Continuing the navy blues in Simplicity 9018

As the weather turned cooler this year, a shortage of long sleeve knit shirts in my closet became noticeable.  That meant a look at the fabrics and patterns I have accumulated.   Simplicity 9018 provided a mock turtleneck top, a look that is trending this fall.  The pattern has simple, casual separates for knit fabrics.   A recent addition to my fabric collection is 2 yards of Art Gallery Fabrics Gentle Draft Knit in Moonrise, 95% cotton, 5% spandex, 58" wide.  This came from  the Confident Stitch in Montana at a price of $37.80.    Pattern calls for 1 5/8 yards for the long sleeve top.  This version was cut on the medium size, grading to the large just above the waist.  There was about 3/4 of a yard of fabric remaining. 

The size lines are not marked on the left side of the neck piece.  Before I realized this, I cut along the line that is near the small dot for the size M.  This makes it 7/8" too short.  A narrower seam left it only 3/8" too short.  It is actually a nice fit, requiring just a little easing required to sew it to the neckline.

  

It is all sewn with a stretch stitch (lighting stitch, i.e. it looks like lightning bolts) on a tiny BP needle with less pressure--all because this fabric is very cushy and stretchy.   In the end, I resorted to the walking foot to get a smooth seam.  The regular foot stretched the fabric and made the seam ruffle.

Using a 3/8" seam allowance on the sides provided even more ease, but it was necessary to grade to a 5/8" allowance at the armholes so the sleeves fit.  

The sleeves went in well.  The hem length is per pattern.  It is hemmed with a wavy stitch, to match the print in fabric.  This stitch stretches better than plain top stitching and is inspired by quilting bloggers, who often match the stitch to the print.