Since my original experience with a vintage sewing pattern was very satisfying, I bought a bunch more. The patterns from the 70's are my home ground, since that is when I first learned to sew. Besides my familiarity with the older patterns, I suspect that the sizing is a better fit for me. Mostly, my suspicions are that the length of the skirt and the torso are shorter in these older patterns, while newer ones are sized for taller bodies. All to say that I am glad to have the option of using patterns from so many different eras and sources. Sewing has become a nice distraction from life's stressors.
My first choice for vintage sewing fun was a 1950 pattern, McCall's 8246. Not only does this one predate my other choices, it looks distinctly unfamiliar, right from the start--the fabric. It was designed for 54" tubular material. Tubular material is currently available, but it is usually ribbed knit intended for use as cuffs and hems on athletic garments. There's no information on what tubular material was in the 50s--knit (likely), woven, cotton, wool, or? With no other guidance than that, I first elected to use a modestly priced cotton flannel for the toile.
It is 3 yards of Shetland Flannel, 100% cotton, made in India, SRKF-13937-12 Grey, Machine wash, cold, delicate cycle, do not bleach, tumble dry low: cool iron, 44" wide. Purchased for $6.50/yd, or a total of $17.50 from Hodge Podge fabric shop in Salida, Co.
Although this thrifty choice would have made an effective toile and been a casual version of the dress, it was too little. There was not enough of this fabric for this pattern, which requires 2 2/3 yards of fabric that is 54" wide or wider. Although seams can be hidden in the body at the front and back tucks, making it possible to piece the body from two cuts 26" wide, that approach would use all of the Shetland Flannel. There would be nothing left for the yokes and the sleeves. Since, admittedly, the flannel is too casual for this dress, that idea was dropped.
Seeking a good use for the flannel, I read some descriptions and suggestions from sellers of this fabric. The one that struck me was "pajamas." Aha. The idea came to me to continue the pants making and produce pants that feel like pajamas--making "secret pajamas", a term that became popular a couple of years ago, when people were staying home during the pandemic. Coincidentally, I have a pattern set aside for a skirt that includes pants, rather roomy pleated pants with an elastic waistband. Not only does it look pajama-y, it will produce a toile that will guide me in the skirt making.
Thus began Simplicity 1887, View A, elastic waist pants with pockets. The starting size was a 16, the largest size in the size block I purchased--after all, this is a toile. Even though the fabric shrunk to 42" wide and 2" short of 3 yards long, there was plenty for the size 16 pants cut to the full pattern length (i.e. not shortened). Leg edges were overcast before sewing together. Assembly followed the instructions except for cautiously sewing a 3/8" seam at the top of the 4 vertical seams (side seams and center seams). This resulted in a 44" waist, much larger than needed and too large for the waistband.
My next step was to sew the standard 5/8" seam in the center and side seams of the pants. With a 3/8" seam at the waistband side seams, the waistband fit nicely onto the pants and in the end, onto me, due to the elastic in the back. The elastic is extremely difficult to insert in the two casings by following the instructions. Whether it was due to the thickness of the fabric, the flimsy elastic, or the tightness of the casing--or the combination of all of those problems, it was hard. No-roll elastic, a wider casing and starting from the center back instead of the front might work better when I make the skirt.
The pattern piece for the elastic is long enough, probably too long. With the waist at 32", there was at least 3" extra on the starting end. Some of that may be because it is underwear elastic, which is more stretchy than no-roll. It is also more comfy and more prone to twisting.
Taking up the inseams 1/4" and the side seams 1/2" brought the pants below the waist down to size 14. This is still a very roomy fit with a lot of ease. The skirt might be best in a size 12, depending on how much stretch there is in the fabric. The sizing is a little surprising. Based on my measurements, a size 14 should fit my hips. The finished hip measurement is 45 1/2". That's 7 1/2" of ease. Is so much ease for style, comfort, or movement? Either reason will do because these pants are truly comfy, warm, secret pajamas.
The pattern leaves the waistband edge turned down and exposed rather than turned up covered by the band. They suggest machine finishing the edge, but I opted to bind it with some gray seam binding. Turning it over the edge was a bit tight because it was single fold, but all I had in gray.
The pants are hemmed at 1 1/4", as recommended, with a blind hem. They are intended to be ankle length. They are a bit longer on me, with the hem exactly where I prefer it, in the middle of my heel.
Sewing the pants went quickly. Although the dress could be next, I am considering instead a flannel shirt. It will be appropriate for Winter through Spring as it is a very light flannel.
Not to worry, That 1950s dress is coming. I found some 58" wide green lyocell in my fabric stash. It will serve as the toile of the dress. This will move the project into my other Spring sewing, which has a theme--Green! I have stashed four or five pieces of fabric that will bring green to my wardrobe this Spring.
While pondering the possibilities, I had a look through the fabrics I have stashed away. It adds up to $778 in about 45 pieces. That's about $17 per project. It is a frugal amount, but it ranges greatly. Some pieces are only suitable for toiles, some are quite nice, and some I regret buying.
And, what did I make in 2023? The fabric cost totaled $275, producing 18 items, so about $16 each.
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