well.
The shirt was hemmed about an inch shorter than the tunic length. It is a basic wardrobe piece, but it is too close fitting for my taste. Also, the pocket is too high. My dislike of the high pocket is either an indicator that it is just too small for my proportions or it might just be me, because other shirts have pockets at this level.
I could get rid of this pattern. There is no bust dart. It is slim-fitting, making me assume that the size 12 only worked in the other pattern because the fit was oversized. I could make it again, enlarging it as best I can, but I don't love the style enough.
If you are still with me, let me admit another failure. I lost my blog post editing, temporarily. I attribute it to a new security requirement. Thanks, google. In poking around my blog setting to try to determine the source of the problem, I noticed that I had failed to change my e-mail address--years ago. All this time, I thought I had turned off the comments. No. I just didn't get the messages that I had a comment awaiting moderation anymore. Now I am debating. Do I need comments? Can I even turn them off? This debate is not major. If you would like to comment or ask a question, I will get a notification now. I can review the comment and decide whether to publish it. I can also respond, most likely by posting a comment below yours, which is no use except to anyone who reads the comments later. I may be able to respond directly if you have a profile linked that includes a contact address. I have opened the comments to anyone, but they are moderated.
My purpose here is to provide a record of sewing up a pattern as an aid in sewing up the pattern a second time. Increasingly, I find that I remember the pattern steps when I attempt it again. I do consult my notes here, but my skills are reaching the point where I don't need them.
All to say that if this blogging stops, that doesn't mean I stopped sewing and knitting. Comments are nice, but I dress for myself now.
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