There were 2 yards of 90% lyocell, 10% rayon fabric in my stash. It is blue with a white ticking-style stripe, 56" wide (machine wash gentle cold, line dry, cool iron). Actually it was two pieces totaling a little over 2 yards, found in the remnant bin at JoAnn's last summer. Total cost was $16.50. It's just enough for a camp shirt, using the same old pattern as my first camp shirt.
The other copy of the vintage Simplicity 7662, this one from 1986 in a size 14, has been used--View 1 is cut. Size 14 is probably not large enough for an overshirt. In fact, my first version of this pattern, though a size 16, could be looser. My plan was to trace the main pieces out onto pattern paper, enlarging it by 1/4" or so. The funny thing is, however, that View 1 of this pattern was cut larger than the 14. Cut quite neatly, enlarged by 1/2" on the sides, with the notches transferred (cut outward, as is my preference) and the lines carefully extended. It must have been owned originally by my fairy godmother. The yoke is not larger. That might be a problem for my square shoulders. Let's not spoil me too much--a pattern with the main pieces cut to my plan is enough of a gift.
During an extremely careful cutting process, with each piece cut separately on a single layer of fabric, as many times as needed, it was easy to add a half inch to each side of the yoke. Getting the stripes straight was impossible but they were close enough to straight that they were sewn straight. Since the pocket is small, it was cut out last--shirt pockets aren't strictly necessary. However, since there was a good bit of fabric left, the pocket was cut about an inch wider and longer. The pocket in my first version seems small. Following the current striped shirt trend, the stripes on the pocket are horizontal.
Assembly went well, with most of the sewing done on my vintage Singer. Since getting it out of storage, it has proved a revelation in comparison to my Janome. There is no catching of the bobbin thread at the start of a seam, an annoying problem that creates a nest of bobbin thread that must be picked out if it shows. This happens consistently on my Janome. The Singer does tend to stall at the start, especially if the edge is thick. A hump-jumper would help, but a bit of cardboard will substitute for one. Seams are straighter, probably because the Singer has a straight stitch foot. That and a straight stitch throat plate would be a good addition to the Janome. Speaking of throat plates, the simple markings on the Singer are so much easier to use. On the negatives, the Singer is noisier, seems to rattle, even after oiling, and lacks some of the special features of the Janome. Automatic thread cutter for one. But then, Janome blames the thread cutter for the little thread "nests" at the start of a seam. They suggest securing the bobbin thread under the foot will solve that problem.
With this fabric, the foot pressure was causing the top layer to stretch out, especially when the lower layer is interfaced. This problem diminished with adjustment, but the Janome does have a foot pressure adjustment that is easier to gauge. This rayon fabric is very prone to biasing. Much of the problem with foot pressure and crookedness can be written off to that.
The collar went on ok, but the method of assembly in this pattern means that the facing is actually the visible side, not the collar. Picking out the better looking cut for the collar piece that was interfaced did not work. It will be hidden under the collar once the collar is folded down properly. The less better looking collar facing is on top.
Side seams were first basted in so that the fit could be checked. The fit checked out, but the stripes were not symmetrical at the sides. After ripping out the basting, stripes were matched and sides trimmed. Then the sewing and serging resulted in two seams that are at least each symmetrical, though not matching one to the other. Since the rule is to match horizontal stripes at vertical seams and vertical stripes at horizontal seams, this one was a bonus--vertical stripes aligned symmetrically at vertical seams.
The hem for this pattern is straight. My preference is a shirt-tail shaped hem. To achieve the curved hem, the hem from another shirt pattern was cut into this one. There was plenty of fabric to allow cutting, since the front and back were cut 4" longer than the pattern. This made for a more difficult hemming job, even with stitching 1/4" in and folding on the stitching. However, the rayon is malleable enough to fold smoothly along a curved hem. The curve is much more flattering than a straight hem.
The sleeves were modified by using a continuous lap on a slit instead of the 1" gap provided in the pattern. The cuff is 2" longer, which made it easier to insert the gathered sleeve and allowed for enough room to slip the cuff over my hand without unbuttoning it. Attaching the sleeves to the shirt was made easier by using my vintage method. First, sew around the sleeve cap 1/8" inside the seam line, lengthening the stitch length to baste after the first notch, going back to a regular stitch length after the second notch. Then, pin the sleeve in place, gathering the excess sleeve fabric by pulling up on the basting stitches as needed. Finally, sew on the seam line, with the sleeve on top, arranging the gathered fabric to avoid puckers. Works like a charm, no tucks in the sleeve, no pleating around the armhole either. My vintage singer forced me to try this method because it doesn't have a free arm. The sleeve insertion was finished off by serging around the armhole.
Unfortunately, the Singer doesn't have an automatic buttonhole attachment either. For that reason, the plackets are basted and topstitched in place and the cuffs are sewn together through the attached button.
Not that I haven't done dozens of buttonholes on this machine. It is just that I have been spoiled by the buttonholer on my Janome. Once it's back, I will add all the buttonholes.
None of the modeled photos show the detail that I admired so much on the camp shirt that inspired me--the gathered shoulder seam.
There, isn't that pretty? It was an appealing detail on "Mrs. Hall's" shirt.
The fit is great, but those stripes--they either remind me of pajamas or prison stripes.
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