Thursday, October 27, 2022

McCalls 7650 and McCalls 8055

I consider this my special occasion contingency outfit. A little dressy, but comfy enough for casual wear. After looking everywhere for a mauve python print knit fabric like the one I saw a Craftsy instructor display, I settled and ordered a similar fabric from JoAnn. Hers was a scuba knit, this one is a jersey that is 90% viscose, 10% spandex and 57" wide. I got 2 yards from for $13.58. Using the long a-line skirt view from McCalls 8055, I replaced the pattern's simple elasticized waistband with my successful fold-over waistband mod, using a ribbed gray rayon/poly/lycra knit from Fabric Mart. Although the slanted pockets I designed with that waistband worked well on the slim skirts, simple side-seam pockets were enough in this A-line skirt. Note to self: the pockets sit a little low; raise them if you repeat this make.

For the top, there was 4 yards of Matte Black 100% cotton Tissue Jersey Knit 44" wide, also from Fabric Mart for a total of $12. Since this top, cut from McCall's 7650, used less than half of that, fabric cost is only $6. That's good, because this fabric was badly biased and would not pull straight. I am not sure I can cut from it again. It is heavier than what I would consider tissue weight fabric, with a rough texture prior to washing. However, after a couple of wears and washes, it feels smooth. If this style stays in fashion, repeating this make would be a good thing. In fact, another shirt from the rest of this fabric would be a good thing. Perhaps washing the remaining fabric would shrink and straighten it.
The dress pattern was modified to make the top, adding the sleeve ruffle I used when I first made the dress and shortening the bodice by a couple of inches before adding a hem ruffle. The neckline is a bit too wide and does not stay in place well. A neckband would be a nice addition to this pattern.

ETA: I have merged here a post about another skirt in this pattern, one of the shorter flared versions. This one was sewn in May, 2021 after I had finished a bleached denim dress from the New Look 6458 pattern. Since the fabric was exceptionally heavy and comfortable (a rayon blend) for a jersey knit fabric, I bought a skirt pattern for it on Hobby Lobby's $2 pattern sale, McCalls 8055. There was enough fabric left over for the slim skirt but I had my heart set on the flared one. There was just enough for the shortest version of the flared skirt, barely, a 19" length, in a size 18, reversing the nap for the back. There is a little shading in this knit, but the variation in the print hides it.

Apparently, I cut the wrong length for the front, the 23" length, and then cut the correct length in the back. The next morning, although the difference in lengths was obvious, I decided to re-cut the pieces to allow a longer length. With a yoke across the top of the back, trimming the size 18 down to a 10, and piecing the waistband, it became a wearable skirt in spite of the error. The pattern itself is simple and the visible hem on my S3 looks great.  Otherwise, I used a knit stitch for the seams and a knit zig zag for the edgings.  I used the edge stitch that comes after the standard over edge stitch for top stitching the yoke seam in the back. Not perfect for that purpose, but ok. This is where a serger or coverstitch machine would come in handy, but if I cut patterns correctly, I won't need one for this pattern. I just need a nice medium weight knit, 1 1/2 yards of 60" would be more than enough.
This is the front

This is the back, with yoke
There are just small scraps left of this fabric, so I am allotting the rest of the purchase price to the skirt, $6. I have actually worn this skirt quite often during the summer.

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