McCalls 7122, 8092, 7606 and 7862

This post covers my incompatible sewing patterns, ones that were sewn up, hung in the closet and mostly left there. It could follow the pattern of my earlier post "Drafting Simple Sewing Patterns" and be titled "Messing up Simple Sewing Patterns". However, the pattern numbers are a more useful reference. It is not that I want to blame the patterns--the problem is not with the patterns, but with my relationship with the patterns. We are apparently, for now, incompatible. Since I have put in the effort to write about the process (I usually make notes as I sew.), I will publish my thoughts, mostly so that I will be discouraged from repeating my mistakes. I'm sure someone will look up these patterns at some time. If so, they may benefit from my experiences. However, clothes fit differently on different people and look different in different fabrics. Sometimes you don't know until you try, so don't let my opinion discourage you from trying these patterns.

First up, but last made, was McCalls 7122, a raglan dress pattern for knits (leggings are included but not attempted by me). This pattern required 1 3/4 to 3 1/2 yards of 60" medium weight knit fabric for the dress, depending on length. The only difficulty in this pattern was the cutting, simply because the large pieces were hard to align on knit fabric. Otherwise, it was a breeze. There was enough fabric to cut the large in the C length with long sleeves. View B was my preference, but after the waist was raised by 2" it would not have been long enough. Although the short sleeves would have been preferable in this fabric, I knew they would look better on me about 4" longer. However, the short sleeves are cut in an arc at the hem, precluding lengthening them.

Here is a bit of the dress, just enough to give you the effect of the print. It looked much better in the photo I saw when I ordered it.

The fabric I used was more of the cotton/poly/lyca jersey from Fabric Mart (used quite successfully for McCalls 7650), this time in a green print. Since I had purchased 2 1/3 yards for only $10.50, I added the pockets from McCalls 8085. The fabric is 56" wide, very stretchy, and sews smoothly, no walking foot required. A simple narrow zig zag worked for all the seams. Although the pattern does not suggest it, I top stitched the seam allowance down below the neckband. I find this prevents the neckband from flipping down and echos the twin needle hems. I cut 2" from the sleeves and kept them long, and then cut 2 1/2" from the hem.

Neckband--that's a nice addition, so much easier than fussing with a turned hem. A neckband also allows me to fine tune the fit by sewing a narrower seam at the back, raising the back neck a bit. The back neck is 2" below the natural neckline in this pattern, a little low for me. I find that a back neck that is too low will make the front neck ride up. Maybe that is a misconception that I derived from knitting patterns that require short rows at the back neck to lower the front?

The combination of the twin needle and the walking foot worked well for the hems. It was all very easy sewing. What is wrong? Either the dress is just unflattering, or the print is a bit too much.

In a last attempt at this pattern, I made a quick top with the short sleeves. I was not pleased with this top, either--the fit and the fabric were the problems. The short sleeves sit up above my arms too much. The fabric was a combination of a remnant and the leftover print from the dress. The remnant I used was 2/3 yard long, 60" wide, 2106847, regular $6.99/yard fabric from Hobby Lobby. The usual 30% off sale put it at $4.89/yard; my total paid was $2.79. The fabric was 96% polyester, 4% spandex, brushed, very soft and very stretchy--close to 100% stretch crosswise, some stretch lengthwise. The fabric was too stretchy to sew nicely, even with a walking foot. Also, the rust color, although flattering to my skin tones, does not go with anything in my closet. Neither the dress or the top has seen much wear so far. That should be enough to warn me away from using this pattern again.

In the summer of 2021, I tried McCalls 7606 on the theory that a wrap skirt would be more comfortable than one with a fixed width waistband. That theory did not prove to be true. For the toile, I used a blue & white variegated stripe fabric from JoAnn, 42" wide, 2 1/2 yards purchased for $22.73 plus 1 yard purchased as a remnant for $3. Since it is striped and matching was a problem, there was not much fabric left after cutting the skirt. It was 100% cotton, made in Indonesia (machine wash gentle cold, tumble dry low, warm iron). After being washed on warm/cold and dried on low, it puckered like seersucker and would not iron flat. Due to the look of the fabric and the disappointing fit, I am sorry I took so much effort with this pattern. For this first try, I modified the curved hemline to be a straight one without ruffles or curves. I cut an XL for the back, and an XXL for everything else, leaving plenty of fabric to accommodate alternations, such as deeper hems--the pattern only allows 5/8" hems. In the end, I kept the hem to 1" since it must be curved due to the a-line shaping. It was easier to follow the pattern lines than to redraft them.

There is an error in this pattern. It shows the ties attached to the side seams. That is incorrect. The ties are attached at each end of the waistband and don't need to be inserted until after the waistband is attached to the skirt.

Next, I tried McCalls 7862, using a black "tie-dye" print from JoAnn, 100% lyocell "Tencel Denim". The cost for 2 yards was $33.58. (I bought another 1/2 yard in Santa Fe for $7.20 but did not need it to cut out this dress.) The fabric was listed as 52" wide but measured closer to 60" wide. The care instructions are machine wash cold, line dry, cool iron. It does ok in the dryer but does pucker under a more than warm iron.

I cut a size 16, moving the darts lower after viewing a Craftsy class on muslins. The fabric is very nice, stays basically as I bought it, smooth, with a little drape and a bit of body. It works well in this swingy type of shape. The sleeves are large so they stick out in this fabric. Overall, with the print and the way it stands out from the body, this dress looks a bit like a caftan.

However, after wearing this dress a few times, I found the neckline was too high in front. That was especially disappointing because fitting the neckline band to the dress was really difficult. The hem construction is similar, very difficult to fit together. Additionally, the back neckline slit is too long and gapes open. To address these problems, I removed the neckband, sewed up the back slit, then bound the neckline with bias binding that I stitched on and turned to the wrong side.

The photo above was taken before this alteration. Since then, I have worn and washed the dress several times. The fabric is puckering and the dress looks disheveled. The altered neckline is still uncomfortable. I doubt that I will use the pattern again.

McCalls 8092 is a pattern I purchased because I was hoping to use an Indian block print on cotton. Before I dared to invest in this lovely piece, I wanted to have a pattern that I felt suited it. A quick trip to the pattern counter was all I could manage, simple patterns were all I was attempting. This resulted in my choosing an off-the-shoulder dress that I hoped I could modify to a standard gathered neckline. Thus began the toile.

JoAnn Fabrics sells several lines of fabric by the name "linen". Some of these are 100% linen, some are linen blends with varying (15% to 85%) amounts of linen, and some have the appearance of linen. One of these is actually 70% polyester and 30% rayon, and is called "linen look". The cut of fabric I purchased last Spring was a beautiful golden brown, almost an ochre. It was listed on my receipt as Anhu(?) Tobacco Potting Soil linen, 52" wide, 2 1/2 yards at $15.39/yd. for a total of $38.48 (012993046). Although that price is a little more than I have been paying for fabric for a first try of a pattern, I thought I was buying 100% linen in one of my favorite colors, a golden brown that is between brown and ochre. Whether it is linen or not is a guess. After washing, it remained quite stiff but thin and a bit sheer. Some of it went for the back side of the two pockets in a skirt. The rest served as the muslin for this pattern.

This dress plus the belt takes over 5 yards of 60" fabric. With less than 2 1/2 yards in this narrower piece, there was not even enough for the dress in the size L. After the substitution of a short raglan sleeve from McCalls 7862, there was enough for pockets and the ruffle at the hem. That meant shortening the dress to the view A length (plus 1" because there was enough fabric and, for me, longer is better). Beside the sleeve substitution, the neckline is 1" higher to allow for the neckline to fall normally around the neck rather than the off the shoulder look of the pattern design. The hemline ruffle is cute, and the dress is a good length, but there is entirely too much fabric in the top of the dress and the sleeves.

After a run through the washer and hanging to dry, it is definitely a wearable toile. I doubt that it is wearable outside the house--even a belt does not improve it much. However, it tops out the cool and comfortable scale and is either a very nice nightgown or an at-home dress. It gets worn now and then, notably on trips when I want something comfortable to wear in the hotel room.

The second version of this pattern was inspired by a ready-to-wear dress by designer Anna Mason. It took some inspiration to move me to make this again. This one uses some quite nice batik print in a cotton that is lightweight, more like a poplin than a quilting cotton. It is an ombre print, meaning the colors (tones in this case, since it is all gray) get progressively darker from one selvedge to the other. There was 3 1/2 yards for $12.99/yd., 30% off, so about $30. Because of the color progress across the grain, I cut the fabric cross-grain, using view A again, with an inch added at the top and the bottom of the body pieces. There was enough fabric for the pattern sleeves, cut to the middle length as well as added pockets from McCalls 7862, as in the first version, and a longer ruffle. The front was cut into two pieces at the fold line to allow a seam that created a v-neck, as in the dress that inspired my second attempt:

To allow for the edging around the neckline, the shoulders should have been raised by more than the 3" I allowed.  As far as my version of this dress, the sleeves came out nice, the sizing looks good. I even made a simple belt rather than the belt that is part of this pattern. After that, there was not enough fabric left to cut the bottom ruffle in the darker part of the print. So I ordered more fabric. It was on sale at Hobby Lobby for $9/yard. Cutting a 3 yard strip 18" deep along the edge produced the piece for the bottom tier.

This dress falls in an awkward in-between, in between light fabric that would be cool enough to wear in warm weather and heavy fabric that would make the length right for colder weather; in between casual at-home wear and less casual going out wear. I haven't worn it much. As a result, I have not attempted to make this pattern in the precious block-printed voile but have selected another pattern for that piece.

Erin's Day Dreams Sweater

I had planned to knit an Erin Cardigan from Vintage Modern Knits, but I just could not work up enough interest in the design. That was especially troubling since I had bought the specific yarn required by the pattern, a blend of wool, cotton, linen, flax and soy silk from one of my favorite yarn companies, The Fibre Company, in one of favorite shades of my favorite color, green. I have knit a sweater from the book before and thus was familiar with the lovely cable patterns. Maybe too familar and thus disinterested? Then I remembered that I have long wanted to knit a Day Dreams sweater from an old issue of Cast On. It is knit in green dk weight cotton. Erin is knit in a sport weight. Combining the two patterns, with the challenges entailed, increased my interest enough to result in a cast on on New Year's Day.

Although it would have fit better in the small size, the medium was a safer choice, with the loose slouchy look that is more on trend. However, the design of the small size, featuring ribbing around the armholes, was much nicer than the additional cables the larger sizes required. To achieve a similar look in the medium size, I changed the cable pattern, keeping the double ribs and adding two more ribs by decreasing the cable away. Four ribs total was probably too many, or maybe the loose fabric around the arms is due to the yarn. The general rule is that an oversize sweater needs tighter sleeves. Since I did not modify the armholes and the sleeves to allow for that, this sweater has both oversize sleeves and oversize body. The sleeves could be shorter, the body longer. Since there's a skein of yarn left over, I can change that. But I am happy with it, glad it is a pullover, glad the cotton content makes it a comfortable fall wear. The color is nice, the cables of the Erin design and the Day Dream design work well together.

I am wearing it with one of the fold-over waist skirts I made last winter. I blogged this skirt design earlier, minus the following details. The skirt used 1 yard of Robert Kaufman cotton fleece in cedar (deep green). That fabric came from The Confident Stitch in Montana, for $12. Although it is listed as french terry fleece, it is more fleece than terry. Combined with 3/4 yard of olive green ribbed knit from Hobby Lobby. It did not take the full 3/4 yard--some of the ribbed knit was used for pocket fronts for another skirt. The ribbed knit is like all the other from HL, in poly, total $4. The drawstring is some cute cotton twill tape with bees on it from Hobby Lobby. It is a great skirt for the cooling Fall weather.

McCalls 8055 and McCalls 8085

I consider this my special occasion contingency outfit. A little dressy, but comfy enough for casual wear. After looking everywhere for a mauve python print knit fabric like the one I saw a Craftsy instructor display, I settled and ordered a similar fabric from JoAnn. Hers was a scuba knit, this one is a jersey that is 90% viscose, 10% spandex and 57" wide. I got 2 yards from for $13.58. Using the long a-line skirt view from McCalls 8055, I replaced the pattern's simple elasticized waistband with my successful fold-over waistband mod, using a ribbed gray rayon/poly/lycra knit from Fabric Mart. Although the slanted pockets I designed with that waistband worked well on the slim skirts, simple side-seam pockets were enough in this A-line skirt. Note to self: the pockets sit a little low; raise them if you repeat this make.

For the top, there was 4 yards of Matte Black 100% cotton Tissue Jersey Knit 44" wide, also from Fabric Mart for a total of $12. Since this top, cut from McCall's 8085, used less than half of that, fabric cost is only $6. That's good, because this fabric was badly biased and would not pull straight. I am not sure I can cut from it again. It is heavier than what I would consider tissue weight fabric, with a rough texture prior to washing. However, after a couple of wears and washes, it feels smooth. If this style stays in fashion, repeating this make would be a good thing. In fact, another shirt from the rest of this fabric would be a good thing. Perhaps washing the remaining fabric would shrink and straighten it.

The dress pattern was modified to make the top, adding the sleeve ruffle I used when I first made the dress and shortening the bodice by a couple of inches before adding a hem ruffle. The neckline is a bit too wide and does not stay in place well. A neckband would be a nice addition to this pattern.

ETA: I have merged here a post about another skirt in this pattern, one of the shorter flared versions. This one was sewn in May, 2021 after I had finished a bleached denim dress from the New Look 6458 pattern. Since the fabric was exceptionally heavy and comfortable (a rayon blend) for a jersey knit fabric, I bought a skirt pattern for it on Hobby Lobby's $2 pattern sale, McCalls 8055. There was enough fabric left over for the slim skirt but I had my heart set on the flared one. There was just enough for the shortest version of the flared skirt, barely, a 19" length, in a size 18, reversing the nap for the back. There is a little shading in this knit, but the variation in the print hides it.

Apparently, I cut the wrong length for the front, the 23" length, and then cut the correct length in the back. The next morning, although the difference in lengths was obvious, I decided to re-cut the pieces to allow a longer length. With a yoke across the top of the back, trimming the size 18 down to a 10, and piecing the waistband, it became a wearable skirt in spite of the error. The pattern itself is simple and the visible hem on my S3 looks great.  Otherwise, I used a knit stitch for the seams and a knit zig zag for the edgings.  I used the edge stitch that comes after the standard over edge stitch for top stitching the yoke seam in the back. Not perfect for that purpose, but ok. This is where a serger or coverstitch machine would come in handy, but if I cut patterns correctly, I won't need one for this pattern. I just need a nice medium weight knit, 1 1/2 yards of 60" would be more than enough.

This is the front

This is the back, with yoke

There are just small scraps left of this fabric, so I am allotting the rest of the purchase price to the skirt, $6. I have actually worn this skirt quite often during the summer.

ETA: Wrong pattern numbers, sorry!  I am reworking the black top and found my mistake in the pattern numbers here.  Corrected now, in 2025.  

Drafting Simple Sewing Patterns

How to: Watch a couple of online classes on pattern drafting, select cute, inexpensive fabrics and keep it simple. If the pattern is complicated, you will better balance reward and effort by finding a commercial pattern that has the elements you want.

The first pattern I drafted was based on the Craftsy class on making a custom A-line skirt. A pocket is on the right side. The zipper is on the left. Two darts each for front and back were copied from the slim skirt pattern, Simplicity 8192. A second pair of darts in the back is an option. If I make both the front and back larger (see comment in next paragraph about front), I can use both darts. Bias binding was used to finish the waist on the inside. The back and front are sewn together with 5/8" seam allowances. Since the skirt was a little too small, I reduced the right side seam allowance to 3/8". Still, there was not quite enough room.

Once I sewed bias binding on an inch into the waist to make it a little bigger, the fit was good. (Since the side seams taper outward, lowering the waist made it larger. The next one will need extra fabric at the front, using this one to alter the pattern. The bias binding was wide enough to put 1/4" elastic through it. That made a better fit for the waist and a more comfortable skirt. The hem was 2 1/2" deep, so the next one could be shorter if there is not enough fabric.

It is very cute, and the fit is good after the extra adjustments. After washing and wearing, it has stretched out and is comfortable, but baggy in the back. A more form-fitting one in the back might be more flattering, but it might not work well for sitting. This is, after all, an a-line skirt, not meant to fit below the hip curve.

The fabric is quilting cotton from JoAnn, 42" wide, 2 yards, $10, purchased for the circle skirt pattern but not enough. (The pattern envelope for the circle skirt lists 2 yards of 45" fabric as required for View A, the shortest option. However, what with the width being 3" narrower and the fact that the shortest option is very short, getting that pattern out of this length of fabric did not seem possible.) Although the print is very cute, the quality of this fabric is not great. The finish is soft without the sheen of the quilting cotton I bought at Taos Quilting. There's only so much one can judge from online photos. Another version would require either 2 yards of a narrow cotton or less of wider fabric.

The second self-drafted pattern was simpler to design but more difficult to sew. Cut, sew, gather eternally. That is my memory of the maxi skirt I threw together from thrifted fabric. The cutting was quick and easy, just measure and cut without a pattern. The sewing was simple, the tiers are stitched together at the sides to make loops of fabric and the top tier gets a folded-over band for elastic. The gathering, which required sewing the long bottom loops three times each, twice for gathering and once for seaming, exhausted my patience.

A second version would need a little change to the pieces if I want to add pockets. I found good consistent instructions across several websites -- it is reassuring when you see the same thing more than once. The first tier should be 1.5 times the waist measurement, the second 2 times the waist and the third 2.7 times the waist. But the length of each tier was less consistent. I went with what I considered most flattering, the first tier ending at my low hip, the second just above my knee and the third at my ankle. It looks ok, but the first tier is too short for side seam pockets.

This is a "boho" look skirt. As such, it suits me better than most of my makes, reviving those hippie days. The fabric is embroidered, tuck stitched and tie dyed a bright turquoise and indigo. I paid $10 for the entire piece and there is a little left. I made both these skirts last summer and have worn them frequently.

Harvest Top and Alberta Skirt

Now that hot weather is here, the knit fabrics are packed away and wovens are back out. The change is a welcome relief. As comfortable and easy to fit as knits are, they are more difficult to handle, even with all the modern tools to help manage the stretch. Woven fabrics are much easier to cut. The sewing goes faster, without the need for a walking foot or zig-zag stitches.

The transition sparked the addition of new fabrics and patterns, providing a reason to write about these new makes. However, with easy successes, there is no longer a need for detailed notes on each project. I think, I hope, I can now replicate these garments by just following the simple steps as I remember them.

The first woven item was the promised third version of the Alberta Street Skirt, in a stretch cotton twill, 1 3/4 yards of black stretch denim that looks dark blue (52" wide, 98% cotton, 2% spandex, made in China, HL $17.83). The size 12 was a good fit, just needing an additional 1/4" at the top of the yoke-style waistband. That meant a 3/8" seam at each side instead of 5/8". There were no modifications to the pattern since I have found the reversed-angle pockets more comfortable as I have gotten used to them. This version was so easy and is a comfortable, flattering and basic addition to my closet. Folliowing it with a jeans-like version in a stretch denim with contrast top stitching is a possiblity.

PDF patterns have challenged my comfort level as well, but finding a printer who can handle the large size prints has helped. Still, it doesn't take too long to tape together the letter-size prints, which are the cheapest option. The Harvest (or Boxy) Top by Project Runway for Peppermint Magazine worked out perfectly for a mere yard of fabric I received by mistake in an on line order. Even though it requires nearly two yards, a size 40, shortened by a couple of inches and with the middle sections cut crosswise, fit on the fabric because I used a cotton/poly blend for the facings. The fashion fabric is a nice cotton/poly voile stripe in black and earth tones that I purchased from Fabric Mart.

There were buttons in the button box, purchased for a sweater but never used because I found ones I like better for the sweater.

I worried that the buttons in the back might be uncomfortable when I am sitting, but so far they have not bothered me. I found the pattern easy to construct, but I did change the attachment of the bottom band by enclosing the seam within it. Otherwise it was all according to the instructions.

McCalls 8248 and 8085, Sewing Failure, Sewing Success

For 8248, a pleated skirt with a tapered waistband. This is View B, the knee length version. The print in the fabric runs horizontally, forcing me to cut it crosswise to get more flattering vertical stripes, thereby limiting the length of the skirt. There are no options to this skirt pattern other than length and an optional ribbon embellishment. The fabric for this make was purchased on-line from Hobby Lobby--an odd acquisition for me since there is a Hobby Lobby a few miles away. However, I was obsessed with finding a python-print scuba knit fabric similar to the one I saw used for a skirt in a Craftsy class but could not find it in any store. The description of this fabric on the website was crepe scuba knit. Instead it is more of a satin, and a big disappointment in texture and appearance. However, for just $9 total there was 3 1/6 yards of a white and black python-print (snakeskin) 100% poly, 58" wide, crepe. Rather than toss it, it made a good muslin for this pattern that specifies crepe in the fabric choices.

Initially, the pleats were difficult, made more so by the fact that the print obscures most markings. Once the first piece was pleated, it all made more sense. The pleats are to be basted down the full length of the skirt, but just sewn down for the top 4 1/2". They are loose pleats, sewn together, but not topstitched down. Of course, the waistband holds them in the correct direction, folded to the center of the skirt front and back. After the skirt is assembled, before hemming, the basting is removed, allowing the pleats to unfold below the top sewn-in portion.

This pattern is not for me. The problems are three-fold: fabric, construction and style. The fabric recommendation is woven, no-stretch. The construction is difficult. The style looks like a cheerleader skirt. While it does have the tapered waistband I am hoping will fit me better than a standard waistband, there is no stretch to allow for all-day comfort.

The muslin is completed as far as the zipper, and that needs to be redone because it is placed a little too high. The pleating is misplaced in the front, taking up too much material and resulting in a smaller waistband than I find comfortable. If there is a second attempt at this, it should be in a different fabric, with the pleats replaced with gathers. The fabric is as bad as a shiny polyester can be. As far as any positive outcome, there is just the discovery that the smaller sizes do not require the specified 9" zipper--7" is long enough.

It took 10 days away from this sewing failure for me to try again. This time, I selected a 58" wide cotton/poly/lycra jersey fabric and a dress pattern, McCalls 8085. I did not order the fabric for this pattern. Rather, I had in mind the simple shift dress from New Look 6458 that I have made before. However, Fabric Mart sent me additional yardage. Since there was 2 1/2 yards of this cut (for $10.50), there was enough for a different pattern. However, the print on this fabric is directional. Once I decided to cut it with the print centered and pointing upward, the cutting became more complex. Of course, my cutting was not error-free. The sleeve was cut in the wrong direction and over a gap in the fabric. It was possible to cut another sleeve, but only one, meaning the sleeves have the print running in opposite directions. In the end, I used every inch of the fabric, which created a problem. I immediately noticed that the fabric piece had two small holes at one end. That is probably why they cut extra. I saw the holes, marked them to cut around them, then forgot them and cut the front bodice over the holes. Now, though tiny, they are near the center in the most visible piece.

Regarding the pattern, I cut a size L and shortened the bodice by 1 3/4". I also lowered the neck by at least an inch. The neck finish is simple, just turning it under and topstitching the hem. Although I much prefer the look of a neckband, in this jersey, the simple hem worked well, especially since I broke out my twin stitch needle, using it successfully for the first time. The walking foot helps a little in this fabric, but not a lot. In the end, I used the standard foot and a narrow zig zag stitch for most seams--quick and easy!

Notably, the shoulders fit perfectly, probably because I followed the instructions and stabilized them. Since I did not have bias binding, I used the selvedge from the crepe fabric to stabilize the shoulder seams. That worked very well. The waist is large and is intended to be elasticized. Doubting that pulling in the 40" waist with elastic would look good, I trimmed the seam. Now I wish I had tried the elastic because it would stabilize the waist seam. The pockets are easy, simple and functional. The skirt length v. ruffle is iffy. A shorter skirt and a longer ruffle would look better proportioned, with the bonus of the seam between skirt and ruffle not hitting my knee when I walk. I cut the shorter option for the sleeve and trimmed it to end above the elbow simply because 3/4 length sleeves usually do not fit my long arms. Once hemmed, though, the straight, elbow length sleeves looked strange on this design. Then I saw a dress in the Pact catalog and decided the sleeves needed a ruffle too.

Using a sleeve ruffle from another pattern as a guide, I cut a 6" deep, 26" long ruffle for the 12" sleeve. That was about as big as I could manage from the remaining fabric. It could have been less deep, as the other pattern, McCalls 7650, had a somewhat shorter sleeve ruffle (5") that was about 24" long.

My sleeve ruffle idea really improved the dress. Also, the holes have been patched and fray-checked.

Alberta Street Pencil Skirts

First version of this pattern by Sew House 7 uses a stretch cotton/lycra twill from Fabric Mart. This was a designer fabric in a deep brown with a wide pattern repeat of large circles. It was heavier and stiffer than I expected, leaving me uncertain as to how to use it. Thankfully, it made a good toile for this pattern, which is intended for a heavy, denim-like fabric. The only problem was matching the print. This pattern that only needs 1 1/2 yards for the size 14--a starting point. Negative ease is recommended, and there is about 30% stretch. While my initial goal was to match the patch pockets with the front, and the motifs across the back seam, I was relieved to get some of the yoke to match the skirt. There was extra in this cut, since they included the end of the bold. There was a little more than 3 yards when I ordered 2 for a total cost of $9. This skirt used all of it, with just scraps left after careful cutting to match the print.

The zipper installation was a simple process made simpler by using scotch tape instead of pins to baste the zipper in place, but I do need a zipper foot for my Janome to get a narrower seam around the zipper. That machine is new and does not yet have all the accessories. As a result, the zipper tape is just barely caught in the stitching. The wider placket looks good in this sturdy fabric but may need reinforcement later. Next were the side seams, in which all the fitting was accomplished. In sum, it is a 14 in the waist and upper hip and a 12 through the rest of the skirt, a silhouette that can be followed on the next cut for a better, quicker way to a good fit in this pattern. The facings and hem were simple, but made better by hand stitching all the facing and some of the hem. In another fabric, top stitching would work and would make a faster finish.

I really like this skirt. It will fit well in my wardrobe and is a perfect match for the cardigan sweater I knit last year. The fabric has a rough feel but is so stretchy it is comfortable for a tight skirt. The one drawback is that the print is easily marked up. The white fabric shows through when seams are unpicked. Luckily, I didn't have to do much unpicking. It will be interesting to see how it wears--I hope it develops a nice vintage patina. The only problem so far is the pocket shape. The opening slants down toward the center front and provides an awkward angle for my hands. The pockets are usable, but not something I would slip my hands into for a comfortable position.

Although I would like to try reversing the pockets, slanting the opening downward to the side seam, that modification will have to wait. My second version of this skirt was complicated by the fabric, a lightweight scuba knit from Hobby Lobby. It is a fairly nice fabric, with a dramatic combination of stretch, weight and drape. However, even though there was no indication that such a fabric was a good choice, it is obvious now even to stubborn me that this pattern was not intended for scuba knit. In fact, scuba knit may not be intended for my sewing projects. It was an experiment that convinced me that I would not be happy with any method to attach the patch pockets in that fabric. The topstitching was buried in the thickness of the fabric. Rather than give up the pockets, I converted them to side seam pockets. The top stitching was completely omitted for a smoother look. One big revelation was that a combination of a stretch fabric with the tapered waistband omits the need for a zipper! However, this one has a zipper. There was no trouble installing it with the appropriate (3/8" is specified in the instructions) placket width on each side because I was using my walking foot to avoid stretching the knit fabric. The sizing is smaller, mostly a size 12, tempting me to try a size 12 allover in a firmer stretch fabric to achieve the recommended negative ease for this skirt. Reversing the pocket shape would be a nice mod as well. There's no photo of the second skirt. It's rather blah and doesn't get much wear. Instead, I happily post another photo of the first one, a simple flat lay so ALL the dots are visible.

I can wear the cardigan with this shirt and the skirt, but would like another shirt to wear with it. Green? Teal? Oh, maybe just brown.