tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4923012798710015462024-03-18T11:10:53.605-07:003 Sleeves to the WindAdventures in the MakingSusan Lunihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17799333297406389634noreply@blogger.comBlogger63125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492301279871001546.post-68861099742955653162024-03-18T11:06:00.000-07:002024-03-18T11:09:57.955-07:00Florence Shirt in Crinkle Rayon<p>Finally, it was time to use the last of my precious fabric purchases, one that is notably made in Japan, a <i>Painterly Tracks</i> printed lightly crinkled rayon challis in light sage/gray sage/off-white. There wasn't much of this lovely fabric, just 2 yards that was 43" wide, from Fabrics and Fabrics at a cost of $26.60. After washing, it was moderately crinkled. Since it will have to be ironed flat to apply interfacing, it was ironed lightly before marking and cutting. From the beginning, this was intended to be used for a Florence shirt.</p><p><span style="background-color: white;">The Florence paper pattern came printed on heavy paper. Cutting it to cut out the pieces is hard on my cutters and makes it difficult to cut a larger size later. Some say it is intended for tracing, but tracing is not my usual method. In the end, only one pattern piece, the front, was traced off and altered. </span></p><p><span style="background-color: white;">Initially, since the wrong side of the fabric is white, the fabric was marked and cut out roughly. </span><span style="background-color: white;">The upper back was cut along the widest line, while the lower back was cut the full width of the fabric. These pieces were trimmed during the construction. The other pattern pieces were not altered as much and were cut to a slightly larger size than the first version. </span></p><p><span style="background-color: white;">There were two factors that shaped this haphazard approach. One, the sizing on this pattern is very fabric dependent. Two, if the edges are to be serged after sewing, my preference is for a wider seam allowance than the 3/8" set in this pattern. Now that it is done, this version has helped me to settle on a size X. If there is another version, the pattern can be cut to that size. </span></p><p><span style="background-color: white;">The pattern pieces were laid out to take advantage of the large print of the fabric. </span><span style="background-color: white;">The bottom front was marked at 14" wide, or 12 1/2" from the printed lines along the selvage edges, placing these lines along the fold line for the placket. The side seams were tapered outward. T</span>he back pieces were centered on the central design. Since the fronts were cut along the selvage, a stretch binding was sewn over the selvage. The binding looks cute and is similar to the treatment on the blue version of this pattern, where there is bias binding along the placket.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv6GttSOFpi8414iM-bhKnkdm-OnXlaa23TKikn_HtYs6lsBKDJYOdE1pz-qiXIaPDGj7Us8k5GJnCNMT_B3lekzUYQr6-Jcjywy6lZjupWtLheuVKv-_JYjwmOvqeqm193xPrEUtwV9M9r366FFTN5Gy__yL7yfmUb-6n6o1Td4aRZmbNZWNR8TwVT7CW/s2015/IMG_2801.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2015" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv6GttSOFpi8414iM-bhKnkdm-OnXlaa23TKikn_HtYs6lsBKDJYOdE1pz-qiXIaPDGj7Us8k5GJnCNMT_B3lekzUYQr6-Jcjywy6lZjupWtLheuVKv-_JYjwmOvqeqm193xPrEUtwV9M9r366FFTN5Gy__yL7yfmUb-6n6o1Td4aRZmbNZWNR8TwVT7CW/s320/IMG_2801.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />Here is a serged seam. It is sturdy, stretches slightly and looks nice even though the thread is white in the needles and off white on the loopers. This sample persuaded me to use the serger on a few seams.<div> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpRWYpy9XNxo-wzErFzEWxe4eSBI4K8FlBZR6QxWfuQtZbAdGYf-vDIMv-SfEUvAjxWBx-WiRgi5c3-_ugXD-Kc0Efd6BOEBYKULLYJRudXzr9ozje8DvM8I6bLB6ZDGsP8gUK4tXUjjv1cZadW3uu710_kfe1IFwe79-q308Jl1R9-GDIzMx3QNY3KIAh/s2016/IMG_2802.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpRWYpy9XNxo-wzErFzEWxe4eSBI4K8FlBZR6QxWfuQtZbAdGYf-vDIMv-SfEUvAjxWBx-WiRgi5c3-_ugXD-Kc0Efd6BOEBYKULLYJRudXzr9ozje8DvM8I6bLB6ZDGsP8gUK4tXUjjv1cZadW3uu710_kfe1IFwe79-q308Jl1R9-GDIzMx3QNY3KIAh/s320/IMG_2802.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />The stitches are quite tidy, with the pressure adjusted to the recommended position, the differential light (.5) and the tension on 3 for the needles and 4 for the loopers (this last is because of the thin fabric). <p></p><p>The pockets were cut out of scraps, matching the print on the pockets to the print on the front vertically. There wasn't enough fabric to match them horizontally. With this large-scale print, the only option was to use the long piece from the middle of the yardage that was left after cutting the two fronts along the selvage and a piece between the back yoke and the sleeve bands to cut two pockets and two linings. In this light fabric a two-layer pocket should hold its shape better than a single layer with an interfaced top.</p><p>In the photos below, the pocket placement is about 1/2" further away from the center front than the pattern indicates. That change was necessary to align the print vertically. If they are placed lower, the print aligns more horizontally and will be about where the pockets sit in the first version. However, the higher placement means that they sit more where a shirt pocket should sit. The pockets in the first version were lowered to expose the printed panel. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguHxhvvhCfPCRMIiXMUjKVa1uZovFXz6pCDFZ5w-7W1KjPhUTq-fQtbrL00IOSRAr24BXgMdc1YNgNSz0sqTgX_6a9zyQBGzH3KKUrs7q9urXZfodZ97Tofqd59yx4VuWGCGD0Vchs_NJscFKsVMXtoa7fSBWfdWfXKliwfPPovEbquystQF4TDILnX7ju/s2016/IMG_2803.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguHxhvvhCfPCRMIiXMUjKVa1uZovFXz6pCDFZ5w-7W1KjPhUTq-fQtbrL00IOSRAr24BXgMdc1YNgNSz0sqTgX_6a9zyQBGzH3KKUrs7q9urXZfodZ97Tofqd59yx4VuWGCGD0Vchs_NJscFKsVMXtoa7fSBWfdWfXKliwfPPovEbquystQF4TDILnX7ju/w300-h400/IMG_2803.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6qygPEMwZvgNYp9TDhJTVNb3u9rsS7O0Z9mbPg1txOjiZOEXwTujKePJuBToReyb-sSjHMJ5wRPugsxlxjgatTH7l-hXgYsqC5rCevXmGns574MDQE584SwmDnnJLNmEcbzhwNOroTqOjf47VXepPLUR1Vw68POaOtL5zdCzdBLXTJWqTc_RRyedzB_1-/s2016/IMG_2804.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6qygPEMwZvgNYp9TDhJTVNb3u9rsS7O0Z9mbPg1txOjiZOEXwTujKePJuBToReyb-sSjHMJ5wRPugsxlxjgatTH7l-hXgYsqC5rCevXmGns574MDQE584SwmDnnJLNmEcbzhwNOroTqOjf47VXepPLUR1Vw68POaOtL5zdCzdBLXTJWqTc_RRyedzB_1-/w300-h400/IMG_2804.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><p>Sewing the plackets down surprised me by how much the foldline was thrown off by the seam tape applied to the selvage edge. The foldline was in the middle of the interfacing. Fortunately, the interfacing is light enough to fold nicely. Two layers of interfaced fabric made a good weight for the button bands. </p><p>The back yoke seam was sewn on both the machine and the serger, with both seam allowances serged as one so that it could be pressed up towards the back yoke. Then the shoulder seams were sewn, pressed open and serged before attaching the collar. The collar was attached according to instructions. The collar is prepped by sewing a guide line along the fold line of the front, where the collar will be folded over prior to topstitching it to the shirt. This nicely helps the fold stay a consistent width but leaves the stitching visible on the edge of the collar. To satisfy my taste, this guide line had to be pulled out before topstitching. Even though the collar is placed over the seamline before topstitching, the seamline can still be seen in spots. It seems the traditional method of sewing the collar to the right side of the shirt and hand stitching the wrong side to the neckline seam produces a neater appearance. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy-VlMTi_seTRkXPGb8S0BSBZQYfFtpcEN2XrWWrOvcoA6KUJdauPfsfxZtT3Q2v_whgTox8bitxHaCSr9FW303gqV0uvzgSuSo6umbQAgLKJmRTIAHb6TSi9vpfizjlVj8hqA67BjDM_0woRsZxluH6iqRKSxdNfFqLgOEoWPfR9Pr3SBvICNcC66GzC9/s1959/IMG_2834.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1959" data-original-width="1469" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy-VlMTi_seTRkXPGb8S0BSBZQYfFtpcEN2XrWWrOvcoA6KUJdauPfsfxZtT3Q2v_whgTox8bitxHaCSr9FW303gqV0uvzgSuSo6umbQAgLKJmRTIAHb6TSi9vpfizjlVj8hqA67BjDM_0woRsZxluH6iqRKSxdNfFqLgOEoWPfR9Pr3SBvICNcC66GzC9/w480-h640/IMG_2834.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><p>Sleeve bands were cut from the scant remaining fabric, carefully, in order to place the vertical lines of the print along the edge of the band. Perfecting them meant changing the seam allowance on one to 3/16" to match it to the other that was sewn to the armhole with a 3/8" seam. Contrary to the pattern instructions, the bands were sewn to the armhole with it open, i.e. prior to sewing the side seams. Then the side seams were sewn through the band with the band opened out, flaring the seam out a bit at the edge of the band to allow it to turn under nicely. Next the bands were folded in over the seam line and machine basted in place. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzvq90J4MhhsIsqvPmo6wuXUDnkcrbdNctdPsuW18dnjdmUws2feYcP98CxOmcCBXKwDfmT3kB8QBTiUZcoCpM42D6sOYoOeyimFBmkA-EZlqgeJ4Ayq37cfV5uyD3LRl8C2re-LNoexiGWHxFFiAnTRC6i2zN9f8u066vPY_cDTSmjk3CSPaPI5wsxwkP/s1370/IMG_3006.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="1370" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzvq90J4MhhsIsqvPmo6wuXUDnkcrbdNctdPsuW18dnjdmUws2feYcP98CxOmcCBXKwDfmT3kB8QBTiUZcoCpM42D6sOYoOeyimFBmkA-EZlqgeJ4Ayq37cfV5uyD3LRl8C2re-LNoexiGWHxFFiAnTRC6i2zN9f8u066vPY_cDTSmjk3CSPaPI5wsxwkP/s320/IMG_3006.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />After stitching in the ditch to secure the bands and removing the basting, there was a little hand sewing to do on the inside. Probably hand sewing the entire band down would have been quicker. There's a lot of videos raving about stitching in the ditch, but it is too visible for me to be completely happy with it. It is tolerable here only because topstitching the band would also be acceptable. <p></p><p>Hemming was a creative endeavor. The fronts are a couple of inches longer than the pattern length and the back..the back hem shaping is simply the curve left after the yoke piece was cut. The hemline is blended into the front hem but the back is several inches longer than the pattern piece. The hem was turned under an inch and folded to a 5/8" hem that was topstitched down. It isn't like the hem of either the shirt or the dress, just somewhat similar to RTW shirts.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoENgMUnoSGSVnSWOqvJk8132-g_UPWaFTp3KKpwZt7S3CxhJnh7td9Ccx8mv4tVuBYbXTTyvFc0CmmPp_TNgRol4fkrp8O6YuaC9S3zAEEDgj8JV6ddDKXIhr-kVxR5vC3G0MLIXDRlLgjKzHASHK2cdN6xJO4zzKMSGjvhhzIcqLyHnlrfWTyvv9MMQp/s1280/IMG_3062.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="959" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoENgMUnoSGSVnSWOqvJk8132-g_UPWaFTp3KKpwZt7S3CxhJnh7td9Ccx8mv4tVuBYbXTTyvFc0CmmPp_TNgRol4fkrp8O6YuaC9S3zAEEDgj8JV6ddDKXIhr-kVxR5vC3G0MLIXDRlLgjKzHASHK2cdN6xJO4zzKMSGjvhhzIcqLyHnlrfWTyvv9MMQp/s320/IMG_3062.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><p>The button placement chart for the shirt has revealed itself. It is on the sleeve band piece. This pattern company is frugal with its paper. Since the shirt is longer, it could have taken more buttons. However, 7 is enough. There is no need for buttons on the bottom few inches of the shirt. Most likely, it will be worn as an overshirt and left unbuttoned. </p></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEQ_tgcu0DNFkKIyQpKhO3Y9a6cB80yLyj27gJ9WhkvXO6ZOvAnIYmqczWVGdRBqyfcJEQHXen98EZ3pj4QI5MU8cq1ZckHJNcxZ3EvH3k_wRRgZh_wh9DWmMyBaQqFFeOWU-4oztmMToiR1IsCWhyP2yi182cZ2E-3ivhOu89vzzbNKpt6_VgDUagLSq3/s1652/IMG_3061.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1652" data-original-width="1171" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEQ_tgcu0DNFkKIyQpKhO3Y9a6cB80yLyj27gJ9WhkvXO6ZOvAnIYmqczWVGdRBqyfcJEQHXen98EZ3pj4QI5MU8cq1ZckHJNcxZ3EvH3k_wRRgZh_wh9DWmMyBaQqFFeOWU-4oztmMToiR1IsCWhyP2yi182cZ2E-3ivhOu89vzzbNKpt6_VgDUagLSq3/w454-h640/IMG_3061.jpg" width="454" /></a></div><p>The back was made much larger with the expectation that once washed, this fabric will crinkle and draw in. It may then stretch back out with wear. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxMiYWigJJ7_F-xuw5Q3ndr_ljA2M2DGqhBFJbhxVfi44HJHkpfeHtb-Pg0CVW2ZgtKoH9b0Y_xvwW5SHq1vtsE3Za6xOopVX1-prlMc6giSmNe_Db_BO_xDSAR2ySVbR4dYEMf9s0X06WKt6TYrrPiJTBe56tWKqPDSo61csDE4jNoLH9BIMc3p27lTKM/s1461/IMG_2982.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1461" data-original-width="1282" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxMiYWigJJ7_F-xuw5Q3ndr_ljA2M2DGqhBFJbhxVfi44HJHkpfeHtb-Pg0CVW2ZgtKoH9b0Y_xvwW5SHq1vtsE3Za6xOopVX1-prlMc6giSmNe_Db_BO_xDSAR2ySVbR4dYEMf9s0X06WKt6TYrrPiJTBe56tWKqPDSo61csDE4jNoLH9BIMc3p27lTKM/w562-h640/IMG_2982.jpg" width="562" /></a></div><p>With this make, the Florence shirt pattern is adjusted to my liking. I love all the details, the back yoke, the mandarin-style collar, and the sleeve bands. I also like the simplicity of the cap or dolman sleeves. Although I am wearing it here with my new Lodo dress, it will look even nicer with my new black pants. This shirt took 10 days to make, just working on it a little each day, but not every day, during that time span. The next shirt I make will have set in sleeves, cuffs, and a full collar. I wonder how long that will take.</p></div>Susan Lunihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17799333297406389634noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492301279871001546.post-66351481995790490842024-03-09T11:16:00.000-08:002024-03-09T11:43:32.272-08:00Lodo Dress on Serger<p>This project used 1 1/2 yards Birch Fabrics interlock knit, 95% organic cotton, 5% spandex, 58" wide, purchased from The Confident Stitch for $32.85. The color is a beautiful sagebrush green and the cotton fabric is as smooth as silk, with 50% crosswise and 20% lengthwise stretch. Unlike silk, it can be machine washed cold and tumbled dry on low without worry. </p><p>My plan was to use the fabric to make another Lodo dress. Happily, the leftover rayon twill from my vintage dress project worked for the woven facings recommended by the pattern. Testing stitches on my serger and sewing machine proved that topstitching on the machine at 2.8 looked good. Serging looked good, once the differential feed was adjusted for this thick fabric. Stretch stitching is advised in the pattern. Twin needle stitching was also used in my first Lodo dress. The only problem with that dress is that the back slit ripped out, even though it was sewn with a stretch stitch. I tested twin needle stitching on my sewing machine but decided that it is not really necessary for the facings, since they are woven. Based on all this testing, here is the sewing plan I developed:</p><p><u>Serge the back seam, leaving a higher slit.</u> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPZ78MZxCAnmdFprEgKS_NiC53Y9K50RxAOV2fwgaRMIy6SAc4PmuMeXti9m1LU3saERkg4z7OcVLm4GSbA107Oty20F-v05ZlSmHMu_UVwK4CIGmotnyJKOtJhd6OH2IFjFcUYODwixvzRSC36Kp32bMnd2DSKCL_6IF93t2n2BMh_HleSa3jUKWmJvPI/s2016/IMG_2786.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPZ78MZxCAnmdFprEgKS_NiC53Y9K50RxAOV2fwgaRMIy6SAc4PmuMeXti9m1LU3saERkg4z7OcVLm4GSbA107Oty20F-v05ZlSmHMu_UVwK4CIGmotnyJKOtJhd6OH2IFjFcUYODwixvzRSC36Kp32bMnd2DSKCL_6IF93t2n2BMh_HleSa3jUKWmJvPI/w300-h400/IMG_2786.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><i>That didn't work. The top of the seam fed unevenly into serger and pulled a thread out of the fabric. Discouraged, I sewed the back seam on my sewing machine with a stretch stitch and walking foot. That was slow and stretched the seam out, causing the bumps in the seamline in the above photo.</i><div><u><br /></u></div><div><u>Reinforce the top of the slit with a woven facing, extending the slit.</u><i> That was time consuming but should resist ripping. (The right photo is the extension basted into place, the left is after stitching the slit.) This step should be replaced with a simple redesign of the back pattern piece, opening the back slit higher. </i></div><div><i><br /></i><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_R-FFkzs1qjf7NtVIsE9wKIfygKbm9DJd-0TBNaw3UUMgW6dtsh6C8XjTnzJLU8oTsY2Xn336Jf57Wi06ZBgKixsic7CnfcWvnO-1YK8QDwRu_AbP7QjMiPHNfn9LJTj3A7DNGxEEam-xmAYo3lmzpdqO1MVKwsZs4qQc-UAYxtX0_QMNKT-qS15qOmS4/s1280/IMG_2798.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="1163" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_R-FFkzs1qjf7NtVIsE9wKIfygKbm9DJd-0TBNaw3UUMgW6dtsh6C8XjTnzJLU8oTsY2Xn336Jf57Wi06ZBgKixsic7CnfcWvnO-1YK8QDwRu_AbP7QjMiPHNfn9LJTj3A7DNGxEEam-xmAYo3lmzpdqO1MVKwsZs4qQc-UAYxtX0_QMNKT-qS15qOmS4/w364-h400/IMG_2798.jpg" width="364" /></a></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwYf7dh_IPf2ZO8poEhosD1aexEJ_ySzf8U49AI8JWBuysuDKQZ6-bX-FB-8_BWFS9IAl85LI2s2YkmTMnuUAyS9Jsj1pI1k4iCH42Ty116x6_6zymYYGu4kxWKNiE38CVMctyduIV32sPfbL3XZD4fF02RJthsr7V85a693VE2eliBi-ZVuHnIebjRCRP/s2016/IMG_2787.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwYf7dh_IPf2ZO8poEhosD1aexEJ_ySzf8U49AI8JWBuysuDKQZ6-bX-FB-8_BWFS9IAl85LI2s2YkmTMnuUAyS9Jsj1pI1k4iCH42Ty116x6_6zymYYGu4kxWKNiE38CVMctyduIV32sPfbL3XZD4fF02RJthsr7V85a693VE2eliBi-ZVuHnIebjRCRP/w300-h400/IMG_2787.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><u>Serge the edge of the facings.</u> <i>That worked even though my serging needs more practice.</i> <u>Sew the neck facings on with a straight stitch. </u> <i>Worked well.</i> <u>Understitch the facings with a straight stitch.</u> <i>Fine, wobbly but worked. </i> </div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnldklRLT-O1kuOFtJWC4ntqcWqM5ZBWGBgfG1FfYmL3Ud1u1aG5DLCyfdLTYj3O-dwJdjYImA3SDh6sFr4KKroTWDnd_Af5s3hhyGZsvVoEoHEMoEB_QE1IFM7K4mJclEdjD_y0TY0xVvuAAe9d4UzcZeHrrqMLHAU_Joi91mKxZNPmrnb7PYAW6FSxvl/s2016/IMG_2785.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnldklRLT-O1kuOFtJWC4ntqcWqM5ZBWGBgfG1FfYmL3Ud1u1aG5DLCyfdLTYj3O-dwJdjYImA3SDh6sFr4KKroTWDnd_Af5s3hhyGZsvVoEoHEMoEB_QE1IFM7K4mJclEdjD_y0TY0xVvuAAe9d4UzcZeHrrqMLHAU_Joi91mKxZNPmrnb7PYAW6FSxvl/s320/IMG_2785.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><u>Serge the shoulder</u><u> seam, seaming through the facings.</u> <i> To avoid the difficulty that prevented me from serging the back seam, the shoulder seams were basted together on the machine first at 5/8", allowing me to serge at 3/8".</i> <i> This worked well.</i> <i>In retrospect, basting where the seamlines meet is probably all I need to avoid the fabric feeding unevenly into the serger.</i> <u> Sew the armhole facings and understitch.</u> There is no photo of my uneven understitching here. It is such slippery material, that rayon twill. The serged edge of the neck facing is visible in the photo below.</div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6IsWIdPRIvocJEF3-vAEse5ZiJ2hlRiDaeyiP0IDqOkr10s2kuuCHjrT3hA7KExlVt67QZmqyeBHr0WIl8KVrAvIMK5Q_FE5buvkX8Fbwl7tKekWJPauJ8VBphDqkVUyw099vyz8DzEvu3D1EAscYVQSb1k1RbxHqHmMNnhSxJnQ2pJvwfSFmbJIyBtrf/s2016/IMG_2788.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6IsWIdPRIvocJEF3-vAEse5ZiJ2hlRiDaeyiP0IDqOkr10s2kuuCHjrT3hA7KExlVt67QZmqyeBHr0WIl8KVrAvIMK5Q_FE5buvkX8Fbwl7tKekWJPauJ8VBphDqkVUyw099vyz8DzEvu3D1EAscYVQSb1k1RbxHqHmMNnhSxJnQ2pJvwfSFmbJIyBtrf/s320/IMG_2788.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><u>Serge the side seams.</u> <i>Actually, stitch the armhole at the start then serge because serging that begins somewhere other than the edge of the seam is a little more difficult. Starting the side seam at the armhole would remove some of the facing unless the knife is disengaged. Except for the failure to make the sewing line and the serging line meet, the side seams look good. A few stitches on the sewing machine brought the serged seam and the sewn seam together. Although the ends of the long side seam stretched out, they were turned under for the hem and don't show.</i> </div><div><u><br /></u></div><div><u>Turn the facings to the inside and top stitch.</u> <i>Worked fine, simple sewing, see above photo.</i> </div><div><u><br /></u></div><div><u> Sew the back slit down and hem with a twin needle stitch.</u><i> Other than the usual tension questions the twin needle raises because there is a choice to be made between smooth stitches with loose bobbin thread and tunneling with tight bobbin thread, this worked passably well. There were 2 skipped stitches. :/ Be warned, any problems with twin needles motivates me to get a coverstitch machine next.</i></div><div><i><br /></i></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO3a9HpBW2UpgtTsG93CrIgNq9hHg0Wbm8Bmq_1-wwO5k2Q7Z06pNj4I2oRvN3knaEFvNk3RwKOMKsVN1Tr_Gt3IQZ-l2mlQdg6g7kXrAaIVacX14FJFPDp-CQABswcqIsVdVRh-PJcURBLNgoCSb-X8PlDw7JlX4Gie4o01kuyuScTYz1Up6U5ySNvRh1/s4032/IMG_2796.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO3a9HpBW2UpgtTsG93CrIgNq9hHg0Wbm8Bmq_1-wwO5k2Q7Z06pNj4I2oRvN3knaEFvNk3RwKOMKsVN1Tr_Gt3IQZ-l2mlQdg6g7kXrAaIVacX14FJFPDp-CQABswcqIsVdVRh-PJcURBLNgoCSb-X8PlDw7JlX4Gie4o01kuyuScTYz1Up6U5ySNvRh1/w480-h640/IMG_2796.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><i><br /></i></div><div>All done and the construction is acceptable. I am going to love this dress for the fabric alone. It is about 4-6" longer than I would normally make it but I will enjoy every inch of it. I will hold off posting the modeled photo until I finish my next project, a shirt that might be worn with it, made from the pretty rayon print draped over the dress in the photo above.</div><div><br /></div><div>These detailed notes will help me remember how to approach my next sewing project. Combining the features of my sewing machine and my serger in the most efficient manner is the goal. Perhaps it may encourage serger use. At the end of this project, the thread on the loopers was low, providing a reason for me to try changing the thread the easy way. As I had seen online, and as is detailed in the instruction manual for my serger, I just tied the new thread to the old using a "magic" knot (though any tight knot will do) and pulled the new ones through the machine. These loopers don't seem to have an eye to thread like the needles do, so the knot pulled through smoothly. </div><div><br /></div><div>It is all proof that one can buy a serger, use it, change the thread, clean it, etc. without any instruction. At this point, serger availability has increased (there was a supply problem after the pandemic) and prices have dropped, making it possible for the average sewist to have one. They are very helpful in seaming knits and checking fraying.<p></p></div>Susan Lunihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17799333297406389634noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492301279871001546.post-66238368248036754892024-03-02T11:14:00.000-08:002024-03-02T13:52:10.526-08:00Dolman Top, Vogue 8952, Serged<p>You read that right, I now have a serger. It is a starter model, the same brand as my sewing machine. It came threaded. That is a real game changer, making it possible to start playing with it right out of the box, seeing how it meets my needs. One last cool-weather project was next up, a knit top. Since it is dolman sleeved, meaning the sleeve and body cut as one, it required only 4 seams. With no sleeves to set in, it was a good project for a first time serging. </p><p>The first step was to prepare my sewing machine for the hemming, the only task it actually had to do. With a stretch twin needle, a walking foot, and the tension and foot pressure both set to three, the test looked good. This is a thick pointelle knit that is prone to tunneling with a twin needle. There was 1.8 yards left at the end of the bolt, meaning I got both 30% off the nearly 2 yard piece and a further reduction on the fraction of a yard for a total of nearly $20. (The fabric was $20 per yard originally--pretty expensive for JoAnn's.) However, it is a soft cotton knit in a great spring color and thus worth the price. </p><p>The layout for cutting was tricky. The combination of the dolman-sleeved pattern, which has the body and sleeve as one large piece, and the fabric, with an obvious textured stripe to match, left only scraps. They are large scraps, but are so oddly shaped that they may not be useful. This was definitely not a zero waste project.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3oHG1abSXiQ6WISMd2P44xPvu9vUAzSSJ5_C1eLXfPuF_bBfz0woAEJSnwG6G1D_zTH5mBjungL5JKx8ZtVztrviWvWlxCavILsR4KvnnfbeEHC4nhm_3Xms7uixN9oHZbxaAmxtoS71nN5P4PMooJQj44mzQkEssjSKLY3g7KuvQXbT0T_2GTPP3rPrq/s1603/IMG_2765.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1603" data-original-width="1202" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3oHG1abSXiQ6WISMd2P44xPvu9vUAzSSJ5_C1eLXfPuF_bBfz0woAEJSnwG6G1D_zTH5mBjungL5JKx8ZtVztrviWvWlxCavILsR4KvnnfbeEHC4nhm_3Xms7uixN9oHZbxaAmxtoS71nN5P4PMooJQj44mzQkEssjSKLY3g7KuvQXbT0T_2GTPP3rPrq/w480-h640/IMG_2765.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br />After serging the front and back seams, I became cautious and serged the shoulder and side seams with a smaller seam allowance to allow for resewing or reserging. This initial construction resulted in a neckline that was too wide and low. Adjustments included taking in about an inch in the front seam at the neck and the same at the shoulders, adding seam tape made from selvedge at the shoulders, and recutting the sides and hem to reduce the flare and length of the back skirt. After serging all these adjustments, the bottom and sleeves were hemmed on my sewing machine. <div><br /></div><div>Since the neckline was still low, wide and loose, I opted to add a neckband by sewing it on the machine with a knit zigzag stitch and hand sewing it to the wrong side. Honestly, I had it set up to attach the neckband on the serger, had it under the presser foot ready to go, and decided against it. Since there is a back seam, there would have been seven layers of the thick knit fabric at that point. That would have been way too much fabric to pass under the presser foot. In a thinner fabric with no back neck seam, serging the neckband on would work.<div><br /></div><div>Now that this top is completed, the pattern's fate is uncertain. It looks good from the front, but even in a smaller size the back skirt would be too much. It doesn't flare out as much as it first did before my modifications, and it is about six inches shorter overall than it would be for the size medium. Still, there is a lot of excess fabric in the back. </div><div><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqgNGfZ-v0SPXYSZnC8atuh61vIuirp4TQ8fqM4YoWdX-6HtmZwRkb-44V2E3Y-asULLh2T7U7tqBBM33flCmmJIftLLu_4629S3W2gHLBosVp_uWG7WjsBBFnql27F96euHao97fFrpsQcUpx88N4tCq3YDO6lvZL29fT7pw0iVgL-KsN9NFT89EDLaFP/s1494/IMG_2639.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1494" data-original-width="1391" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqgNGfZ-v0SPXYSZnC8atuh61vIuirp4TQ8fqM4YoWdX-6HtmZwRkb-44V2E3Y-asULLh2T7U7tqBBM33flCmmJIftLLu_4629S3W2gHLBosVp_uWG7WjsBBFnql27F96euHao97fFrpsQcUpx88N4tCq3YDO6lvZL29fT7pw0iVgL-KsN9NFT89EDLaFP/w373-h400/IMG_2639.jpg" width="373" /></a></div><br />The drape is nice, but it is a bit more than I need. The dolman sleeves present other issues. They eat fabric and are bulky under the arms. But now that it is completed, it has made me realize that I have a couple of printed skirts that look good with it, not to mention the usual blue jeans and maybe my new black pants. Now that I have that serger going, here comes the rest of my Spring green wardrobe.</div></div>Susan Lunihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17799333297406389634noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492301279871001546.post-76627764784097205292024-02-24T09:00:00.000-08:002024-02-24T09:13:35.673-08:00THAT OLD Sewing Pattern, McCalls 8246 from 1950<p>My motivation for sewing up a version of a sewing pattern that is older than me is weak today. However, the prospect of removing some equally (not really) old fabric from my stash is encouraging. The pattern is written for some type of fabric that was made back then. The equivalent of it doesn't seem to be available now, but it can be approximated. It is simply a tubular piece. With the addition of one seam, this fabric should suffice:</p><p>Two yards of olive green Lyocell purchased a couple of years ago from JoAnns for $9.84. This may be 90% lyocell, 10% rayon, since there was another listing on their website that seemed similar. It has a twill finish and should be washed cold and hung to dry. Luckily, there was a remnant of the same, amounting to 3/4 yard for $1.84. The total cost is $11.68. There is a button from old button stash, dating back to the same era as the pattern, and recently purchased cotton batting for the shoulder pads. It is nice that the pattern includes the pieces to construct the shoulder pads.</p><p>Cutting was a bit difficult. Between the slippery fabric that is not quite on grain, the sturdy twill that fought the rotary cutter, and the multiple notches, (when cut outward--my preference), each piece is a slow process. It is amusing that the notches for the shoulder pads are proportionally smaller since the seam allowance is only 1/4". The tiny notches, so "twee", make these pieces look like parts of doll clothes. </p><p>After <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A1zKz7XCts0" target="_blank">Stephanie's exhortations</a> to trace vintage patterns, I feel a bit guilty about cutting. However, since this is a one-size pattern, the cutting does little harm since both cutting lines are preserved. After all, if a sewist is using a rotary cutter, having each piece cut out is a time saver. The only loss is the word "Margin" or "Margen" that is printed outside the pattern pieces. That term is superfluous in my opinion, especially since it gets cut away.</p><p>Sewing began with the body, contrary to the instructions, which start with the yoke. The front and back tucks were sewn, the gathers placed and then the slit was bias bound. Applying bias binding around a short slit cut into the front was a bit tricky, but it is mostly machine sewn. Rather than hand sewing the wrong side as per instructions, this one was attached first on the wrong side and top stitched on the right side. A little hand sewing finished off the bottom turn after it was mitered in on the machine.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdTyvQ4YDLqavFRrXUNv3cLqMH6KRv7bYqlcp4fWUzAU8F339T0qXzpChiCX1n3JzrcFEa1NJ1QP0qLBlmmqwQYAcfcSGTR8Wqn6Z1cdNcVT9KbkOfgsuBTeI3XgIPCOaZR3IL8wksTAwLYs2pCc9dRwwqclIbND2QPjk1NCClFbwWQH9PS1Cvc960D_Os/s4032/IMG_1992.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdTyvQ4YDLqavFRrXUNv3cLqMH6KRv7bYqlcp4fWUzAU8F339T0qXzpChiCX1n3JzrcFEa1NJ1QP0qLBlmmqwQYAcfcSGTR8Wqn6Z1cdNcVT9KbkOfgsuBTeI3XgIPCOaZR3IL8wksTAwLYs2pCc9dRwwqclIbND2QPjk1NCClFbwWQH9PS1Cvc960D_Os/w300-h400/IMG_1992.jpeg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><p>Completing the yoke assembly uncovered an omission in the instructions. There is no mention of stay-stitching the neck prior to sewing the facing to it. Then, there is nothing about understitching the facing. The first is a problem, because forgetting to stay stitch is a repetitive habit for me. If the facing doesn't fit, it is usually because I did not stay stitch the neckline before pinning the facing to it. Understitching is second nature to me for some reason--never forgotten. Otherwise the assembly was per instructions, with the exception of an extra step of machine overcasting the raw facing edge. The instructions have you overcasting by hand. Since that doesn't fall within my limited hand-sewing experience, it was deemed inferior to machine in this instance. The other hand work, tacking the facing down, did fall within my experience. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMiLJf4R66aXz5Gwuz0SqxOeonAWEOd81ViWH10NhUjt7PSs-UynZOus9eeVihgqMa4EgQYjrivtS5Etc9gMMRDToEL2efct4nbMU85QDZUS8Olje-3t_nLo8-mYJrshgd7ih-ETHQot9NGaUYs6gKBlc7QFUPqH7CImwQrox-uIS9Ze5KIxtn3_TGyuuP/s1801/IMG_2007.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1063" data-original-width="1801" height="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMiLJf4R66aXz5Gwuz0SqxOeonAWEOd81ViWH10NhUjt7PSs-UynZOus9eeVihgqMa4EgQYjrivtS5Etc9gMMRDToEL2efct4nbMU85QDZUS8Olje-3t_nLo8-mYJrshgd7ih-ETHQot9NGaUYs6gKBlc7QFUPqH7CImwQrox-uIS9Ze5KIxtn3_TGyuuP/w400-h236/IMG_2007.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />Attaching the completed yoke to the body was simple, no difference in instructions from these to current practices--gather, sew, press, top stitch. There was a little hand sewing of the facings and it was done. The buttonhole was machine sewn. The instructions for a bound buttonhole are good but require cutting through the facing followed by hand or machine finishing. With the thin material, I opted for a machine sewn buttonhole for reinforcement.<p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIGT5pZWjX7usrrpM9jqnVnQ4QM9g5okl9aBHL9hxtLFsaaybuV2FV9DCV2p3Z0Mxlw-61-p1U10kkznQedeK7BnfJHaNjggSZmulEfxfrmsAu6_4VnJyRH0zQnukt_NOo52iVa72n_qo32RopizF8nRM0LsZQKHbmZQ9xi9YpwLYzylM0zABVEaxmcsL5/s1896/IMG_2006.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1896" data-original-width="1422" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIGT5pZWjX7usrrpM9jqnVnQ4QM9g5okl9aBHL9hxtLFsaaybuV2FV9DCV2p3Z0Mxlw-61-p1U10kkznQedeK7BnfJHaNjggSZmulEfxfrmsAu6_4VnJyRH0zQnukt_NOo52iVa72n_qo32RopizF8nRM0LsZQKHbmZQ9xi9YpwLYzylM0zABVEaxmcsL5/w300-h400/IMG_2006.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br />Now that the dress is assembled, pockets and sleeves are next. On trying it on, I noted that the yoke is too shallow. Higher smaller busts were the norm back in 1950. Also, the sleeve openings are tiny, only 6" deep. They have to be slashed at the lower corners, which will add a couple of inches. <p></p><p>The process confused me twice. First, I was unsure as to which direction the bias binding on the slit lies toward. It sits toward the sleeve on the right side and towards the center on the left side (the underside of the closure). Second, the pocket lining is sewn to the pocket, creating a seam line that will be on the wrong side of the pocket. Then the pocket is sewn together around all 4 edges, except for a gap at the bottom that is left open for turning. Instead, the lining could be the same size as the pocket. That would add a seam in place of the fold on the pocket top. The pocket and lining could be cut out of one long strip that is folded over to form the lining. This is something to consider on a second make. The pockets are stiffer than the dress. The instructions specify "lightweight hair canvas or cambric" for interfacing. Based on those specifications and the outcome using featherweight interfacing, sheerweight might be better for the pockets.</p><p>Obviously, this a toile. It costs less than $12, so in spite of the soft and luxurious feeling fabric, it could be another house dress. It might be fun to redesign this one, adjusting the fit (it is too wide), the neck (it is too high), the wonky closure that doesn't match the edges up neatly, and the stiffly interfaced pockets. It needs a special fabric that has drape, in a nice neutral. So for now, it should look as much like the envelope illustration as possible in order to try all the features of the pattern. Knowing what the pattern will produce is the first step in knowing how to change it.</p><p>Much of the reconstruction could be accomplished by adapting the pattern to a flat piece of fabric. The pattern was written for a tubular material in a way that avoids cutting and seaming what was knitted or woven together. As a result, the size of the tube is set. The front and back tucks seek to reduce it some, but it is still too big for most, especially in 1950. 52" is too big for me. Working with a separate back and front would make attaching the pockets much easier. The sleeve could be sewn to the dress prior to closing the side seams and the sleeve and side seam could be sewn in one continuous seam. Additionally, for looks and comfort the yoke should be a bit deeper, the neckline a bit lower, and the closure adjusted. Length would be much shorter probably, depending on whether it is worn with a belt or not. </p><p>Sleeves were an adventure. There are three darts at the elbows--tiny darts. Six dart seams later came the sleeve seams. The first one was French seamed. Unfortunately, the frayed edge showed through. Perhaps the rotary cutter I used made the fabric fray more, or in an effort to be precise, the seam allowance wasn't trimmed sufficiently. Either way, after hand trimming the second sleeve seam down to 1/8" or so, I realized that it was on the wrong side. French seams are first sewn on the right side, then on the wrong side, encapsulating the raw edge between the seams. Since the seam was already trimmed, rather than ripping it out, I overcast the seam allowance. At least it will let me compare the comfort of an overcast seam versus a French seam. After all, the difference won't be noticeable from the right side. In the end, my quickness in trimming a mis-sewn seam resulted in a difficulty in calculating where the actual seam should go after the trimming removed a portion of the seam allowance. After several reseamings, it finally fit the cuff.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBsMtqY0Y8Q1gxrssI8dwKdKTTNFLGKkOKOdSTzdHCdV8D-BVtG5QRizNdg6bRoGcTl6miE7cg8_fOKiEbZUdPUODW3Yk1uZAyirKDNwEnpgITrztaFTQC5b-Olon4usz3nl5LJ1f29_KE2yu_mfAuaOOA_zx-mTHQliSocPh4SL3zyVe_1_RGqNqEZmzS/s2016/IMG_2173.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBsMtqY0Y8Q1gxrssI8dwKdKTTNFLGKkOKOdSTzdHCdV8D-BVtG5QRizNdg6bRoGcTl6miE7cg8_fOKiEbZUdPUODW3Yk1uZAyirKDNwEnpgITrztaFTQC5b-Olon4usz3nl5LJ1f29_KE2yu_mfAuaOOA_zx-mTHQliSocPh4SL3zyVe_1_RGqNqEZmzS/w300-h400/IMG_2173.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br />The sleeves I chose are finished with a facing at the bottom. The others have a zipper. The zippers would be so cute and practical in the narrow sleeves but this fabric is too soft to support a zipper. Maybe a zipper will be in the next version. Now the facings are in and under stitched. It is odd that the instructions specify under stitching when they don't for the neck facings. Maybe because the neck facings are hard to under stitch? The sleeve facings were hand sewn to the sleeve, per instructions.<p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDGEAp4OhnSIgYHaNTNTmdhdiqOlykjiN5iMkq9Y-aJp957szGwTxRZvZXp7a_ltWLRXyPDB7nxR2xx5v-bu5QfFxdtQZvCzKnkI_ThHuqmQJc-oa5wFyfAuPv6uyyEJGzH840iEOW6_CqYFt1S-OE_K_9RUa-k64eMY-_9UW2rnBXga3ssvz3IXECfbqJ/s2016/IMG_2174.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDGEAp4OhnSIgYHaNTNTmdhdiqOlykjiN5iMkq9Y-aJp957szGwTxRZvZXp7a_ltWLRXyPDB7nxR2xx5v-bu5QfFxdtQZvCzKnkI_ThHuqmQJc-oa5wFyfAuPv6uyyEJGzH840iEOW6_CqYFt1S-OE_K_9RUa-k64eMY-_9UW2rnBXga3ssvz3IXECfbqJ/w300-h400/IMG_2174.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br />The sleeve insertion was a little difficult. The sleeve was 2" longer than the armhole. However, as the pattern instructed, they fit evenly without easing once the bottom corners of the armholes are clipped, opening the armhole by another couple of inches. A little stay stitching provided some reassurance in the clipping. The slim sleeves provide a nice contrast to the oversized body. What they need is a shoulder pad, at least according to the pattern.<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIIIBgSd_Zgms7qSfDhiHnVKa_o9md9cftd3vbXqtLSXDJ6mLC9U6MDc4QezTns8zvTNsMmq-6q7V6OedBwfxsvFXP1MYUtVRpBt_NqwiXsvfgR_8jPqP1AOHSUuh34-6cYS0xFazPiGcXTxzqUOPO-07bGAr7pvpAC7vMuFaraBfoserVIHYcmZdBvYhM/s2016/sleeves.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIIIBgSd_Zgms7qSfDhiHnVKa_o9md9cftd3vbXqtLSXDJ6mLC9U6MDc4QezTns8zvTNsMmq-6q7V6OedBwfxsvFXP1MYUtVRpBt_NqwiXsvfgR_8jPqP1AOHSUuh34-6cYS0xFazPiGcXTxzqUOPO-07bGAr7pvpAC7vMuFaraBfoserVIHYcmZdBvYhM/w300-h400/sleeves.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div>The shoulder pad pattern pieces go together to form a pad that is 1 1/2" thick. That thickness would have made a shoulder pad that was too prominent for my taste. After altering the pattern pieces, the thickness was 1" fully plumped. It should reduce some with the weight of the dress. The pad consists of a layer of stiff linen (substituted for crinoline) and 6 layers of cotton batting. Since the cotton batting is only about 1/8" thick, there are more layers than the three specified in the pattern. The layers are all hand sewn together along the edges and the edges of the pad cover are overcast together. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizJg1716wJuKmVvZ7_n2VR9IomW7r4DrTpqTDqc8iLYll6JbeN9CPDCWnGEvuyD4OdalTYiz1-IZmJwa3R2FJKJ380RWwQYyhRrw0tS48wR6WdLunueHpig47gcR_6aqx1VjMRZyylhIhzuCVATU-ag6GqmFJkZi2kMBUh7KnhlDo9G7IEJ4P2H9GCNWUe/s640/IMG_2355.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="640" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizJg1716wJuKmVvZ7_n2VR9IomW7r4DrTpqTDqc8iLYll6JbeN9CPDCWnGEvuyD4OdalTYiz1-IZmJwa3R2FJKJ380RWwQYyhRrw0tS48wR6WdLunueHpig47gcR_6aqx1VjMRZyylhIhzuCVATU-ag6GqmFJkZi2kMBUh7KnhlDo9G7IEJ4P2H9GCNWUe/s320/IMG_2355.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div>The second one was done a little more neatly and much more quickly. They fit nicely. Even though they are not as thick as the pattern would have them to be, the shoulder pads make a noticeable difference in the appearance of the dress. However, shoulder pads, especially noticeable ones, are in style now, and not just on the fashion runways. They are on <a href="https://wornontv.net/420054/" target="_blank">television shows</a> and fashion sites. Will shoulder pads appear in everyday wear? They will when I wear this dress.</div><div><br /></div><div>It is blind hemmed on the machine, with a little hand sewing to neaten up the tucks. Not only was the dress cut 6 inches shorter, the hem was a bit deeper. The overall length is 41 1/2" from the very high back neck.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDl1dO5C55DzuKuT6OZ5hH9T9MxeniNTMyE7xlG_fJIVGtIDGWcSj-3g0nJYvFgKkgoVBC7oBDnulADpjLM8bRuhfwjtrwINt11WcARsMOhK7I1-IsNmVVP7hSdiWvETKJdUCeU-ZkClCJe9WUokGYnSoTWOx8cjdT5JxuuSA1uWQ_KuPuZFyA5xYCUvo0/s640/IMG_2594.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="471" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDl1dO5C55DzuKuT6OZ5hH9T9MxeniNTMyE7xlG_fJIVGtIDGWcSj-3g0nJYvFgKkgoVBC7oBDnulADpjLM8bRuhfwjtrwINt11WcARsMOhK7I1-IsNmVVP7hSdiWvETKJdUCeU-ZkClCJe9WUokGYnSoTWOx8cjdT5JxuuSA1uWQ_KuPuZFyA5xYCUvo0/w472-h640/IMG_2594.jpg" width="472" /></a></div><div><br /></div>The belt makes it true to the illustration on the pattern envelope. However, there is no matching belt, although there is enough material left over to make one. That's a project for the future, an iffy future. Truthfully, I will probably find it more comfortable without the belt.<div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbQbIXHsvWcBuQPfMQND0Rb9duVhWSL4kb5CaCH3raZXQWcARLBMqN-MGe3oITRgPrZ1f17It1Li1zR_3P7ysn2k5kVB8OsPvQ0H71AX8-CnEfQ87iXatQFcHfOWvU53AqDD2TUbfaRGjJdUSuzMHyJvTHeVXRYJ2-mIZCUUIN3gCLCc3HzP9XC6YQOH4R/s640/IMG_2592.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="528" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbQbIXHsvWcBuQPfMQND0Rb9duVhWSL4kb5CaCH3raZXQWcARLBMqN-MGe3oITRgPrZ1f17It1Li1zR_3P7ysn2k5kVB8OsPvQ0H71AX8-CnEfQ87iXatQFcHfOWvU53AqDD2TUbfaRGjJdUSuzMHyJvTHeVXRYJ2-mIZCUUIN3gCLCc3HzP9XC6YQOH4R/w528-h640/IMG_2592.jpg" width="528" /></a></div><br /><div>The future of the shoulder pads is iffy as well. They add something to the dress, but they tighten up the fit on the shoulders a little too much. It's not a bad look, those nice even strong shoulders.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbFzUKxuzvExMS9bhIkwDxkiQp-udnyKfZU7BTXHxLXSzZDfukNnre09v8j-9-nxftwJjGd1JG7twuQpi7i00ipo1o3Uzb1t7Yo5rh1Jbh-dRugsjkMI9ZeA4hENSmg8bCP3_QnUpfQGh4MtgRTalYcVhjF6-T6ZA_CAHxZHhPKSxMk4LNth_wuR7Fy410/s261/IMG_2572.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="138" data-original-width="261" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbFzUKxuzvExMS9bhIkwDxkiQp-udnyKfZU7BTXHxLXSzZDfukNnre09v8j-9-nxftwJjGd1JG7twuQpi7i00ipo1o3Uzb1t7Yo5rh1Jbh-dRugsjkMI9ZeA4hENSmg8bCP3_QnUpfQGh4MtgRTalYcVhjF6-T6ZA_CAHxZHhPKSxMk4LNth_wuR7Fy410/w400-h211/IMG_2572.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div>This is where I give them a shrug, hang the dress in my closet, and move on. This pattern stays in my collection for now. It will be fun to make some changes and try it again in a completely different fabric.<br /><div><br /><div><br /></div></div></div>Susan Lunihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17799333297406389634noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492301279871001546.post-77523566553953427892024-02-14T12:32:00.000-08:002024-02-14T13:00:03.002-08:00Leg Width in Simplicity 9272 Pants <p>Evaluating the utility of pants as part of my wardrobe pointed out a simple fact. Knit pants are more comfortable than woven pants. To further test the theory, another pair of knit pants was added to my closet. This was a quick project made from leftover black summer-weight ponte. There was just about a yard of the 60" wide fabric left after making the skirt. The skirt is quite comfortable, but doesn't have pockets. The pants do. The pockets in this pant pattern are small, practically half-pockets, but they are large enough for car keys or a tissue--the essential pocket uses--perhaps even a cell phone. The real advantage to the size is that the pockets do not sit over the middle of the front of the pants where they would disrupt the smooth fabric. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ7QRU63TL7FKLjhVSDBzC0XvLx8aBYHgnGzHqjaA85AoQ-So3vcRGt2uRi3U2Swzz0QKKcMsJOECcyMV6xUWCcT3Le96qitD7va4ibqvsDe4hJr9k7Ty9tnS9PbMoS-fy9GR4ZzgLpj4Epjwv2CRHKmXvBV60jxefex9s8Ufhh9nPzWrwUNrKY75zWJnQ/s3222/pantsb.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3222" data-original-width="2520" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ7QRU63TL7FKLjhVSDBzC0XvLx8aBYHgnGzHqjaA85AoQ-So3vcRGt2uRi3U2Swzz0QKKcMsJOECcyMV6xUWCcT3Le96qitD7va4ibqvsDe4hJr9k7Ty9tnS9PbMoS-fy9GR4ZzgLpj4Epjwv2CRHKmXvBV60jxefex9s8Ufhh9nPzWrwUNrKY75zWJnQ/w313-h400/pantsb.jpg" width="313" /></a></div><br />The pants have an elastic waist with a (optional for me) drawstring. The drawstring is very cute but would have required a trip to the store for eyelets, an eyelet tool, and black cord. Rather than interrupt the quick project, I omitted the drawstring. The only other outstanding characteristic of this pattern is the leg width. Some who have made this pant pattern have opted to taper the legs. Some have not.<p></p><p>Initially, I was shocked at how much volume there was in the legs. Then I checked other pants patterns and found a similar width, about 20". Now, my legs have no width to speak of. My body measurements are average, somewhere in the 12 to 16 size range, but my arms and legs are quite twiggy. For this reason, I wore pants, particularly pantsuits, almost exclusively during my career, mostly with straight legs. </p><p>During the years, pants legs have gone from wide to bell bottom to straight to form fitting and now seem to be going back to straight. Recently, pants for all occasions were influenced by athletic wear. In fact, the old sweat pants featuring wide legs gathered at the ankle have been replaced by form fitting legs, almost leggings, with a cuff. These are called joggers. It's this style that I think has changed the perception of a properly fitting pant leg. People expect the leg to taper in toward the ankle in some way, either gradually, like joggers, or suddenly, like barrel-legged pants or harem pants. Expecting the more modern narrow legs made the relatively straight legs of Simplicity 9272 look really wide to me.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOEBpf6Bv2LftUlfX1Zad0VldGiN2i8AKLT-0SQKjBtk5I-Ja_syXxm9VbAuHS02xTVCyUCiHsOOl9S4ZH4RfOhH41iwiZm0V4DmsBYyQslrD3KiyKlojinETWLGPNGQFSfvDPE3gLBIyGi2rALF80gCtKCJdNP_411ihi1UH8fTiLWDxEbQ8W51rH07uA/s3344/pantsf.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3344" data-original-width="2876" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOEBpf6Bv2LftUlfX1Zad0VldGiN2i8AKLT-0SQKjBtk5I-Ja_syXxm9VbAuHS02xTVCyUCiHsOOl9S4ZH4RfOhH41iwiZm0V4DmsBYyQslrD3KiyKlojinETWLGPNGQFSfvDPE3gLBIyGi2rALF80gCtKCJdNP_411ihi1UH8fTiLWDxEbQ8W51rH07uA/w344-h400/pantsf.jpg" width="344" /></a></div><br />Admittedly, these pants legs look a little tapered in the photo of the front. From the back, they look like straight legs. This is what bothered me initially. However, my recent study of vintage patterns has changed my view of pants legs. Wider legs don't look so strange anymore. I am quite taken with this image of Amelia Earhart:<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://content.presspage.com/uploads/1911/1920_ameliaearhart2.png?10000" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="533" data-original-width="800" height="427" src="https://content.presspage.com/uploads/1911/1920_ameliaearhart2.png?10000" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>Those are just such nice pants! The way they hang, the break over the shoes, the flat front, the slanted pockets--they have such nice features. I have no idea what the fabric might be. The era would have me to think it is wool. Perhaps it is just heavy cotton, or even silk or rayon. Regardless, that is the image that made it possible for me to feel comfortable in my new pants.</p><p>Additionally, my new sweater feels comfortable, and goes well with these pants.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVZXYS5GXPYS4AQUVZJObBJo2kcVMAEKgTMQ9sCNvxcQj4GMet0w_Sadr8hQZHM6KH-dU5L7Ehw7EFBEoM5kTnm9-6dGjdepEEiMUkzecUBn12dmFWQxAvsRR9K-kgpDjf8YeGB1HD9drDiMsspWaFyUMPuIKG9FyqYFMiWhxcGS2iPmeV0zPYdirSl8wR/s3369/Fred.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3369" data-original-width="2727" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVZXYS5GXPYS4AQUVZJObBJo2kcVMAEKgTMQ9sCNvxcQj4GMet0w_Sadr8hQZHM6KH-dU5L7Ehw7EFBEoM5kTnm9-6dGjdepEEiMUkzecUBn12dmFWQxAvsRR9K-kgpDjf8YeGB1HD9drDiMsspWaFyUMPuIKG9FyqYFMiWhxcGS2iPmeV0zPYdirSl8wR/w518-h640/Fred.jpg" width="518" /></a></div><p>The sweater was a combination of two patterns, the Fredrika cardigan for the charts and the Ashland pullover for the style. I have knitted the Ashland before and liked the pattern, except for the wide swaths of stockinette between the stranded portions (that made the fabric pouf out between the patterning) and the steeks (that did not seem necessary). This one was knitted without the steeks but otherwise followed the shaping for the sleeves. The steeks are really not needed. The yarn is all left over from other projects except for the light gray--that was salvaged from an old sweater, one I made several years ago. The style and the fit was outdated. Since it was knit without steeks, it could be ripped out to reuse the yarn.</p>Susan Lunihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17799333297406389634noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492301279871001546.post-20136309268346750722024-01-26T12:11:00.000-08:002024-01-26T12:11:40.504-08:00Sewing A Bigger Field Bag, Artist Version<p>The one field bag that I made last January is great for sock projects. It has been in heavy use for the year. In fact, there is a sock project in it right now that will go with me shortly for an appointment that guarantees a little wait time. However, that project is a small repair that won't take long. The only other knitting project on the go right now is a sweater. That project is far along, with the sleeves and body attached together. It simply won't fit into my field bag. In order to bring it with me, there must be a larger bag. I looked at the Town Bag, available like the Field Bag, as a pattern from Grainline, but it has a lot more pockets than I need in a knitting bag. Realizing that led me to look at the fabric that came with my "artist" version of the field bag kit. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinCPQ4PS5zUtIcKjqKh39u4GeAbbgzNj0_Cy-JV4VdUELTTvKcbjrzAs4owWQxvOMd4lJ-JmQ1V76PNkmXQMMg6onEb3MHJhAiWjyXKRcnO7pCiEnmv4vSgcsrZFNWPmS3drGeW7pTSsz2Ywtb-PftzGHTgYXcIsRaWVNhhpf6hIanITGCzFS5wykIyqav/s3024/IMG_1963.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinCPQ4PS5zUtIcKjqKh39u4GeAbbgzNj0_Cy-JV4VdUELTTvKcbjrzAs4owWQxvOMd4lJ-JmQ1V76PNkmXQMMg6onEb3MHJhAiWjyXKRcnO7pCiEnmv4vSgcsrZFNWPmS3drGeW7pTSsz2Ywtb-PftzGHTgYXcIsRaWVNhhpf6hIanITGCzFS5wykIyqav/w640-h640/IMG_1963.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div><br />The kit was a present from Christmas 2022. This project used the Field Bag pattern again, along with the fabric that came with the kit, a canvas painted especially for the bag. Additionally, it used a yard of duck cloth for the pockets and lining, a yard of webbing for the handles and a small part of a package of cord for the drawstrings. The painted canvas was a couple of inches wider and longer than the pattern piece, leading me to believe that it could be made into a somewhat larger version of the field bag. I was correct, but my math was off. Using the same size pocket meant that the box edges didn't line up properly.<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPuRHbVSA9QsrT3UUqRrAHi6Qj25kSmpw-wyHXBIqd7Ei4G_U8jBtC23VwGK98fH_GAEGQ85Lchu2X_KmeraqPPbXHDTZbsc0y59ByvKmjsRkY4LPBvkVm7VycJe4owfaakZUP4Sq_06eIPEYdyEsfyo7PvCD6FhWfCdNWRtGg_-WFOznrdWEF8GCpTnga/s3849/IMG_1966.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3849" data-original-width="2887" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPuRHbVSA9QsrT3UUqRrAHi6Qj25kSmpw-wyHXBIqd7Ei4G_U8jBtC23VwGK98fH_GAEGQ85Lchu2X_KmeraqPPbXHDTZbsc0y59ByvKmjsRkY4LPBvkVm7VycJe4owfaakZUP4Sq_06eIPEYdyEsfyo7PvCD6FhWfCdNWRtGg_-WFOznrdWEF8GCpTnga/w480-h640/IMG_1966.jpeg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><p>The pocket seam lines are not visible from the outside because they are sewn to a lining (the Field Bag pattern does not call for a lining). The lining forms the back of the casing for the drawstrings, making it unnecessary to fold the bag fabric over to from the casing. That makes the bag a little larger, too. With all these changes, the pocket portion that delineates the fold lines for the bag should have been made larger. It wasn't off by much, just enough to make the folding a little cumbersome. However, the sizing is good. This larger bag easily holds the sweater. </p><p>The handles work very well. They are easy to grab and just long enough. The drawstring does not draw up much, simply because the painted fabric is so stiff. The fabric was painted with something other than fabric paint. The end effect is nice, but the fabric is scratchy and somewhat strange to touch. Perhaps it will soften with use. Between the stiffness of the outer fabric and the reinforcement of the duck cloth lining, the bag doesn't fall over, even when empty.</p>Susan Lunihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17799333297406389634noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492301279871001546.post-50177769358710310112024-01-23T11:58:00.000-08:002024-01-23T11:58:53.072-08:00Sewing the Seventies with McCall's 5678<p><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;">McCall's 5678 sounds like a made up pattern number--5,6,7,8--really, McCalls? Maybe it's my lucky number? However, the next number is not so encouraging. There are 10 pattern pieces to the shirt, but two are interfacing pieces. Of course, a standard shirt pattern with buttons, cuffs, and collar will have that many or more. Since this is a "Henley" style, half-placket shirt, the front is all one piece. That may make it simpler. Simpler still is the absence of a pocket. Never mind. There's a similar pattern with a pocket. It has short sleeves, which is why I didn't choose it for this flannel shirt. This flannel is appropriate for winter/spring as it is a very light flannel. That brings me to the details about the pattern and the fabric: an almost flannel from a fancy New York fabric retailer, Fabrics and Fabrics. </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></p><p class="qowt-stl-Normal x-scope qowt-word-para-0" id="E-8" is="qowt-word-para" qowt-eid="E-8" qowt-entry="undefined" qowt-lvl="undefined"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUtXl0QJgvhypUhwlBCH3gid5IuNrPkKu5vyJsDTgjHZmrHLVe5K3uDlEKu6k81PkDA3CFrujdzt2kWXkhZ_vtWFiWd57v56krJjV0HAjtCYiXH-_lA_brKdROmmk9ljpkjvkD5VxWAnxKVLpVhKlRK0MOWBnuH4eaP_sSBY4lwtnSEnmLG0Dkh_gM32yf/s3807/IMG_1737.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3807" data-original-width="2855" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUtXl0QJgvhypUhwlBCH3gid5IuNrPkKu5vyJsDTgjHZmrHLVe5K3uDlEKu6k81PkDA3CFrujdzt2kWXkhZ_vtWFiWd57v56krJjV0HAjtCYiXH-_lA_brKdROmmk9ljpkjvkD5VxWAnxKVLpVhKlRK0MOWBnuH4eaP_sSBY4lwtnSEnmLG0Dkh_gM32yf/w300-h400/IMG_1737.jpeg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;">The plaid flannel yarn-dyed cotton shirting, yellow/teal, 4 1/2 yards, 42" wide, was purchased for a total of $37.80. The pattern is actually 1977, dangerously close to the 80s. Even so, there are at least a</span></span></span></span></span></span><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"> couple of reasons to like the 1977 pattern. For one, it has the cute little rulers printed on the lengthen/shorten lines. </span></span></span></span></span></span><p class="qowt-stl-Normal x-scope qowt-word-para-0" id="E-8" is="qowt-word-para" qowt-eid="E-8" qowt-entry="undefined" qowt-lvl="undefined"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSFiZXzaJjB8ywSUCjhQacOTkSjDMeDqMTWMVEctEEzLxxgXQ_N3MsxhznYVmAOnj9jIjkzBkTXOzzhTwH3DzIAXFVUtCHZ79HpzGce-QIOwIk7zdWpBaun9pw_x1ak6kzrH0TX1pd4_XeA34qHovKMe0VFzAU2H5ad_HvaZ9bpKR0yGVPj7mL4bDhJTZ6/s3024/IMG_1739.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSFiZXzaJjB8ywSUCjhQacOTkSjDMeDqMTWMVEctEEzLxxgXQ_N3MsxhznYVmAOnj9jIjkzBkTXOzzhTwH3DzIAXFVUtCHZ79HpzGce-QIOwIk7zdWpBaun9pw_x1ak6kzrH0TX1pd4_XeA34qHovKMe0VFzAU2H5ad_HvaZ9bpKR0yGVPj7mL4bDhJTZ6/s320/IMG_1739.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;">For another, the notches are marked and instructed to be cut to the outside of the cut lines, just as I learned to do when I began sewing and as I still prefer to do. </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><p></p><p class="qowt-stl-Normal x-scope qowt-word-para-0" id="E-8" is="qowt-word-para" qowt-eid="E-8" qowt-entry="undefined" qowt-lvl="undefined"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXKucT5jAIgIsiD0DdIQc5Ab4xVcqqJn2bkoHLhjgZ99-885HDeNA-JsAObLqcp1f7PjqxwhQFrEogg1OxoGFa3A9A5Ke3b7uiYSzAip0yQG5361dzAtND5WgRyNUXw_1vtSR525Zucqk1QDEsVLiRWQ4gD1JwPMzh-0bMnEdc1d0AkEHc5yrhHx7regQx/s3024/IMG_1742.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXKucT5jAIgIsiD0DdIQc5Ab4xVcqqJn2bkoHLhjgZ99-885HDeNA-JsAObLqcp1f7PjqxwhQFrEogg1OxoGFa3A9A5Ke3b7uiYSzAip0yQG5361dzAtND5WgRyNUXw_1vtSR525Zucqk1QDEsVLiRWQ4gD1JwPMzh-0bMnEdc1d0AkEHc5yrhHx7regQx/s320/IMG_1742.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;">Third, and this may be a dislike, it has the buttons on the right side. I was going to change it but my general rule for a toile is to first make it as is and alter later to improve fit or correct problems. As far as the other shirt pattern that is so similar, the one with the pocket, the buttons are on the left side as is usual for women's clothing. The placement here must be a design choice. However, the pattern layout drawings for M5678 also have the plackets cut on doubled fabric in some cases, even though the pattern pieces are marked </span></span></span></span><i><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;">Cut 1.</span></span></span></span></i><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"> Since there is that small error in the layout, the reversed placket could be an error as well. After some consideration, my final decision was to go with it as is. Here's that other shirt pattern, the one with the pocket, such a cute pocket.</span></span></span></span></span></span><p></p><p class="qowt-stl-Normal x-scope qowt-word-para-0" id="E-8" is="qowt-word-para" qowt-eid="E-8" qowt-entry="undefined" qowt-lvl="undefined"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcVKGx4LZdOw8IhVeIAbTP0KV_RAuWlyJezke67BtgJNVMeE_KTorxM0qUBnqN3LNmqnz05qsFuwEm_MQByJpnrrW4n4ljz1dQDPJKWmvxBb1gdF9PT0x3lXlLO8CX8ysSLBm1fdYGvCUuqzbVrw4ri1WyI0LfLmic0YTo3XNJDPR6d7i4VItrIBn7T-Mc/s3243/IMG_1745.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3243" data-original-width="2432" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcVKGx4LZdOw8IhVeIAbTP0KV_RAuWlyJezke67BtgJNVMeE_KTorxM0qUBnqN3LNmqnz05qsFuwEm_MQByJpnrrW4n4ljz1dQDPJKWmvxBb1gdF9PT0x3lXlLO8CX8ysSLBm1fdYGvCUuqzbVrw4ri1WyI0LfLmic0YTo3XNJDPR6d7i4VItrIBn7T-Mc/s320/IMG_1745.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;">On the plus side of design in 5678, the shoulder seams sit forward and are enclosed in the back yoke. Also, there's a collar stand but no collar. It follows my mandarin collar theme. </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><p></p><p class="qowt-stl-Normal x-scope qowt-word-para-0" id="E-8" is="qowt-word-para" qowt-eid="E-8" qowt-entry="undefined" qowt-lvl="undefined"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;">After the right placket (button band) was attached, the plaid was matched by pure luck. Meaning, it matches because it folds over the opposite way than I thought it did. There's a lot of top stitching on the band, starting with the tab.</span></span></span></span></span></span></p><p class="qowt-stl-Normal x-scope qowt-word-para-0" id="E-8" is="qowt-word-para" qowt-eid="E-8" qowt-entry="undefined" qowt-lvl="undefined"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;">In sewing the button hole band, there is a tab that extends over the outside of the shirt, over a box pleat and over the end of the button band. In this case, the tab should be the same size as the band to ensure it is wide enough to cover the pleats and the button band. (Yes, this note is here because I stitched it wrong, resulting in a tab that is 1/8" narrower than the band. I compensated for the difference by making the pleat narrower.)</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7icHsEczZdPze_y7MkCRXTy9cT8C5AKB9tk3smdwolRnxf3kN9WEzirocHrUl56OssaW28GAt7Y53r3R5pDgg5jFOLxMFHryk0OyrfOlgKfgXKrEAEJtZD2QOY9ce7NOOIcX774fyyOwwTv43LQmWn9svB_uQWUQ49REqI3XPm_jOplOdb7jtf5K35zbx/s4032/IMG_1792.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7icHsEczZdPze_y7MkCRXTy9cT8C5AKB9tk3smdwolRnxf3kN9WEzirocHrUl56OssaW28GAt7Y53r3R5pDgg5jFOLxMFHryk0OyrfOlgKfgXKrEAEJtZD2QOY9ce7NOOIcX774fyyOwwTv43LQmWn9svB_uQWUQ49REqI3XPm_jOplOdb7jtf5K35zbx/w300-h400/IMG_1792.jpeg" width="300" /></a></div><p><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;">The pleat hits me right at my waist. As a result, the fullness from the pleat is somewhat unflattering. It may draw attention to my belly? If so, it could be stitched down for some distance to minimize the effect.</span></span></span></span></p><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;">The shoulder seams and collar went together next. Finally, the sleeves and the hem. The sleeves were difficult. In the end, there were three sleeves cut (living up to the name of this blog). The fabric was a little off-grain. The grain line on the pattern matched no other lines on the sleeve. Due to the pattern lines, the plaid on the shirt would not line up with the plaid on the sleeves. With all these factors, the best solution was to just try to line up the most obvious point. The first set of sleeves had the plaid lined up at the sleeve seam notches. However, once they were both sewn in, the more obvious point was the top of the shoulders--especially since one sleeve matched there better than the other. With a third sleeve replacing the mismatched one, the obvious mismatch is only a little less obvious. That is enough for me. My most successful outcome would be to have the plaid line up across the sleeves and the body. As it is, it appears to line up at some angles and the plaid is matched across the side seams of the body.</span></span></span></span><div><br /></div><div><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;">The end of this cut of fabric is off grain and won't be made straight. Probably hanging it to dry was a bad idea. It must be washed again and dried flat, perhaps after a bit of a tumble dry. Even then it may not be usable, which is a disappointment. There's enough for a pair of pants or shorts which would be nice to have if this shirt becomes a secret pajama top. To save more fabric for a pants project and to avoid using off grain fabric in an obvious spot, there will not be a pocket added to this shirt. It looks a little too busy for one, anyway.</span></span></div><div><br /></div><div><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;">The really cute buttons were a surprise find at my local fabric store. They are 3/16" too large and a little too thick. Since they came 3 to a card, I opted to use plain brown buttons for the cuffs. </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div><div><br /></div><div><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><div><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLOdHufmrfY1t2wDhBsPQ9RrKBoZemc4IMvcUY0U-KXPOSZOzpJH6k-GmagJbvbLauPWbIyqPq5kf5iEHWmQkAiOBacUu5Sp7qM-KGStY7uyEqqLGlCd2hh_ig2HScGHkZ26C_pcvZrTCTiuKfPPfg7Zd2xahKI5SsbAnG6ad_GQhsSQLrR9hYfBgFGH3z/s3024/IMG_1831.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLOdHufmrfY1t2wDhBsPQ9RrKBoZemc4IMvcUY0U-KXPOSZOzpJH6k-GmagJbvbLauPWbIyqPq5kf5iEHWmQkAiOBacUu5Sp7qM-KGStY7uyEqqLGlCd2hh_ig2HScGHkZ26C_pcvZrTCTiuKfPPfg7Zd2xahKI5SsbAnG6ad_GQhsSQLrR9hYfBgFGH3z/w400-h400/IMG_1831.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;">The cuffs were cut a little off grain, along with the sleeves. The cuffs can only match the sleeves horizontally because the sleeve is gathered. The two sleeves almost ended at the same point in the plaid. One sleeve was sewn 1/8" shorter to make the cuff sit at the same point of the plaid. The cuffs are lined up along the prominent plaid line (the gold one). </span></span></span></span></span></span></div><div><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;">Heavy duty black thread was used for the cuff buttonholes (dark brown buttons) and Coats and Clark dark blue thread for the placket buttonholes (gold and blue buttons.) My m</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;">achine seems more prone to error on successive buttonholes. It might be best to turn it off or at least clear the stitch between buttonholes. This mostly means that the machine should be watched closely so it can be turned off once it errors. If it is caught in time, the stitches are easily picked out and the buttonhole can be redone. This time, there was only a 1/4" of stitches to be picked out.</span></span></div><div><br /></div><div>It is a little 80s. There's room for shoulder pads, but -- NO.<br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNuypY4IpvOrx58FrCfHrkTjF1chZzXOliyyKxIUQ_0VRa02wJuHV6csrsejkp-wSs2-dqgb2YFF9Fgk-847dgLjWPvHvAyKWivirf8SIZ_PaRO1OLO3gu0x_9oCNINvtIffvIE7BzRjJU_bo3GZ0d5IfGUHCLjp_Y_tzk3VZMkyNGqpuvsn8kLDMQ5Q2s/s3445/IMG_1957.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3445" data-original-width="2687" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNuypY4IpvOrx58FrCfHrkTjF1chZzXOliyyKxIUQ_0VRa02wJuHV6csrsejkp-wSs2-dqgb2YFF9Fgk-847dgLjWPvHvAyKWivirf8SIZ_PaRO1OLO3gu0x_9oCNINvtIffvIE7BzRjJU_bo3GZ0d5IfGUHCLjp_Y_tzk3VZMkyNGqpuvsn8kLDMQ5Q2s/w500-h640/IMG_1957.jpeg" width="500" /></a></div><br /><div><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;">The hems are not quite straight on grain but look ok. The pattern instructions call for the hemming first, then turning under the edge of the slits on each side. I am not sure that this is my preference, but it does hide the edge of the hem.</span></span></div></div><div><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRUkym3WpVuEkfTVUWYrC95jKa49ztnhyphenhyphenH3yE7L3NgJ7YKRinWX3IY-X9s0Uf4Z-imUe-ju8gno2DsjYDDX0HSIGTcI6bYHcD9KTaIx6ic-X8Yly__zoI5-doXZT9bWAcp74rg6pVxpn5QZqQlwia-2ZR6-_NBTRUAFEtnTX6YqVwJWhi59tOXN545SWBs/s2944/IMG_1887.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2944" data-original-width="2944" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRUkym3WpVuEkfTVUWYrC95jKa49ztnhyphenhyphenH3yE7L3NgJ7YKRinWX3IY-X9s0Uf4Z-imUe-ju8gno2DsjYDDX0HSIGTcI6bYHcD9KTaIx6ic-X8Yly__zoI5-doXZT9bWAcp74rg6pVxpn5QZqQlwia-2ZR6-_NBTRUAFEtnTX6YqVwJWhi59tOXN545SWBs/w400-h400/IMG_1887.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div><br /></span></div><div><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;"><span style="vertical-align: inherit;">All in all, it turned out to be one of my better makes, especially in seasonality. Plaid shirts and jeans was the uniform of the day wherever I went.</span></span></span></div>Susan Lunihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17799333297406389634noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492301279871001546.post-5427537046293563012024-01-09T08:27:00.000-08:002024-01-09T08:27:12.036-08:00Trying out Simplicity 1887, the pants<p>Since my original experience with a vintage sewing pattern was very satisfying, I bought a bunch more. The patterns from the 70's are my home ground, since that is when I first learned to sew. Besides my familiarity with the older patterns, I suspect that the sizing is a better fit for me. Mostly, my suspicions are that the length of the skirt and the torso are shorter in these older patterns, while newer ones are sized for taller bodies. All to say that I am glad to have the option of using patterns from so many different eras and sources. Sewing has become a nice distraction from life's stressors.</p><p>My first choice for vintage sewing fun was a 1950 pattern, McCall's 8246. Not only does this one predate my other choices, it looks distinctly unfamiliar, right from the start--the fabric. It was designed for <i>54" tubular material</i>. Tubular material is currently available, but it is usually ribbed knit intended for use as cuffs and hems on athletic garments. There's no information on what tubular material was in the 50s--knit (likely), woven, cotton, wool, or? With no other guidance than that, I first elected to use a modestly priced cotton flannel for the toile.</p><p>It is 3 yards of Shetland Flannel, 100% cotton, made in India, SRKF-13937-12 Grey, Machine wash, cold, delicate cycle, do not bleach, tumble dry low: cool iron, 44" wide. Purchased for $6.50/yd, or a total of $17.50 from Hodge Podge fabric shop in Salida, Co. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSsk9hAAdKQJJZznhcmrGuIdKQhHDJyTp3g-NIyNl8o63aAePbZkx2cdWCLfTt3GCiFF1sqX5O8pls5L2yeo5F0t0-j8Dez_UUdIptCkbvtcgG8uym-pejat2mgxgX4UarvqqOhG4NZeX9V2N_VDyoFJq25434Xzp7OteEFXyaozjyKcS4RGZZhW-qWXgB/s3738/IMG_1738.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3738" data-original-width="2804" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSsk9hAAdKQJJZznhcmrGuIdKQhHDJyTp3g-NIyNl8o63aAePbZkx2cdWCLfTt3GCiFF1sqX5O8pls5L2yeo5F0t0-j8Dez_UUdIptCkbvtcgG8uym-pejat2mgxgX4UarvqqOhG4NZeX9V2N_VDyoFJq25434Xzp7OteEFXyaozjyKcS4RGZZhW-qWXgB/s320/IMG_1738.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><br />Although this thrifty choice would have made an effective toile and been a casual version of the dress, it was too little. There was not enough of this fabric for this pattern, which requires 2 2/3 yards of fabric that is 54" wide or wider. Although seams can be hidden in the body at the front and back tucks, making it possible to piece the body from two cuts 26" wide, that approach would use all of the Shetland Flannel. There would be nothing left for the yokes and the sleeves. Since, admittedly, the flannel is too casual for this dress, that idea was dropped. <p>Seeking a good use for the flannel, I read some descriptions and suggestions from sellers of this fabric. The one that struck me was "pajamas." Aha. The idea came to me to continue the pants making and produce pants that feel like pajamas--making "secret pajamas", a term that became popular a couple of years ago, when people were staying home during the pandemic. Coincidentally, I have a pattern set aside for a skirt that includes pants, rather roomy pleated pants with an elastic waistband. Not only does it look pajama-y, it will produce a toile that will guide me in the skirt making.</p><p>Thus began Simplicity 1887, View A, elastic waist pants with pockets. The starting size was a 16, the largest size in the size block I purchased--after all, this is a toile. Even though the fabric shrunk to 42" wide and 2" short of 3 yards long, there was plenty for the size 16 pants cut to the full pattern length (i.e. not shortened). Leg edges were overcast before sewing together. Assembly followed the instructions except for cautiously sewing a 3/8" seam at the top of the 4 vertical seams (side seams and center seams). This resulted in a 44" waist, much larger than needed and too large for the waistband. </p><p>My next step was to sew the standard 5/8" seam in the center and side seams of the pants. With a 3/8" seam at the waistband side seams, the waistband fit nicely onto the pants and in the end, onto me, due to the elastic in the back. The elastic is extremely difficult to insert in the two casings by following the instructions. Whether it was due to the thickness of the fabric, the flimsy elastic, or the tightness of the casing--or the combination of all of those problems, it was hard. No-roll elastic, a wider casing and starting from the center back instead of the front might work better when I make the skirt.</p><p>The pattern piece for the elastic is long enough, probably too long. With the waist at 32", there was at least 3" extra on the starting end. Some of that may be because it is underwear elastic, which is more stretchy than no-roll. It is also more comfy and more prone to twisting. </p><p>Taking up the inseams 1/4" and the side seams 1/2" brought the pants below the waist down to size 14. This is still a very roomy fit with a lot of ease. The skirt might be best in a size 12, depending on how much stretch there is in the fabric. The sizing is a little surprising. Based on my measurements, a size 14 should fit my hips. The finished hip measurement is 45 1/2". That's 7 1/2" of ease. Is so much ease for style, comfort, or movement? Either reason will do because these pants are truly comfy, warm, secret pajamas.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOFI6-38Xc4oA965Ee0pWoATAf0LztN6nV7Xdog4ZG9R5jMayEUVHWzEZKi2iFD_a7y2xm0n3gTu_Caz4cz_8QSowphZU9vIJoRY18xKsfqXFeAEW9srdpz9ZlliNGV2kP2m4yjN08MO7xUCSjQSh-4qoh5KmRxfkDEGP8JRqeEpSZEgtF7lAsdFrW1jO1/s2929/IMG_1774.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2929" data-original-width="2197" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOFI6-38Xc4oA965Ee0pWoATAf0LztN6nV7Xdog4ZG9R5jMayEUVHWzEZKi2iFD_a7y2xm0n3gTu_Caz4cz_8QSowphZU9vIJoRY18xKsfqXFeAEW9srdpz9ZlliNGV2kP2m4yjN08MO7xUCSjQSh-4qoh5KmRxfkDEGP8JRqeEpSZEgtF7lAsdFrW1jO1/w300-h400/IMG_1774.jpeg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><br />The pattern leaves the waistband edge turned down and exposed rather than turned up covered by the band. They suggest machine finishing the edge, but I opted to bind it with some gray seam binding. Turning it over the edge was a bit tight because it was single fold, but all I had in gray. <p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgun7GvCHn8FRL064xxTCcEXo6PIkjrIvtO5tV76wHdC7ddH5Jib5nIckBVHQO0pgG3xF-T6XkCNClR0zo4nhU9M09KzH1xHHmS7sO8sZqPQWyFcAeZlYmlGNs_R0gx3HfZZOLvOgaSvP_dBlKoSEoza3C7L3sPYeTY7rWUnqMhAEGQLmFd6eBdTlw6lF4-/s4032/IMG_1782.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgun7GvCHn8FRL064xxTCcEXo6PIkjrIvtO5tV76wHdC7ddH5Jib5nIckBVHQO0pgG3xF-T6XkCNClR0zo4nhU9M09KzH1xHHmS7sO8sZqPQWyFcAeZlYmlGNs_R0gx3HfZZOLvOgaSvP_dBlKoSEoza3C7L3sPYeTY7rWUnqMhAEGQLmFd6eBdTlw6lF4-/w300-h400/IMG_1782.jpeg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><p>The pants are hemmed at 1 1/4", as recommended, with a blind hem. They are intended to be ankle length. They are a bit longer on me, with the hem exactly where I prefer it, in the middle of my heel.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbBw5gFdNwzjKgUh3V8ugouqsnR2isb0TihKkpz5O5TUL-hrrlGhe50a6Hl8HyP_Q3LbE-S-LxB3aL-stKYDGlqJw8DboLrj9LahVMQSDebag0WHKeff6NhmPUvOi6DfpKFAv-k2j2n7j58vysjYn_VbNdeIcyj14lEYcb5d-6AtpJIKzDb9IcSnGghbFs/s3958/IMG_1751.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3958" data-original-width="2278" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbBw5gFdNwzjKgUh3V8ugouqsnR2isb0TihKkpz5O5TUL-hrrlGhe50a6Hl8HyP_Q3LbE-S-LxB3aL-stKYDGlqJw8DboLrj9LahVMQSDebag0WHKeff6NhmPUvOi6DfpKFAv-k2j2n7j58vysjYn_VbNdeIcyj14lEYcb5d-6AtpJIKzDb9IcSnGghbFs/w230-h400/IMG_1751.jpeg" width="230" /></a></div><br /><br />Sewing the pants went quickly. Although the dress could be next, I am considering instead a flannel shirt. It will be appropriate for Winter through Spring as it is a very light flannel.<p>Not to worry, That 1950s dress is coming. I found some 58" wide green lyocell in my fabric stash. It will serve as the toile of the dress. This will move the project into my other Spring sewing, which has a theme--Green! I have stashed four or five pieces of fabric that will bring green to my wardrobe this Spring.</p><p>While pondering the possibilities, I had a look through the fabrics I have stashed away. It adds up to $778 in about 45 pieces. That's about $17 per project. It is a frugal amount, but it ranges greatly. Some pieces are only suitable for toiles, some are quite nice, and some I regret buying. </p><p>And, what did I make in 2023? The fabric cost totaled $275, producing 18 items, so about $16 each. </p><p></p><p></p><p></p>Susan Lunihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17799333297406389634noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492301279871001546.post-20826878847954396212023-12-23T13:29:00.000-08:002023-12-23T13:29:53.192-08:00Continuing the navy blues in Simplicity 9018<p>As the weather turned cooler this year, a shortage of long sleeve knit shirts in my closet became noticeable. That meant a look at the fabrics and patterns I have accumulated. Simplicity 9018 provided a mock turtleneck top, a look that is trending this fall. The pattern has simple, casual separates for knit fabrics. A recent addition to my fabric collection is 2 yards of Art Gallery Fabrics Gentle Draft Knit in Moonrise, 95% cotton, 5% spandex, 58" wide. This came from the Confident Stitch in Montana at a price of $37.80. Pattern calls for 1 5/8 yards for the long sleeve top. This version was cut on the medium size, grading to the large just above the waist. There was about 3/4 of a yard of fabric remaining. <p>The size lines are not marked on the left side of the neck piece. Before I realized this, I cut along the line that is near the small dot for the size M. This makes it 7/8" too short. A narrower seam left it only 3/8" too short. It is actually a nice fit, requiring just a little easing required to sew it to the neckline.</p> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCHIO-rPk4QWF4Qz18ZAi3AV55NN-vSxf7603ehekgP9kfrGywgabdoCkAQC2AamGidlNSrryRQQ4QKZSMtRbbhBtGA7Ewf8EhEVxx3JXdmvWjoLNybW6XwrWCs_nsnsgO9w3IiDxwseZfTEhkixMNCjFlXnU1valAoT08SJfKmopEkOyPIccRpmS8a6u8/s3645/IMG_1715.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3645" data-original-width="2734" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCHIO-rPk4QWF4Qz18ZAi3AV55NN-vSxf7603ehekgP9kfrGywgabdoCkAQC2AamGidlNSrryRQQ4QKZSMtRbbhBtGA7Ewf8EhEVxx3JXdmvWjoLNybW6XwrWCs_nsnsgO9w3IiDxwseZfTEhkixMNCjFlXnU1valAoT08SJfKmopEkOyPIccRpmS8a6u8/w300-h400/IMG_1715.jpeg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div>It is all sewn with a stretch stitch (lighting stitch, i.e. it looks like lightning bolts) on a tiny BP needle with less pressure--all because this fabric is very cushy and stretchy. In the end, I resorted to the walking foot to get a smooth seam. The regular foot stretched the fabric and made the seam ruffle.<p></p></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc1F7ANOaCRwA9GnrtPMHFRFdckDbdsMOQ6yADvCZduGicz0fv4JUyerWHWvTxWyMsq-8N3-JJ222qSfRw0e6SkJtnRPi1HuePgWbDRmTbS2OlE7Vcm5RcvNOniX3hyBRYRI9rSvgvwe3g4bvh0sOjZtE4-rMk22pt-X9C_NZO7-BEOfbV8Qo8m-_3snzB/s4032/IMG_1714.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc1F7ANOaCRwA9GnrtPMHFRFdckDbdsMOQ6yADvCZduGicz0fv4JUyerWHWvTxWyMsq-8N3-JJ222qSfRw0e6SkJtnRPi1HuePgWbDRmTbS2OlE7Vcm5RcvNOniX3hyBRYRI9rSvgvwe3g4bvh0sOjZtE4-rMk22pt-X9C_NZO7-BEOfbV8Qo8m-_3snzB/s320/IMG_1714.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div>Using a 3/8" seam allowance on the sides provided even more ease, but it was necessary to grade to a 5/8" allowance at the armholes so the sleeves fit. </div><div>The sleeves went in well. The hem length is per pattern. It is hemmed with a wavy stitch, to match the print in fabric. This stitch stretches better than plain top stitching and is inspired by quilting bloggers, who often match the stitch to the print.<p></p></div>Susan Lunihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17799333297406389634noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492301279871001546.post-86630804500869592452023-12-09T08:45:00.000-08:002023-12-09T08:45:33.255-08:00Score! The 1977 Vintage Jacket Idea is Revived<p>On a spur-of-the-moment browse through a local sewing machine shop, I found some really good cotton for the second version of the jacket that I couldn't complete with the railroad twill. Now it will have railroad twill trim. The main fabric is a deep navy blue, with a texture a bit similar to a pique. It's 100% cotton, 56" wide. I bought the 1 1/2 yards left on the end of the bolt. Although I usually try to avoid the bolt ends because they often have wrinkles that won't come out, this cotton washed out smooth.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizWaJcROKEHk2vBGffxqGcrfJxue5hXj57HM18YVILYAPplccsaFYQwJN25Lx_imhz4UtXahdgh0g3e0YbBsjsqv85kkiKWYS7E1KC2gXg8ShHWzsxmadlbgMxonaD-f5heuFElAUk6hb1FC8-qRTWrniUsG305RjJ-So2Zr6HHEWGUJY6icsv0ewvfJaM/s3430/IMG_1638.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3430" data-original-width="2689" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizWaJcROKEHk2vBGffxqGcrfJxue5hXj57HM18YVILYAPplccsaFYQwJN25Lx_imhz4UtXahdgh0g3e0YbBsjsqv85kkiKWYS7E1KC2gXg8ShHWzsxmadlbgMxonaD-f5heuFElAUk6hb1FC8-qRTWrniUsG305RjJ-So2Zr6HHEWGUJY6icsv0ewvfJaM/w502-h640/IMG_1638.jpeg" width="502" /></a></div><br /><div>I have made this pattern once before, out of leftover fabric. For that first trial, there was not enough to make the pockets. Thus, the pockets for this pattern are a first time make. After a couple of mock-ups, I worked out how to attach the bias binding and reduce the bulk at the corners where the pocket will be top-stitched to the jacket. The railroad twill is heavy fabric, so top-stitching through multiple layers of twill and the textured cotton would have been difficult. I opted to hand sew the binding to the jacket at the pocket edges. I also finessed the edges of the binding by folding it over and stitching it right sides together before sewing the binding down by hand on the wrong side. I found that trimming the main fabric away from this seam at the corners reduced the bulk.<p></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxb_APe1MhCiMojONcIxauZ7IlJDbhE_HL0EMcytlyJoTXjRgrsN1arQthljkkCGLH0eshve_FJuZxG-KZdeAu7OwQJCaYYkPnYwe9xhkZ-1A83cqutFBuAmDZ0yX3si03TfFd0s1MYdQ5aYOUYcFleRH85FCXb7yE1bF1yhdCOY5sOPJp_lv7aGSJ5n7e/s2994/IMG_1440.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2994" data-original-width="2579" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxb_APe1MhCiMojONcIxauZ7IlJDbhE_HL0EMcytlyJoTXjRgrsN1arQthljkkCGLH0eshve_FJuZxG-KZdeAu7OwQJCaYYkPnYwe9xhkZ-1A83cqutFBuAmDZ0yX3si03TfFd0s1MYdQ5aYOUYcFleRH85FCXb7yE1bF1yhdCOY5sOPJp_lv7aGSJ5n7e/w345-h400/IMG_1440.jpeg" width="345" /></a></div><br />Most of the construction went smoothly according to the detailed vintage pattern instructions, which I found very helpful. The corners of the front yoke are reinforced with a bias square where it joins the front placket. The body is gathered and attached to the yokes for both the front and the back. The shoulders and side seams are sewn together. The hem is blind hemmed, but with the dark fabric, a topstitched hem was hardly visible. The collar pieces are attached to the jacket and to the facing and the jacket and facing are basted together before binding. Button loops are attached to the front and hand sewn to the facing after the binding is applied to the fronts. The pockets are constructed and sewn on. Finally, the cuff and sleeves are sewn together and sewn to the body. Prior to all this sewing however, came my only mistake, resulting in the interfacing being fused to the wrong piece. Oops.<div></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEBjs4bZyLYGzrEdflgQYJm3pV0FSAoAwiPRQYLjcji6mX7SpGSvN26XEmCqzyBweFw1kydac1tISd_ygy2HCSrGxJ0c1uR_VXF9sQXFWQX15a_O57mimdqqaRKcuOhueb3UYs_drNG1TLxD6dgXcaWN8yQVdAajfIjAQqToimK_1_XD-u9aA41_ECC0dT/s4032/IMG_1438.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEBjs4bZyLYGzrEdflgQYJm3pV0FSAoAwiPRQYLjcji6mX7SpGSvN26XEmCqzyBweFw1kydac1tISd_ygy2HCSrGxJ0c1uR_VXF9sQXFWQX15a_O57mimdqqaRKcuOhueb3UYs_drNG1TLxD6dgXcaWN8yQVdAajfIjAQqToimK_1_XD-u9aA41_ECC0dT/w300-h400/IMG_1438.jpeg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Placket interfaced correctly in first jacket</td></tr></tbody></table><div>That's right (i.e.<i>wrong</i>). I fused the interfacing to the facing rather than the jacket. I did it correctly the first time I followed this pattern, but not this time. The interfacing should be attached to the jacket over the placket seam. Since I did not think it would hold in place with the fusing to the seam, I fused it neatly to the facing, forgetting to check my first version. The old instructions call for a sewn in interfacing which would probably be better for this jacket. However, I wanted to use some black fusible interfacing I bought on a whim when interfacing was on sale. I didn't think I would have another project that would use this interfacing since it is very heavy, even though it is labeled feather weight. I have had fusible interfacing bubble after washing on other projects.</div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8_gj84lQkWtcq8ATeyT9eLWXnOCXqRBtonphTvS-TtE6y2DHMtfxNo0o7v2hfe5X40SkcGRlSBVYPOPGZHUdN7c2MlrLfXbr3Y-lJpssEI_PwWhzfmdw5ShEh8PwkU9hbMDyQqZBII5J8De6Hlmfct2YPfEo_cTbd1iUiu1AqG8wzS-OUOQF0ROAazEex/s2746/IMG_1436.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2746" data-original-width="2746" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8_gj84lQkWtcq8ATeyT9eLWXnOCXqRBtonphTvS-TtE6y2DHMtfxNo0o7v2hfe5X40SkcGRlSBVYPOPGZHUdN7c2MlrLfXbr3Y-lJpssEI_PwWhzfmdw5ShEh8PwkU9hbMDyQqZBII5J8De6Hlmfct2YPfEo_cTbd1iUiu1AqG8wzS-OUOQF0ROAazEex/w400-h400/IMG_1436.jpeg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Facing interfaced, placket bare in second jacket</td></tr></tbody></table><div>I reasoned that attaching it to the facing would hide any bubbling. Once I realized what I had done wrong, I followed through and used the interfaced collar piece as the facing. Now that it is all constructed, I can't see that it made any difference in the fit or drape of the jacket.<p></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNOgDa-XX7ApnP0v1LkP4OY1nfTsw-7ixM4DkU9emZMKwLGdV-fE03uoOqFEf_toNsJpd6EoSf1gAoYyR7oVPiypF17-z6L3E3PMSVUlKzbu3MpBFz1k7gNMAXC_TGJTmulUJ154N-c0bIzLZ-wBWnvxlkfBJZ1Re-3PzpxSSl5aWoXL1rAerAeZHL4KnQ/s2165/IMG_1437.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2165" data-original-width="1844" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNOgDa-XX7ApnP0v1LkP4OY1nfTsw-7ixM4DkU9emZMKwLGdV-fE03uoOqFEf_toNsJpd6EoSf1gAoYyR7oVPiypF17-z6L3E3PMSVUlKzbu3MpBFz1k7gNMAXC_TGJTmulUJ154N-c0bIzLZ-wBWnvxlkfBJZ1Re-3PzpxSSl5aWoXL1rAerAeZHL4KnQ/w341-h400/IMG_1437.jpeg" width="341" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished Placket</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>The sleeves are also a first make, since the original version has long sleeves. The short sleeve pieces were missing from the first pattern (a size 14) I purchased. This version uses the short sleeve pattern pieces from a size 12 pattern. There's a small difference in the fit, but not enough to warrant an adjustment. The contrast on the short sleeve is actually a lining on the inside hem. After it is sewn on, a cuff is turned up to allow the contrasting fabric to show. It would have a smoother appearance if the trim was sewn to the outside of the sleeve. The advantage to the contrast lining is that it offers choices on the depth of the cuff and even to not have a cuff.<p></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmz-mAjjv8TXtVbw23p1RRzf7mIH4k3tIPKW3G9geTINKG297SFrT9FgMa1GIuFgrjTjyGq3597z-_0sImnR_BLqQgbABh-CutoNP9dNHMPTmRZIRs8z4wabVA5Fa0NpFclskuEBcFhmdmkRDVIJ4pqjMaE3b3vPoVGjP_Kzrlf6-XrD4rPpkVH5QMiuRi/s3024/IMG_1439.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmz-mAjjv8TXtVbw23p1RRzf7mIH4k3tIPKW3G9geTINKG297SFrT9FgMa1GIuFgrjTjyGq3597z-_0sImnR_BLqQgbABh-CutoNP9dNHMPTmRZIRs8z4wabVA5Fa0NpFclskuEBcFhmdmkRDVIJ4pqjMaE3b3vPoVGjP_Kzrlf6-XrD4rPpkVH5QMiuRi/w400-h400/IMG_1439.jpeg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sleeve Cuff</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>There's a lot of details, hand sewing and facing in this rather casual jacket. It is probably not something I will make often, but it has a very cute vintage appeal, especially with the short sleeves, quirky pockets and toggle buttons. It was gratifying to be able to use the buttons from the Netherlands since the binding has an off-white background.<p></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzjlEPIKJOF6Kdik_4g4Y6_TvK5EiBkVDtrTDyJuq_M6Ozukkszfcd3-zom9W7QsHu2wUeoFG6z9y_PomrroWlqTJnbLlTrEOcNZ58yrEpzU33Q7qUSKZrz6LIzv_VKhe8CKq2uvkkDDDqF6Xx5Dcy8z8_NdK6jie7gpVXLPvh_eSgVv8dGNQkTG3s1KLN/s2045/IMG_1435.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2045" data-original-width="1427" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzjlEPIKJOF6Kdik_4g4Y6_TvK5EiBkVDtrTDyJuq_M6Ozukkszfcd3-zom9W7QsHu2wUeoFG6z9y_PomrroWlqTJnbLlTrEOcNZ58yrEpzU33Q7qUSKZrz6LIzv_VKhe8CKq2uvkkDDDqF6Xx5Dcy8z8_NdK6jie7gpVXLPvh_eSgVv8dGNQkTG3s1KLN/w279-h400/IMG_1435.jpeg" width="279" /></a></div><br /><div><div><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuXsgaTIxrZfdlFXZYrnaQrTZsMKaKVRWgD6-T3CVr1xAQ2sHLqGHdytsHKg3hr4C4Y0pnUkIqIODQmRitCWwZpqSPFfWKK9-HU8BayslI5T9E8UjJLx0ClzpOtipYR4oQXkJAEpRX3tSSMYRItTpSinSzUN_EbDNGUbamKqnmKUVDNZcXU1vvX-D126V4/s1024/navyjack.JPG" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" height="600" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="730" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuXsgaTIxrZfdlFXZYrnaQrTZsMKaKVRWgD6-T3CVr1xAQ2sHLqGHdytsHKg3hr4C4Y0pnUkIqIODQmRitCWwZpqSPFfWKK9-HU8BayslI5T9E8UjJLx0ClzpOtipYR4oQXkJAEpRX3tSSMYRItTpSinSzUN_EbDNGUbamKqnmKUVDNZcXU1vvX-D126V4/s600/navyjack.JPG"/></a></div>That's a final look at the vintage jacket. It's part of a complete coordinating set, with t-shirt and skirt. In navy blue, it works with a few other items I have sewn. I have one other piece of navy fabric to use. It will be up next.<p>Susan Lunihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17799333297406389634noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492301279871001546.post-28271951289698051492023-11-18T13:45:00.000-08:002023-11-18T13:45:34.020-08:00The Florence Shirt by Jalie, a troublesome toile<p>It seemed like it would be fun to sew up a shirt in a paneled print, playing with the print, placing a stripe here, a rectangle there. However, this wonderful slinky rayon crepe was a nightmare to cut, only somewhat manageable with a rotary cutter on a single layer. Luckily, it was easy to sew and a dream to wear. It does seem a bit crinkly, so it might stretch out with washing and wearing, as crinkle rayons do. </p><p>The 6 24" panels of Dark Navy/Camel/Pearl White/Multi 100% Rayon Diamond Framework Print Challis, 56" wide, were $24, bought from Fabric Mart for McCall's 7650. That pattern lists rayon challis. However, this is more of a rayon crepe. It would work for that pattern, but I was discouraged from making that dress by some pattern reviews. The dress back has no structure to support a drapey rayon fabric. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbUANZlt5hZ2HYl_aaxV8v3M20bD_9nafwZQokTzI7-rQzE1jrIS-AuzfNooLUPgfAi9GYsAYePeNRYCWFystVmUhmd3ELIH-jDHhw4P5p8Sle9oAH_gIUAhDFcwp3cZErO3KtBBuODq4aPNBfSqIPSJ8yaAS2crOc4NTz9-fV1Va2j85AiCiR2XrcO5Tl/s1024/Floback.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbUANZlt5hZ2HYl_aaxV8v3M20bD_9nafwZQokTzI7-rQzE1jrIS-AuzfNooLUPgfAi9GYsAYePeNRYCWFystVmUhmd3ELIH-jDHhw4P5p8Sle9oAH_gIUAhDFcwp3cZErO3KtBBuODq4aPNBfSqIPSJ8yaAS2crOc4NTz9-fV1Va2j85AiCiR2XrcO5Tl/w300-h400/Floback.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Florence Shirt by Jalie in Rayon</i> </td></tr></tbody></table><br />The Florence Shirt has structure in its collar, back yoke and plackets. For further support, the pocket instructions prompted me to interface the pocket hem as well as the usual interfacing on the collar and plackets. As additional support, bias binding was added to the pocket hem, plackets and shoulders. There won't be any unraveling there. The neck and sleeve edges have bands that enclose the seam allowances. At least, the collar is intended to enclose the allowance, the sleeve bands are not. However, it was a simple mod to turn the band seam allowance down and stitch in the ditch to secure it over the sleeve seam allowance. The side seams were pinked and pressed open. French seams would have been better there, but there's not enough seam allowance for that.<p>The 3/8" seam allowance is the start of my issues with the Jalie pattern format. A 3/8" allowance is good for knits because it saves a bit of fabric and the trouble of trimming. With woven fabrics, edge treatments, either French seams, Hong Kong finishes, or overcast edges, are often needed. A 5/8" seam allowance is essential for these finishes. Additionally, because the pattern is intended to be traced off, the paper is too thick for cutting. The instructions are clear and helpful. Some minor steps are omitted, such as seam finishes, pressing directions, etc. For example, the buttonholes are not marked on the pattern piece. A chart is provided for button placement for the dress option. If there is one for the shirt, it is lost now. (The buttonhole layout is my own, I explain below.) For those who like to trace patterns to save the original, don't mind a narrow seam allowance, and never refer to instructions, the format is good. The design is great and overcomes the pattern's shortfalls.</p><p>The construction is easy to understand. Assembly went as directed, with only one mistake on my part--attaching the collar in reverse of the instructions. The instructions are to sew the inner collar facing onto the shirt, then top stitch down the collar on the right side. Instead, I sewed the right side of the collar down, then top stitched the collar, catching the facing in the top stitching. As a result, I had to hand sew down a portion of the collar that did not get caught in the top stitching. The instructed method would have been easier. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU89WWODlOSjfgUXS5BzvqCUppqxOO8oXeQQm4NqtcGEae40f-zwNqzdMzyL8b1fzInCpkkym5GfJTTdDYX8VjF6pFAdyFCM3-nDmTLY_1iRR0g49Jy1NvPGJmB3Z22puDKFdzjAioRRLw2AfZu38seOawBQi5eyw3-8GLMmGaRPlefoXM2SzGdaYgCCzx/s1024/Flofront.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="823" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU89WWODlOSjfgUXS5BzvqCUppqxOO8oXeQQm4NqtcGEae40f-zwNqzdMzyL8b1fzInCpkkym5GfJTTdDYX8VjF6pFAdyFCM3-nDmTLY_1iRR0g49Jy1NvPGJmB3Z22puDKFdzjAioRRLw2AfZu38seOawBQi5eyw3-8GLMmGaRPlefoXM2SzGdaYgCCzx/w321-h400/Flofront.JPG" width="321" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">3/8" buttons<br />(The diagonals are part of the pockets!)</td></tr></tbody></table><br />In spite of a vague memory of a chart for button placement for the shirt, I could only find one for the dress. Even though the dress button placement chart was helpful, there's fewer buttons on the shirt. With my placement, there are fewer buttons than recommended for the shirt. However, that is not the only buttonhole problem. Even after realizing that the buttons are to be sewn horizontally for the collar and vertically for the band, I still forgot and sewed them all horizontally. It seemed the correct way because the buttonholes for my Vogue top are vertical and the buttons make them gape out around the thread shank. That could be caused by the 4-hole buttons, but also by the direction of the slide. These are two-hole buttons. It just seems to me that for the horizontal shank created by the two-hole button, it is better to allow the button to slide to the end of the buttonhole where it naturally wants to sit. There is a round-ended buttonhole style in my machine that is recommended for lightweight fabrics. These would be an option for a repeat of this pattern. Will there be a repeat? Look: <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9kr3KRhlelsVLoyOJf-pEZtTi1_OFtgj5YPamJKUu4XJxus4wuS1NvY6g3p4TpT9mLK_JmXq6o8MwoZKQFwgHUoPHbJh9eoOJfVpRB8FVNrWVsM0Fn13jHthUghnNfV5bF4M0S8nHtWl0U2Np9kkTqQl9p3acEoxtkFgi5RUt1XOeZ5te0cuozS2Djj5o/s1024/Flobackarms.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="713" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9kr3KRhlelsVLoyOJf-pEZtTi1_OFtgj5YPamJKUu4XJxus4wuS1NvY6g3p4TpT9mLK_JmXq6o8MwoZKQFwgHUoPHbJh9eoOJfVpRB8FVNrWVsM0Fn13jHthUghnNfV5bF4M0S8nHtWl0U2Np9kkTqQl9p3acEoxtkFgi5RUt1XOeZ5te0cuozS2Djj5o/s320/Flobackarms.JPG" width="223" /></a></div><br /><p>On the end result, wow. The drape, the fit, the back pleat, are all winners. Both the plackets and the collar are smooth and a perfect fit. Truly the only detraction is the print. The print of the fabric is busy. The pockets are of questionable use and my decision to bias cut them and place the largest design across the diagonal was overkill. Nonetheless, the pockets are striking and may add more to the shirt than I realize. They are definitely a wow. But a wow that I need to become comfortable with. The back is fabulous enough to compensate for the overwhelming pockets. Not bad for a toile, especially one that used only half of the fabric.</p><p>p.s. Those are the pants from my last post.</p>Susan Lunihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17799333297406389634noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492301279871001546.post-42317579534248464732023-11-15T08:28:00.000-08:002023-11-15T08:28:48.697-08:00I Dare Pants with New Look 6458<div><br /></div>I have not worn pants for a few years now. I just gave them up once I deemed jeans were no longer comfortable. True, I did buy a couple of pairs of cotton cropped trousers when they first came into fashion. They hang in my closet still because I successfully upcycled a pair of double-gauze capris into a skirt when upcycling was how I sewed. I keep thinking I will upcycle the trousers into skirts, but pause when I remember that upcycling is more work than cutting and sewing. After all, the garment has to be almost completely taken apart before the cutting and sewing starts. That is an extra step. It might be good for the planet if the end result is wearable, but wearability is more of a risk when there is no pattern to follow. <p></p><p>Once I dropped upcycling, I started buying fabric and patterns, concentrating on the main gap in my wardrobe--skirts. Since my entire wardrobe was built around blue jeans and tops, the economical approach was to add skirts. I tried to by skirts but found it difficult. A case in point were the 3 hours I spent at a San Francisco area outlet mall that yielded only two skirts, both gray. I figured if I can't find skirts in any store in a big city mall, skirts are just not available. After that, I began upcycling jeans into skirts and fell into sewing full tilt during the lockdown. Now, I have a fairly full closet. (Which is why there's been no sewing since June.) However, there are no pants in it. At least, none that I wear. With cold weather approaching, I dared to try sewing a pair of warm, comfy pants. </p><p>My wearable toile used 3 yards Prussian Blue Poly/Lycra brushed sweater knit. ($3/yd., 58" wide. $9 FM) The only pants pattern I have for knit fabric came with one of my most-used basic skirt, top and dress patterns, New Look 6458. Since I have used this pattern repeatedly, I felt confident with a size 16. A size 14 would be a more flattering fit, but these should be comfy, not cute. Well, cute won't hurt, but a brushed "sweater" knit does not promise a flattering fit. If I like these and wear them, there's other knits in my stash that can be cut to a size 14. </p><p>Once cut, there were no markings to be transferred. The pieces went together in less than an hour, even with the oh-so slow stretch stitch. For the waistband and hems, there was a heavy ribbed knit fabric from JA, <span style="background-color: white;">1 yard Cream athleisure rib, 43", 90% nylon/10% spandex, $10.46. The cuffs and waistband used less than 5", call it $2, for a total of $12.50 or so. Although the ribbing is labeled machine wash gentle cold, tumble dry low, the brushed poly knit is gentle wash. I washed them in cold water, shorter cycle and hung to dry. There's no agitator in my top loader so it is gentle enough. </span></p><p><span style="background-color: white;">My new stretch twin needle performed well as long as there was the stiffer ribbing under the needle in the mix somewhere to reduce the tunneling. The hems are twin needled, but the less visible waistband was attached with a stretch zig-zag stitch. The three layers of the seam allowances were stitched together with the same in an effort to keep them turned in the proper direction--down for the waistband, up for the hems. </span></p><p><span style="background-color: white;">All in all, a neat and comfortable finish. Matching the ribbing color to the main fabric would dress it up a bit, but this one is fine for these casual pants. </span></p><p><span style="background-color: white;"></span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-xEKiBjn_MDFY-9ccHHJHbaw6G4Kxug9GgnEkFrJ20lu5BczEBNt__LH6zYmZApiWGdcgwFdc6RPNWWoT7scHgm-BjpZbXFfRotjGDGAF0gRSbvjkzlBkzsybU9XdWCAqxBNrL0g-Ky8A5Go2k0Zq0OMiI4lVd9f3eKQRS8v4sAidphlhPYK23Pl7eQt3/s3024/IMG_1220.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-xEKiBjn_MDFY-9ccHHJHbaw6G4Kxug9GgnEkFrJ20lu5BczEBNt__LH6zYmZApiWGdcgwFdc6RPNWWoT7scHgm-BjpZbXFfRotjGDGAF0gRSbvjkzlBkzsybU9XdWCAqxBNrL0g-Ky8A5Go2k0Zq0OMiI4lVd9f3eKQRS8v4sAidphlhPYK23Pl7eQt3/s320/IMG_1220.jpeg" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="background-color: white;"><br />Here is a flat lay for now, there will be another photo of these pants when the coordinating shirt is done.</span><p></p>Susan Lunihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17799333297406389634noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492301279871001546.post-72629382359195413412023-06-29T08:34:00.000-07:002023-06-29T08:34:56.830-07:00McCalls 8053 as a summer tunic<p>My inspiration:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTyBcSEKDCri8Rds9N2rbx3CqT6Q2l7dIsSBqQdFgXPmQvtPAe02szGqTTb9Jauwt6CrRzkOubXAexdRWviTBH-o6E8FotcF8CJcwROQ7Fcc9NyhkA4-RaQ9jtPMMqM8wfd5_DKuJmcMD31gy3tGd2iwW46UkSKBN3huxcrU4EN_wClj1j0Y4UnulMY6e5/s583/IMG_0716.PNG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="499" data-original-width="583" height="343" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTyBcSEKDCri8Rds9N2rbx3CqT6Q2l7dIsSBqQdFgXPmQvtPAe02szGqTTb9Jauwt6CrRzkOubXAexdRWviTBH-o6E8FotcF8CJcwROQ7Fcc9NyhkA4-RaQ9jtPMMqM8wfd5_DKuJmcMD31gy3tGd2iwW46UkSKBN3huxcrU4EN_wClj1j0Y4UnulMY6e5/w400-h343/IMG_0716.PNG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><p>These are the pattern photos for the Tosca tunic by Tessuti.</p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh60d2Kt7szxX_eBFr6eN8wtYb8TH6Z3yf1fUZNkVI3rXmYBZNS0JVXJ2r86A29u6JTptA7LfF4fM9RgFf9JMQGcLObo0NeoEFZCjE778M0SrbFUna_9TUkufg1uixK8rjZm_cRCiTzUSUxILZykAR1xwVPPg688A5Wa6P2nSw9HqbCu4MTnss2WmcZX4cO/s589/IMG_0715.PNG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="584" data-original-width="589" height="396" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh60d2Kt7szxX_eBFr6eN8wtYb8TH6Z3yf1fUZNkVI3rXmYBZNS0JVXJ2r86A29u6JTptA7LfF4fM9RgFf9JMQGcLObo0NeoEFZCjE778M0SrbFUna_9TUkufg1uixK8rjZm_cRCiTzUSUxILZykAR1xwVPPg688A5Wa6P2nSw9HqbCu4MTnss2WmcZX4cO/w400-h396/IMG_0715.PNG" width="400" /></a></div>My fabric:<p></p><p><span>Crinkle Gauze, rayon/cotton, sheer, yarn dyed woven plaid large checks in black on white. 44" 4 yards, $7.99 reg, $2/yard on sale, $8 total. </span></p><p><span>My pattern:</span></p><p><span>McCall's 8053, a simple straight dress with short sleeves. It has darts, which the Tosca does not have. The sleeve piece from my recent vintage jacket pattern was used to lengthen the pattern's sleeves.</span></p><p><span>This pattern has a neck facing or a neck binding. Since my fabric is the type that rolls and stretches and loses its shape way too easily, the facing offered a simpler means of finishing the neck. In a fabric with more body, the binding would be a better imitation of the Tosca. This fabric needed shoulder stabilization with an extra bit of woven fabric sewn into the french seams. The floppy fabric is also the reason there are no pockets. It just isn't worth it because they couldn't hold anything without sagging. This fabric, I am told, will s t r e t c h. (<a href="https://liftingpinsandneedles.com/tag/how-to-sew-crinkle-rayon/" target="_blank">See this post by another sewing blogger</a>.)
</span></p><p><span>In my experience, it really wasn't that difficult to sew, even with french seams to control the fraying. In fact, in most cases, it was so malleable that setting in the sleeves and matching the plaid across seams was easier than with a straight woven fabric. It is definitely a very forgiving fabric! The sleeve length was just a wild guess in this case, cut along the "lengthen or shorten here" double line in the jacket sleeve. However, it is long enough to have a deep hem that can be cuffed up. <div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwVLINfGUp2HLsZjTTFw5cQJ2Nif02m_r-92FochJwJ55Orel6NLgQSiYGkOFqGLMhHFhy1MgNwE1o-KucHBajiftYpgLudTGebjLRBL1Ix7nfFf3HkhdVebrKvAaXcSk35mpJmPxSks9HJ-je_l6nOHe1uTnfUWiadwnjVOlvaRGL-sNjDP9TDKm3RO_k/s1024/WhiteWinner.JPG" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" height="600" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="730" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwVLINfGUp2HLsZjTTFw5cQJ2Nif02m_r-92FochJwJ55Orel6NLgQSiYGkOFqGLMhHFhy1MgNwE1o-KucHBajiftYpgLudTGebjLRBL1Ix7nfFf3HkhdVebrKvAaXcSk35mpJmPxSks9HJ-je_l6nOHe1uTnfUWiadwnjVOlvaRGL-sNjDP9TDKm3RO_k/s600/WhiteWinner.JPG"/></a></div>Or not.</span></p><p>In spite of the differences, I am really pleased with this dress. I can see that the fabric is not as fine as the crinkle linen that was used for the Tessuti sample, but since this rayon/cotton is more opaque, I prefer it as a more practical, age-appropriate garment. True, it isn't as long as the Tosca, but that was my decision. I opted for a more conventional length, to be worn without an underskirt.</p>Still, I couldn't resist trying, with the aid of photo editing tricks, to imitate the modeled sample.<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVHHf-6xqwBc77vUOgXohajNKPKbGyB6ZEyVFPR4Z4KBUh2Leh0A6JXS0ypNq3XDosdMuzuZsKboCj0JLAdVlYCKrvZDo_DTiiDllea3fq1gIWt5E3MatFc2Ik4_cWs-RvGMUWcV28pvr2j3eRsVyaTAtqfSNmBgAouDnEWKf2j7LkaA5OH25Z1p5ggj4s/s2024/sidexside.png" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" width="600" data-original-height="1646" data-original-width="2024" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVHHf-6xqwBc77vUOgXohajNKPKbGyB6ZEyVFPR4Z4KBUh2Leh0A6JXS0ypNq3XDosdMuzuZsKboCj0JLAdVlYCKrvZDo_DTiiDllea3fq1gIWt5E3MatFc2Ik4_cWs-RvGMUWcV28pvr2j3eRsVyaTAtqfSNmBgAouDnEWKf2j7LkaA5OH25Z1p5ggj4s/s600/sidexside.png"/></a></div>I don't mind making myself look older and grayer, but I couldn't find an editing tool for the glasses and the short hair cut.😂Susan Lunihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17799333297406389634noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492301279871001546.post-65716353479386721812023-06-25T12:53:00.000-07:002023-06-25T12:53:18.929-07:00Combining New Look 6511 and McCalls 8197<p>Detour: While waiting for the white, summery fabrics to get washed and dried, this make combines the sleeves and skirt from McCalls 8197 with the bodice from New Look 6511, and adds pockets, to make a full coverage dress from a sedate sateen. Hopefully, cooler weather is not too far off. 🥺</p>The McCalls pattern is cute, but it requires an invisible zipper in the back. Something with a single button in the back is easier to put on. Using the simpler bodice also avoids the zipper, the bodice lining, and the low-cut neck. It also lowers the empire waist and thereby lengthens the dress. The fabric came from Fabric Mart, 3 1/2 yards of cute brown/black print Sateen; cost: $15.75; 58" wide; 20 oz. It is like a lawn, so quite light. <p>The armhole of the size 16 in the McCalls (the smallest size in the pattern block I have) is similar enough to the armhole of the size 14 in the New Look. The sleeves fit well enough. Both patterns specify sateen, thus this soft and light fabric worked just fine. Per the instructions for the McCalls, the neck is bias bound. That too worked well because the sateen is heavy enough to not need a lining. The pocket piece is from McCalls 8192, a pattern that has fitting issues with the princess seams. The bodice of the New Look pattern is a much better fit, especially since its armhole darts really work well for me. The skirt is the longest option in the McCalls pattern, combined with the ruffle for the shortest version. Even with all this extra coverage, there is still over 1/2 yard of this sateen left. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8aQONTGlGA82oVWM50XN_jpF_zbo-sYAwmDEGBgMg5hszv625m1xCLa4KQsAfHdmYyea0VglBS0EF09nS3dJl6pRhL9tdR8EARG_uhq_L3e8EYE1cxwXYMWIpWP_T_GGnVWN73p1RfgJiKrK0-TiLUlc4nMyfnO-O_y_2hSuG7gZWUk8DtP1pQzIa9Mmw/s1882/IMG_0714.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1882" data-original-width="1412" height="600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8aQONTGlGA82oVWM50XN_jpF_zbo-sYAwmDEGBgMg5hszv625m1xCLa4KQsAfHdmYyea0VglBS0EF09nS3dJl6pRhL9tdR8EARG_uhq_L3e8EYE1cxwXYMWIpWP_T_GGnVWN73p1RfgJiKrK0-TiLUlc4nMyfnO-O_y_2hSuG7gZWUk8DtP1pQzIa9Mmw/s600/IMG_0714.jpg" /></a></div>I really like it. I should look for more sateen.<p></p>Susan Lunihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17799333297406389634noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492301279871001546.post-46567084499918254872023-06-24T12:06:00.000-07:002023-06-24T12:06:05.774-07:00Using Vogue 9258 to make a white summer top<p>A simple black skirt meets a fancy white and black top. Will they be compatible? Read this to find out! Vogue 9258 is the subject of a few reviews that indicate it runs small. For that reason, my first version was quickly sewn up in a Feathery Leaf Sketch Printed Linen, 2 yards, 42" wide, $21. This fabric was listed as a misprint and was offered at a discount by Fabrics and Fabrics. My assumption was that there was an error in the appearance of the print, one that I could perhaps cut around. Instead, it is too much ink throughout the printed motif. There was so much dye or ink applied in this print that the black areas are stiff. After washing, the white softened a bit but the black remained stiff. Since the pattern sketch of this Vogue top appears to show it standing away from the body, i.e. not draping, this linen seemed a logical choice for a wearable toile. There was one benefit from the excess ink in that it secured the cut edges, making it possible to get by with simply pinking the edges instead of a more time-consuming finish. (I had tried open flat fell, and had considered overcast or bias-bound finishing before realizing that the edges just weren't raveling.) With that, it sewed together quite quickly. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAoT7i7Ghl8TqRQs-D_okFeJ9dZYrraZD1Vj9svoKXw2eKGRc2N8mKBZsrj-y9INIR-iu-uT3dy0LH8zB2nVrSwfX5PKVhqELADXMcLMslnQooOR-cQDegVNDS8OSHIBxbRjFMg3MGjdGpnuf-jp0MBxaKsOr0ezygz4OeuT7P3EFych7-tYq-w3F97Q/s1482/image.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1482" data-original-width="1201" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAoT7i7Ghl8TqRQs-D_okFeJ9dZYrraZD1Vj9svoKXw2eKGRc2N8mKBZsrj-y9INIR-iu-uT3dy0LH8zB2nVrSwfX5PKVhqELADXMcLMslnQooOR-cQDegVNDS8OSHIBxbRjFMg3MGjdGpnuf-jp0MBxaKsOr0ezygz4OeuT7P3EFych7-tYq-w3F97Q/w518-h640/image.png" width="518" /></a></div><br /><p>The size 16, the largest size in this bundled size, looks ok, but a size 14 will definitely work for the next version. The only modification I made was to move the dart point down by 1". This make used purchased single fold bias binding and 4 buttons from my button box, that is it.I like it well enough. I might make it again, but I would rather try the version without buttons. That one has a keyhole opening in the back, with a single button. </p>Susan Lunihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17799333297406389634noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492301279871001546.post-28984410803255779182023-06-10T11:50:00.008-07:002024-02-10T13:32:25.677-08:00 Sewing Hot Weather Dresses<p>Given that Peppermint Magazine patterns are wonderful; gingham is in fashion; and the weather is hot, my answer to the question of whether I should sew a Wide Strap Maxi Dress was: Yes, Yes, and Yes!</p>
The dress came from 4 yards black and tan mini check homespun (100% cotton, 45" wide, made in India, $14.36). There is a huge, unbelievable and unexpected weaving flaw in this fabric. One of the rows of black is missing a few weft threads, making it obviously narrower that the others. Since it never occurred to me that such a flaw was possible in gingham, I did not look for it. That's too bad, because there was enough fabric to cut around it. Now, though, it is sewn up and it looks like a seam or something odd across the back. Since this is a house dress and not a big deal, it is staying. At least it is in the back where I will not be looking at it. <div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge64Au9wbpdT72wqg-DHRr905B-q7rG7y2dknCCbM1oVeG3bRShopVNXbPbmCZg5qgmPzWjIzC8CPCLhxEnKEirmhtYBVzFVhZPL3Lu_Ln1nXpAUmFZxASIciHG3BXSlhbyriB65SNkYmWrY3g8hFDilp1K0E_7RvnRPTgWSKesUVMMNbsiuj4yyPo3w/s1024/summerdress.JPG" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="730" height="600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge64Au9wbpdT72wqg-DHRr905B-q7rG7y2dknCCbM1oVeG3bRShopVNXbPbmCZg5qgmPzWjIzC8CPCLhxEnKEirmhtYBVzFVhZPL3Lu_Ln1nXpAUmFZxASIciHG3BXSlhbyriB65SNkYmWrY3g8hFDilp1K0E_7RvnRPTgWSKesUVMMNbsiuj4yyPo3w/s600/summerdress.JPG" /></a></div>
There were not many modifications, other than removing a total of five inches in length, an inch or two each in the bodice, the skirt and the hem. (Both the front and back pieces of the pattern are now permanently altered). There was another (optional) 1 inch taken off the hem. This version is a E at the top graded to a D at the bottom. A size D all the way would have worked.
The straps are wider in the center and placed about a half inch further into the center back. The facing needs to be a bit wider to fit properly. Here, the facing seams are narrower than indicated to make it fit. It was very difficult to get the straps in the right spot to cover bra straps and to adjust the elastic in the back. Another approach would be to run a couple of ties run through two channels in the back to make the back adjustable. The length of the straps is ok, but could be a bit longer. Maybe, straps that tie at the shoulders would be better. This dress is my go-to at home wear on a hot summer day.
Another option for those days is the Southwest Day Dress that is based on a photo of a RTW dress.
<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqwaExbIg8ugWKD8VF1-AAuiwknbO3f7HlDoXjzfNORBF9P1WebtzzNSuzZRLEG3nnIFkHM2H06-sArY6iLIORC4i-f4mXWBD-JvcA9xpkbONXuvXv8paAbwjqzHzfHlm06tlUjxtKBlm-NqB9Cu42Zk_8-hoo8deu6DiCUtdOFGwMzheQYbNVWhUML373/s600/061023sw.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="465" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqwaExbIg8ugWKD8VF1-AAuiwknbO3f7HlDoXjzfNORBF9P1WebtzzNSuzZRLEG3nnIFkHM2H06-sArY6iLIORC4i-f4mXWBD-JvcA9xpkbONXuvXv8paAbwjqzHzfHlm06tlUjxtKBlm-NqB9Cu42Zk_8-hoo8deu6DiCUtdOFGwMzheQYbNVWhUML373/w310-h400/061023sw.jpeg" width="310" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>This project used remnants and 2 yards of the Taos Texture print cotton from Taos Adobe Quilting. The 16" of the Kokopelli print cotton from Taos Quilting was enough for the top and a patch pocket. Some leftover rayon/linen blend in teal from JoAnn was more than enough for the center panels, even though they required piecing. Simplicity 7024 vintage pattern provided the shape for the top. The center panel is cut at 8" and measures 6" across once pleated. The side panels are 14" wide from the center seam. There's enough ease in them for two small 3/4" to 1/2" pleats on each side. A repeat make should use the same print for the top and the center panels and possibly omit the center panel in the back. It could be wider, with deeper pleats, or it could have side slits or side pockets. There are a lot of possibilities in this design, especially since it uses remnants.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqjH4TgDM6xOWt50XElS4cu85FIBqctN8W5Ma9W07qCZQDFGbfSrWi-jh6Rk2Cy3_95KgHHUCR3HnO-iLbP1uAjmD32uJnJ_C8uTpXRQmibYTbQ8mTOVC9mryfO2OBDg9NIHFFFqatJv8GDzaQw-3OoNXgQb-dkQ5nlPnGADtF_CgWMAiUjAjTvHJeNn_K/s600/061023.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="333" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqjH4TgDM6xOWt50XElS4cu85FIBqctN8W5Ma9W07qCZQDFGbfSrWi-jh6Rk2Cy3_95KgHHUCR3HnO-iLbP1uAjmD32uJnJ_C8uTpXRQmibYTbQ8mTOVC9mryfO2OBDg9NIHFFFqatJv8GDzaQw-3OoNXgQb-dkQ5nlPnGADtF_CgWMAiUjAjTvHJeNn_K/w223-h400/061023.jpeg" width="223" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>The Taos Texture was quite prone to ravel and is finished either with zig zag and pinking or by turning under the edge and top stitching.</p>ETA: This post was written in the summer of '22, only just published in the summer of '23 after finally taking a photo of the Wide Strip Maxi Dress. It is hot again, and more hot weather dresses are underway. If any get completed, they will be posted here.<p></p><div>Ok, one more, in a crinkle gauze using the wide strap maxi pattern. This is now cut down to a size D all over. There wasn't quite enough fabric, so it is 5" shorter at the hem. I moved the dart point down one inch, a standard modification that I didn't mention above. The crinkle fabric is difficult. See my post on the Tosca Tunic knock-off for more on that. This fabric is especially difficult in that besides the stretching, it has a rough feel. However, it is very light and will be nice on those hot, hot days.</div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFSY8oSp8BpbeZXapR2kObKZ7cAsfZK7eusNfVVLudD0Y1o38IUmfYzEa-S3WKIOkmTzQd0j2SCWK-IDSUl9R8OAtr99ewLvtbGGBhvGN29GdBZIFfALPaWHAeHkis5VODoGkX6O8jTTgWxvhAfVtRjem_eNJl4Ez6kU6-2TwZIKTJcR4VMZhw7S74t01i/s3693/IMG_0850.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3693" data-original-width="2770" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFSY8oSp8BpbeZXapR2kObKZ7cAsfZK7eusNfVVLudD0Y1o38IUmfYzEa-S3WKIOkmTzQd0j2SCWK-IDSUl9R8OAtr99ewLvtbGGBhvGN29GdBZIFfALPaWHAeHkis5VODoGkX6O8jTTgWxvhAfVtRjem_eNJl4Ez6kU6-2TwZIKTJcR4VMZhw7S74t01i/s320/IMG_0850.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><p></p>Susan Lunihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17799333297406389634noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492301279871001546.post-9564228816481007452023-06-09T12:03:00.000-07:002023-06-09T12:03:09.149-07:00Mandarin Collars, Denim Jackets, Railroad Twill, and a 1977 Pattern<p>New Look 6513, my recent make, put me on to Mandarin collars. A search found a vintage pattern on eBay, Simplicity 7998, a pattern so old that there is only one size provided (or it may that it is the Canadian version). Just one size meant there had to be a muslin made. The fabric is duckcloth left over from the bag I made, 100% cotton, 44" wide. The 2 yards were $9.99 reg, $4/yard on sale, $8 total. Once I laid out the pattern pieces, I saw that the pattern was missing the two pieces for the short sleeve option. With only the long sleeve option, the fabric was not enough for all the pattern pieces. The seller could not find the missing pieces and sent a refund. I used that to buy a size 12 version of the same pattern, figuring I could use the sleeve from it with a slight adjustment.
(Note: The first pattern came with an extra yoke piece from another pattern--it's now in the envelope for Vogue 9255. That pattern includes a yoke top that might could use a lower, deeper yoke.) </p>
There was over two yards of the arrow print, in a gorgeous slate blue, but it was narrow and missing a large chunk (the pockets in the bag). To get the best use of what remained, I cut just the pieces I needed as I worked through the construction of the jacket. This is a carefully considered approach, one that allows for a lot of thinking and testing, necessary because I was not only dealing with limited fabric, but I was also trying to align the print and match it as much as possible across pieces. First I cut out the body pieces and sewed them together, thus allowing me to visualize how it would look before placing the next pieces on the fabric to cut. Next, I pieced together the facing, putting a seam through the longer portion to save as much fabric as possible for the sleeves, pockets and cuffs. Once I constructed the jacket body, I realized that the fabric I had pulled out of my stash for the binding and trim would not look good with the main fabric. Neither would the main fabric with its large graphic. Another trip to the store yielded white duck cloth for contrast. Since the contrast is extreme, I decided against using the contrast fabric for pockets. I eaked out long sleeves even though they required piecing in additional fabric so that the seam line was hidden by the cuff.
<p>The construction was tricky. However, the duck cloth was easy to sew. It helped too that it was very much a test garment. I am not sure I would ever wear this graphic print. Rather than having the pressure of creating an error-free finish, I concentrated on the details of construction, planning a final jacket in an nicer fabric that I <i>will</i> wear. Contruction details, such as reinforcing the 90 degree corners and aligning the collar edges to the jacket front were particulary time consuming but not overly frustrating. The 46-year-old pattern instructions were exacting but easy to follow. <div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB2i_fingKU1nBKMzuqkmY0rLSr3zGVYeiHWNYxPFWp7VKpkpIDbpYlwVZSWflIR931n2ypQfiVIwxpdQUQR89h20OKqMvV_Q1pSYUjfHLGYemcnmAozfpFPC2-N2rlT0g4-EocNIFrI6xODUTstXSf_6wifEq6pbTOmKruR3bRdTyvTOeSJivILBEDA/s1024/jackethung.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" height="400" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="950" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB2i_fingKU1nBKMzuqkmY0rLSr3zGVYeiHWNYxPFWp7VKpkpIDbpYlwVZSWflIR931n2ypQfiVIwxpdQUQR89h20OKqMvV_Q1pSYUjfHLGYemcnmAozfpFPC2-N2rlT0g4-EocNIFrI6xODUTstXSf_6wifEq6pbTOmKruR3bRdTyvTOeSJivILBEDA/s400/jackethung.jpg"/></a></div>
Sleeves set in easily and the fabric pressed out smooth. Loops, bias binding, all per pattern. The exact size buttons required were located on Etsy. Only after ordering did it become obvious that they are being shipped from the Netherlands. For a couple of dollars! Unfortunately, they are not white enough to use for the jacket. However, they were sufficient to determine that a 1" plain rectangular toggle button looks good on the jacket. <div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW2URRcIYICFBigCfwzuS63QHaspKTJ5t_4zNQx-RnLLHltmWI-HlkyAaKEEyheVp0N83RrRAURPO6qe4prqhn355nv2544Pclg-GxFhiDMXhU5ZdUUbUI95zB04bczNxevGHSF0ODGR1K7D96tO6t3nnezmwPBqBL-fFk5b5lWDUNFtGXGoQaKBzXyw/s1024/jacketbuttons.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" height="320" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW2URRcIYICFBigCfwzuS63QHaspKTJ5t_4zNQx-RnLLHltmWI-HlkyAaKEEyheVp0N83RrRAURPO6qe4prqhn355nv2544Pclg-GxFhiDMXhU5ZdUUbUI95zB04bczNxevGHSF0ODGR1K7D96tO6t3nnezmwPBqBL-fFk5b5lWDUNFtGXGoQaKBzXyw/s320/jacketbuttons.jpg"/></a></div> Mood fabrics in New York City stocks a nice button selection. They had a white toggle button reasonably priced.<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzi4rEY5bfLObKGqnnorTjHfEo2IYkmCZzvrxP79xubEmKOXpxL2wSGfkS2vwvF9tvdK6w0USwwTd2d29vR_nND9niu-VHYX6FPlppAQDjTLG0tXZEy3BtnItozfF3sOsRrlB4AWQCILi2lqJGXpcxtcGqM0xAOSpvN6Bg_W2tD8XuSF9OOzl8Q8rKTA/s1024/jacketclosed.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" height="320" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzi4rEY5bfLObKGqnnorTjHfEo2IYkmCZzvrxP79xubEmKOXpxL2wSGfkS2vwvF9tvdK6w0USwwTd2d29vR_nND9niu-VHYX6FPlppAQDjTLG0tXZEy3BtnItozfF3sOsRrlB4AWQCILi2lqJGXpcxtcGqM0xAOSpvN6Bg_W2tD8XuSF9OOzl8Q8rKTA/s320/jacketclosed.jpg"/></a></div>
The white shirt is the Toaster sweater, version 2. The skirt is a summer ponte knit from JA, cut to McCalls 8055, size 14 with a size 16 waistband and 2 inches in length added to view C.<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvP2FVeJEDAeCFNaW9HczNS3ub5hKPqaoKMIOazzHgdO5w3kkctSccecW76H-8KoQyhR7tCjPKFcLwVMixbjy-Xeg5vYo7aFjK5B2Kz3tylAbFWuMdoUBpVGH20EpHDpWqcRT2n5lWMESlAmuG8nE7TBGvrGeTxk2IjcJubhuF99ESTw2_NbkVActvkw/s872/jacketopen.JPG" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" height="400" data-original-height="872" data-original-width="621" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvP2FVeJEDAeCFNaW9HczNS3ub5hKPqaoKMIOazzHgdO5w3kkctSccecW76H-8KoQyhR7tCjPKFcLwVMixbjy-Xeg5vYo7aFjK5B2Kz3tylAbFWuMdoUBpVGH20EpHDpWqcRT2n5lWMESlAmuG8nE7TBGvrGeTxk2IjcJubhuF99ESTw2_NbkVActvkw/s400/jacketopen.JPG"/></a></div>
A good version of this jacket is in my future, but the fabric choice is not set at this time. It could be something to wear with the railroad twill from Stone Mountain and Daughter. The twill fabric is 2 yards of cotton spandex twill with a railroad stripe in indigo/ivory, $26.00, 8.26 oz/sq yd, 280 gsm. 52" wide. This is silky but heavy, not much stretch but feels smooth. A skirt from McCalls 8222, view B came out great but convinced me that there will not be enough of the twill left over for the vintage jacket pattern, not even with a cropped jacket and the short sleeve piece. (The size 12 is just 1/4" deeper in the sleeve cap, so a small mod in either the sleeve cap or the jacket armholes should make it possible to use the size 12 sleeve in the size 14 jacket.) Adding 1/2 yard of "denim" from JoAnn still wasn't enough to complete the jacket. (This is a very stretchy denim, selected for its weight, softness and similarity in color to the railroad twill. It is so stretchy that it ruffled when the edges were serged. 64% cotton, 33% modal, and 3% spandex. cold wash, line dry, $6.25.) It is disappointing, but there just isn't enough of the railroad twill left for a reasonable jacket. On top of that, washing the 1/2 yard of denim made it stiff. This unseasonable project is put on hold until the fall.<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh16qifW0CFMax2Sb3n8GgfA4naKjvP2deoO_miXv-7uI_N_wzZnR2X-nAg4rcYn8sov-YhNVx6adzf5r_7NDPdvMNuGTxPc2XjuTTpSR8_wSnKpKzAQF6Ot5xz0rMduSTNLsx70cgW6JPpSh26D1UfHlmFEHcJObwRvlSJybcYMjQWsy8CZrqjtRz9KQ/s1024/Railroad%20Skirt.JPG" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" height="400" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="733" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh16qifW0CFMax2Sb3n8GgfA4naKjvP2deoO_miXv-7uI_N_wzZnR2X-nAg4rcYn8sov-YhNVx6adzf5r_7NDPdvMNuGTxPc2XjuTTpSR8_wSnKpKzAQF6Ot5xz0rMduSTNLsx70cgW6JPpSh26D1UfHlmFEHcJObwRvlSJybcYMjQWsy8CZrqjtRz9KQ/s400/Railroad%20Skirt.JPG"/></a></div>
Making a knit top to wear with the skirt served as consolation. The particular shade of indigo in the railroad twill was difficult to match, but careful shopping turned up a knit jersey, 60" wide, "Peacoat Navy", 200 gsm, 95% rayon, 5% spandex, Machine or hand wash, cold, line dry, $10.78, made in China, at Hobby Lobby. It is a wonderful, soft and drapey fabric, lovely to wear and difficult to sew unless there are multiple layers or stabilizer to secure the stitches. Prior to figuring that out, I ruined a sleeve after a good solid chunk became embedded in the feedplate. Thankfully, there's over a yard left, so I was able to cut out a replacement and continue with the otherwise straightforward construction of New Look 6458, a pattern I have used for two dresses. This top uses the dress pattern but has sleeves instead of armhole bands. The sleeves are near perfect but need a bit longer hem. A size 14 tapered out to size 20 at the hips worked well. In a heavier fabric, tapering to size 16 would be better. Rayon jersey tends to stretch out long and narrow, making excess fabric a safe bet.
This simple jacket pattern will probably be followed by a more traditional denim jacket, in khaki cotton twill $3/yard on sale, 60" 3 3/4 yards, $11.99 reg, $11.25 total. Someday. For now let's concentrate on summer clothes. Susan Lunihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17799333297406389634noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492301279871001546.post-28683999300270139392023-04-28T12:10:00.001-07:002023-04-28T12:10:55.522-07:00New Look 6513<p>Whatever possessed me to make a first version of a pattern in an expensive, difficult to obtain, long coveted fabric? Thank goodness this is not a tale of woe. Either the fabric is quite easy to sew or my skills are improving.</p>
The fabric was 1 1/2 yards of Nani Iro double gauze in New Morning print, bark brown. It's 100% cotton, 43" wide, $26.00, again from Stonemountain and Daughter, purchased to go with the bright blue denim blogged in my previous post. This fabric has been on my purchase list for a while. It is hard to miss the enthusiastic reviews it has been getting, but equally hard to buy fabric on a review alone. After all, there's a lot of double gauze out there, mostly for half the price. Could Nani Iro be so different? Of course my answer to that question is now yes, it is worth it.
So why not break out the cute, complicated pattern that resembles ready-to-wear?<p> The only problem with using a good fabric for a first toile is that it is best to start with a larger size. Since my heart was set on a nice top in this lovely fabric, cutting it out too large was not an option. The cut lines used were at size 14, grading to size 16 at the hips. They worked well, but the larger cut on the hips might not be necessary.</p>Regarding the pattern, it is complicated, but here are some helpful hints: First, don't bother to mark the pleats on the fabric. The pleats follow the line of the princess seamed dart that is cut into the fabric. Just mark the end of the pleats and the sewing line on the dart. Sew the dart and pin the pleats so that the stitching line is 1" away from the previous seam. The pleats are 3/16" deep when folded (they take up 3/8" of fabric). In fact, the cut line in the neck makes it obvious where the dart starts, so once that is cut accurately and the bottom of the pleat under the seam is marked, you are good to sew. The facing for the front slit goes on easily. (Ignore those confusing on line reviews that complain about the instructions--unless they are complaining about the neckband.) The neck band is not easy, but the instructions are clear. The end result is quite neat, and worth the extra effort on the tightly curved seams.<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1NJS0W6ruT6_ZvNv_ptdMFMnWKLic5ofcRztUh_9wsXql4laEKxdj8rIJ6TVPUJjZHjg2qAcwrNgRmZi6tJ7ZUPd4GzGHhxKrcgPKIdoWr25e9qOUi0gPWi4SrZP6DItIqd693L2NQpsRrJ4pc6tE1pbnBl5Ou-F0xtJwPEIVwhnCJPtDbfpsoIGL9w/s1008/blousefin.JPG" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1008" data-original-width="719" height="600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1NJS0W6ruT6_ZvNv_ptdMFMnWKLic5ofcRztUh_9wsXql4laEKxdj8rIJ6TVPUJjZHjg2qAcwrNgRmZi6tJ7ZUPd4GzGHhxKrcgPKIdoWr25e9qOUi0gPWi4SrZP6DItIqd693L2NQpsRrJ4pc6tE1pbnBl5Ou-F0xtJwPEIVwhnCJPtDbfpsoIGL9w/s600/blousefin.JPG" /></a></div><p>
There was really only one problem with this fabric, one that I saw as soon as I prepared to sew the back and side seams with a French seam. The copyright for this fabric sits well away from the selvedge, so far that I cut the back pieces including the copyright name. The letter ended up outside the seam allowance, so now it sits in the middle of my back. If I had looked at the print carefully before I cut, I would have tried to avoid using the fabric with the copyright on it. Additionally, I would have reversed the direction of the print. Most of the flowers seem to point downwards, as though they are falling to the ground. In addition to the possibly upside down flowers, the copyright is on both the back and the waist tie. As it was, however, there was just barely enough to manage the neckband without placing a bunch of mismatched flowers on it. A Nani Iro print like this one needs extra yardage to allow for "fussy" cutting.</p>
The sleeves were difficult to set in because the gauze fabric is sticky and hard to smooth down. Since the pleat might make the sleeve too tight, the pleat depth was sewn at 7/8" instead of 1". The hem was turned down 1/4" and sewn at 3/4". It's been worn with the new denim skirt from the last post. It has been washed and still fits, just barely. It probably wouldn't look as tight without the back tie pulling it in.<p>It remains to be seen if I will sew this pattern again. It is cute, but so cute it should be reserved for dressier occasions. <br /></p>Susan Lunihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17799333297406389634noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492301279871001546.post-59909521539651040932023-04-02T09:24:00.002-07:002023-04-02T12:18:09.538-07:00Skirt Sewing Success, McCall's 8222, and a repeat Alberta Street<p>Some of the fabric that was on end-of-season sale at a price "cheaper than muslin" was quite nice. The piece used for this first try of a skirt pattern is a lightweight cotton. It may be considered quilting cotton, but it is smoother and lighter weight than most of those. The fabric is a floral print, 100% cotton, black and white with green and gold accents on gray background, 44" wide, 2.5 yards, HL $6.99 reg, $3/yd on sale, $7.50 total. The toile started with a size 18.</p>
And problems! This pattern has a fly-front zipper. That was a first for me. After following the pattern directions most of the way through the zipper install, I missed the second-to-last bit about pushing the fly facing out of the way when top-stitching the fly. As a result, the fly was sewn shut by the top-stitching. Thank goodness for my long-standing zipper rule: remove all the basting as soon as you have it sewn in and zip it up and down. If you can't, there's a problem! As a bonus, this testing routine also lets me spot any unattractive sewing around the zipper. The zipper is in now. It actually unzips and is much straighter than it was at first.
<p>The side seams could have been simple. However, this lightweight cotton was a good candidate for French seams. In spite of my limited experience with French seams, they worked great. The other seams are all either enclosed hems or heavily topstitched, except for the fly facing. There was no seam finish for the raw edge of the facing. It is interfaced, so maybe that is why it is left out? Since fusible interfacing doesn't usually survive a machine wash, though, the raw edge was overcast.</p>
The waistband did not fit the skirt. It was a couple of inches smaller. After checking the other sizes for waistband length, it was obvious that this is the correct waistband and that the darts and pleats are correctly sewn. It was just that the skirt stretched out. The top edge of the skirt should be stay stitched at some point. Since it was already stretched, there was nothing to do but ease it into the waistband by gathering it a bit, mostly in the back. The pockets and fly had stabilized most of the front sections. With that, the waistband is a perfect fit.
<p>Lastly, there was a problem with the buttonhole due to operator error (forgot to pull down the buttonhole lever). Note: If the lever pull down step is fogotten, just rip out the bit of buttonhole and start over. Don't expect the machine to remember where it was when it went into error mode! With a manual finish, the salvaged buttonhole works well and is completely obscured by the button when it is fastened. <div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwk5QG5xUVqkRi6loiLYHVMiidJKhJScYb8HGJ4oU5M32x-ScgP7VnoBipHJnmarGdf77YsIr48EDZ3_Saoh-DGhGOrrren4t3XRJ_i2oepdnMoMzUIZwjKzZfV_LigYX_gH6eXvEynhZ8gDm0xvEY38_G0Jqk8rqQDUJcd8Qe_vHPd0GLj_ZpPWs-0A/s3760/35C64601-2D80-4A54-8055-48830A1747A6.jpeg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" height="600" data-original-height="3760" data-original-width="2820" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwk5QG5xUVqkRi6loiLYHVMiidJKhJScYb8HGJ4oU5M32x-ScgP7VnoBipHJnmarGdf77YsIr48EDZ3_Saoh-DGhGOrrren4t3XRJ_i2oepdnMoMzUIZwjKzZfV_LigYX_gH6eXvEynhZ8gDm0xvEY38_G0Jqk8rqQDUJcd8Qe_vHPd0GLj_ZpPWs-0A/s600/35C64601-2D80-4A54-8055-48830A1747A6.jpeg"/></a></div>
This is a great skirt, even if it is a size too large. It may shrink with repeated washing. There's another version coming up, in the recommended twill fabric. It will be smaller, and maybe shorter. Other modifications will be larger pockets (Using the pocket from McCall's 8205 will make the pocket a couple of inches deeper so that my phone won't fall out when I sit down!), and more topstitching (maybe). The hem on this skirt is topstitched at 1" with a lace hem tape sewn to the seam allowances on the sides of the front slit so that the topstitching continues 1" from the edge around the slit. The pattern provides for a narrow folded and double top-stitched treatment on the front center seam, a treatment that would work in the recommended denim or twill fabric.
<p>Not wanting to lose my skirt mojo, I cut into some precious denim I scored with a lucky on-line purchase. It's 1 1/2 yards of a cotton/spandex denim in bright blue, costing $16.80 from Stonemountain and Daughter Fabrics. Since it is such a bright blue, I opted for traditional gold topstitching at 4, tension at 6. Since this is my fourth version of this pattern, it is a size 12 waistband and graded to a size 10 skirt. The grading was a little off. The skirt, sewn with 5/8" seam allowance at the side seams, fits in the waistband and lower skirt, but the portion from the waistband seam down to 4" below the start of the pockets needs more room. For this one, I sewed a smaller that 3/8" seam there but will need to adjust the cut line in the pattern before I cut out another version. In the expectation that I might want to change the side seams later, they are sewn with a rather large stitch, pressed open with an overcast stitch on each edge. </p>However, I am not sure I will make another Alberta St. skirt for a while. I have made 3 already, 2 of which I wear frequently. This one gave me the opportunity to play with topstitching on a nice denim. Stitching in the ditch to secure the waistband facing worked well in this fabric, as did the topstitching on the yoke, hem and back flap.<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCyLJmpbzUKOID0TIt7dpd5ON-Cke6DCJiuaxK_gOXlv-hjETdBtcxb-uMEzug31UADb1dP2SWVY-1yNitaZD4aYo--3rtLpWyMcGuCoKai6RDbpSepkINkgKLA6vFynJ4iOjq4wfydrTpTXQbGASHcl3sPwyMYP3bFAJBPwQeTXI9WNM-cjAFRJFFrg/s3328/9EDA804E-EC45-4937-BCCC-52560CA96B05.jpeg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" height="600" data-original-height="3328" data-original-width="2801" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCyLJmpbzUKOID0TIt7dpd5ON-Cke6DCJiuaxK_gOXlv-hjETdBtcxb-uMEzug31UADb1dP2SWVY-1yNitaZD4aYo--3rtLpWyMcGuCoKai6RDbpSepkINkgKLA6vFynJ4iOjq4wfydrTpTXQbGASHcl3sPwyMYP3bFAJBPwQeTXI9WNM-cjAFRJFFrg/s600/9EDA804E-EC45-4937-BCCC-52560CA96B05.jpeg"/></a></div>
The exposed zipper used in the back zipper opening was a design choice that has its own story. It's one of <a href="https://www.hobbylobby.com/Fabric-Sewing/Sewing-Quilting-Notions/Zippers/Fancy-Separating-Zipper---7/p/80786915" target="_blank">those cute little metal zippers with the scalloped lacy edges on the zipper tape</a>. These zippers could be attached with the tape on top of the opening to leave the fancy zipper tape visible. However, that means that the raw edge of the zipper bottom would be exposed. In the end, since a denim skirt did not need scallops and lace, only the metal zipper is exposed, with a standard exposed zipper opening with a facing. <div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU8gTq4C8jHD0Wu_f7tj9QCBcenbG-R_ifa4-NEYT8d1WmC9qF1-TBsIxTHQg5tvRBCOe7gDMy-FLEZxh6Z9tp6ZV3O_hi023RTJlx46Vu_Pt9-zbtvtrKsfOgHEWhWfiqV3QtnNXwcmn6vkhACW3u_FDyWdGncE8gHlK55mJXaFLozLN8QTAwidSvAQ/s2173/E78C51C8-149E-4A56-BA2D-343A1A3165CE.jpeg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" width="400" data-original-height="1703" data-original-width="2173" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU8gTq4C8jHD0Wu_f7tj9QCBcenbG-R_ifa4-NEYT8d1WmC9qF1-TBsIxTHQg5tvRBCOe7gDMy-FLEZxh6Z9tp6ZV3O_hi023RTJlx46Vu_Pt9-zbtvtrKsfOgHEWhWfiqV3QtnNXwcmn6vkhACW3u_FDyWdGncE8gHlK55mJXaFLozLN8QTAwidSvAQ/s400/E78C51C8-149E-4A56-BA2D-343A1A3165CE.jpeg"/></a></div>As far as future versions of this pattern, there was 1 foot of fabric left over, so 1 1/4 yards of any fabric wider than 48" will be enough. 44" wide fabric will probably take more, maybe not.
A final note on topstitching: I visited the local Bernina shop to discuss sergers and coverstitch machines. Their machines are mildly interesting, but not really tempting to me right now. The staff at the shop suggested that a wider twin needle with a stretch tip might help solve my wavy hem problem with the knit fabric that I experienced in my Toaster sweaters. I bought one to try, as well as a couple of packs of topstitch needles. Topstitching with a topstitch thread really looks much nicer than with regular thread.
Susan Lunihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17799333297406389634noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492301279871001546.post-59961239266183562102023-03-18T13:32:00.001-07:002023-06-14T08:41:36.463-07:00New Look 6511 and Toaster, First Tries<p>Since the two tops from Vogue 8922 were successful, I have tried out a couple of others. New Look 6511 is a pattern for a trendy top, one that is fitted on top but breaks into a full gathered skirt above the waist. My "muslin" shopping in the end of season sale fabrics this fall turned up a gorgeous batik, 100% cotton, black and tan/gold, 44" wide, $12.99 regular price, $5/yard on sale, Since it wasn't really "muslin" type material or price, I did constrain myself to 2 yards, keeping it to $10 total.</p>
I furthered the frugalness by using sheermist batiste in black for a lining. That was a modification, since this pattern does not call for lining. Rather, it uses single fold bias binding at the neck and armholes. The back slit at the neckline is just folded in and stitched. None of that seemed nice enough for this pretty fabric. I cut the lining out first, in a size 14, grading to 16 at the waist, a size 12 at the front neck and a size 18 at the back neck. The back neck height is probably ok in the size 14, but the seam allowances at the neck and the armholes are only 3/8" to allow for the bias binding attachment. Adding that bit extra from the size 18 allowed me to sew a 5/8" seam at the neck. The darts are good where they are; the side seams are actually ok at the size 14, but the back rides up and out a little. Adding 1/4" to the back shoulders has helped. Once the skirt was sewn on, it weighed down the back enough to make make everything sit properly. The pattern is now adjusted based on how the lining fit. So the lining was actually the toile, because I love this batik too much to consider it a toile.
<p>The pattern recommends 4.5" of ease, meaning that my size was between 14 and 16. Cutting the 14 puts it at 3" of ease at the bust. The pattern photo looks like it has less ease than that. Although it is very cute that tight, reducing the ease in this fabric is probably not a good idea. That would make the top difficult to put on and to move around in, since this fabric has no stretch. Nontheless, the top baloons out in back and fits well in the front only because the shoulders (either its or mine) make it sit forward. It fits from the armholes to the bust because of the darts, then boom, fullness, an effect that is problematic for this fabric which has no drape. While the fullness could disquise bulges, the waist is not fitted enough to compensate for it. The fullness would be eliminated by adding darts or by tapering in the side and back seams for a better fit at the bodice below the bust.</p> Adding darts will correct it but would change the original design. The pattern intends an A-line shape that widens from the armholes to the end of the bodice. I intend for it to be more fitted, like the photo on the pattern envelope. A second version should have less ease, either through tapering the side seams or adding two 3/4" darts in the back, one on each side of the center seam, about 2.5" from the seam and shortening the skirt by a proportionate amount. (i.e. several inches) <div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR1pduNhvKnfA5u3Dzw1MBdwfHIqL9QlFVtCqn7cauIANFPZ0zxAJ7qDVLAp4Y2dE5Lve6W9WRQ5SqiMUp30zNRmjxbfXU9mVsuF51dqIWHcnW2eG_9zNHU6V1BJL7IKTY57t72y8YDEkwIRZVu_DEABg5BXm_6vDlpi7FS2S6LW8SZ-wYbTJLhL8nyw/s759/vogue.JPG" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="759" data-original-width="525" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR1pduNhvKnfA5u3Dzw1MBdwfHIqL9QlFVtCqn7cauIANFPZ0zxAJ7qDVLAp4Y2dE5Lve6W9WRQ5SqiMUp30zNRmjxbfXU9mVsuF51dqIWHcnW2eG_9zNHU6V1BJL7IKTY57t72y8YDEkwIRZVu_DEABg5BXm_6vDlpi7FS2S6LW8SZ-wYbTJLhL8nyw/s320/vogue.JPG" /></a></div>
The top is long on me, more a tunic length. The skirt I plan to wear with it is below knee length and looks good enough with the longer top. The means of making the button loop or fastening needs work, but first I must shop for an alternative elastic or other material. In the meantime, the elastic loop can stay fastened when I pull it on.
<p>ETA: I have since altered this top, taking in the side seams and back seam 1/2" each and shortening the skirt 5". I also attached a self-fabric loop for the button at the back neck. It is improved and may actually see some wear. I will be using this pattern for a dress now that it fits. <div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0SErvdu8Ojqnl5nXRVbGG54GpPyYoqQrTxyS-6RkhMDlHr6ZgkrJF6GF6iHQKGRtvuZkjYaoMG0564eS6_0WseAn7irCjg2OYaJ53PBJRINl12e-vc3tbr1DH30_MVoVaZkutupEHy_-Kfsx6uhlf7G9TOxfQl6QGRCs0_p-UAuxEp7vixaPR_L-qGA/s1024/newbatik.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" height="400" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="732" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0SErvdu8Ojqnl5nXRVbGG54GpPyYoqQrTxyS-6RkhMDlHr6ZgkrJF6GF6iHQKGRtvuZkjYaoMG0564eS6_0WseAn7irCjg2OYaJ53PBJRINl12e-vc3tbr1DH30_MVoVaZkutupEHy_-Kfsx6uhlf7G9TOxfQl6QGRCs0_p-UAuxEp7vixaPR_L-qGA/s400/newbatik.jpg"/></a></div>The Toaster Sweater from Sew House 7, Version #1 is an older popular indie pattern. There are hundreds of versions blogged, reviewed, youtubed, etc. My only hesitation about sewing it is that I do not have cotton sweatshirt-style fleece that has the recommended amount of stretch. I'm sure a Toaster will make a great sweatshirt, once I find that stretchy cotton fleece. In the meantime, I used the 1/2 yard of the brown ITY knit that remained after my Lodo Dress, along with another yard of the same fabric in Ponderosa green. It worked well. Since the fabric specs are in my post on the dress, I won't repeat them here, other than the price of the green fabric--$6.52. I cut a size 10, tracing the cut lines on the fabric with chalk and cutting with a rotary cutter to see if it is true that using a rotary cutter on knits makes them nicer to sew. My conclusion is: a little.</p>
In an excess of caution, I cut the bottom band to a size 12. Once I basted the raglan and side seams together, I felt it was made for a decent fit, maybe a bit loose. Even with a thicker fabric, the size 10 will work for those pieces. The final seam uses a knit stitch at 3/8" seam allowance, but since the needle sits over to the left for that stitch, it is closer to a 1/2" seam. That should tighten the fit about a half an inch, making it between an 8 and a 10 and allowing for more shrinking when machine washed and dried. The fit is good, the collar stands up in this ITY, as it certainly will in a fleece. The optional top stitching with a twin needle looks good on the raglan seams, but made them pucker a bit. Since most of the top stitching is on the body, which is brown, omitting the top stitching on the green makes for an intentional look. The only omissions of top stitching are at the neckline and sleeve cuff. The neckline doesn't need it and the cuff, the cuffs are a problem.
<p>The sleeves are too long for me. The sleeve itself should be shortened by at least 1 1/2". Since it is already cut out (that's the purpose of a toile, after all, to find and correct issues with the pattern), the cuff had to be reverse engineered to work this out. Taking 3/4" off both the sleeve and cuff meant that both had to be reshaped. After sewing the cuffs to the sleeve with a 1/2" seam, the sleeves are almost the right length--long, but not too long. Additionally, since there wouldn't be top stitching to hold the seam allowance in place, I changed it to a cuff with a facing and enclosed seam by hand stitching the inside cuff to the turned down seam. The end result is comfortable to wear but has a bulge at the seam from the thickness of the seam allowances.</p>
The body length is ok. The size 12 band fit the size 10 body. It could all be smaller. Unless a repeat of this pattern is in a fleece or otherwise thicker fabric, a size 8 with a size 10 band would be the correct choice. The top stitching ripples the fabric. Based on another top, even using the walking foot does not stop that. The sewing is a bit difficult in this medium weight fabric. A thicker fabric might require a different approach, such as sewing the cuffs on before sewing the side seams and sewing the seam allowance down on the outside (for comfort) with a visible hem stitch. Or--just buy a serger? <div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgscgrZpLzvsrNAoZaXjkjmhFQxv7LBJerQy21bdE2h2h-DycxnG39520J6psC217q7vv8-yvwJbdJSo27e2KB6zSJOoa2WalUD9A-ImmQ0IETqWuXLPazqlSKfxg9zHO4xmB15Gtlm0cmh0j9cMQ4ZqbAonvVJZh18EjafY4GgCd9bticKZdjKfq-exg/s849/toaster1.JPG" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="849" data-original-width="742" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgscgrZpLzvsrNAoZaXjkjmhFQxv7LBJerQy21bdE2h2h-DycxnG39520J6psC217q7vv8-yvwJbdJSo27e2KB6zSJOoa2WalUD9A-ImmQ0IETqWuXLPazqlSKfxg9zHO4xmB15Gtlm0cmh0j9cMQ4ZqbAonvVJZh18EjafY4GgCd9bticKZdjKfq-exg/s400/toaster1.JPG" /></a></div>I have been wearing it all day and liking it a lot, even the colorblocking. The fit of the raglan is the best of the several raglan patterns I have tried. Raglans are my favorite sleeve design so it is confounding that the raglan dresses I have sewn so far fit so poorly. This one is super. I need to compare it to the others and see what is different.
<p>My toile of the Toaster #2 used a 1 yard Shao White Waffle Knit remnant, 75% poly/23% rayon/2% spandex, $2.12. The fabric can be machine washed, gentle, cold, line dry, cool iron. It was originally 16.99/yard. This top also used an additional 3/4 yard of the same fabric (60% off, $5.19). The total cost of fabric was $7.31.</p>I used the stretch zig zag to sew it, set on a narrow and short stitch, maybe 2 (or 3) and 1. For hemming, I used the visible hem stitch, set to 5 and 1.5. That sits on the fabric around the waffle pattern so that it resembles the twin needle stitch that is recommended. I find the visible hem stretches better than the twin needle stitch. Unfortunately, even with the walking foot, the hem did not avoid that stretched out effect the twin needle top stitching created on the muslin of Toaster Sweater #1. <p>The only problem I had with this top was in distinguishing the right side of the fabric from the wrong side. I misplaced the seam tape on the front, ironing it onto the right side. (Note: The double stick seam tape recommended to secure the folded neck facing does not stick well on this fabric.) I was going to cut off the facing a bit and put it on correctly, but had so much difficulting in telling which was the right side and which was the wrong side that I decided that it didn't matter. The front is on the other side from the sleeves and the back. <div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg55DYQLSsvRtKrJ_iUpsqN4Qae7oj_pleJZGpbjAQLkUzLAfQpOyMmlB_9LCKwLAetXaRjRgYW8-dxPVMhLBd9nAVyLhjttHoiI5MnNh8iDmHbN3tCjWKC7PoL_xiTgb8I-ilhKidKaJOkrD9ivXC-GMfWhbV9VClmB5ODmbJD_C5xAK_Zn4PPxGrmIA/s714/toaster2.JPG" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="607" data-original-width="714" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg55DYQLSsvRtKrJ_iUpsqN4Qae7oj_pleJZGpbjAQLkUzLAfQpOyMmlB_9LCKwLAetXaRjRgYW8-dxPVMhLBd9nAVyLhjttHoiI5MnNh8iDmHbN3tCjWKC7PoL_xiTgb8I-ilhKidKaJOkrD9ivXC-GMfWhbV9VClmB5ODmbJD_C5xAK_Zn4PPxGrmIA/s400/toaster2.JPG" width="400" /></a></div> I really can't tell any difference in the fabric now. As far as fit goes, I cut the size 10, expecting it to be big. It is a bit oversize, not much. I did make the seams a little wider than the 3/8" specified. I shortened the sleeve by 1 1/2". That's a 1/4" or so too much, so I should change the pattern adjustment I made.
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKfy4tcExlAaa_L6RyeM-W8PPpqRqHCltmtRp76pRlmyF2ac9tWvQ5yofTMDNjs0rAQ6vr_x9sjaRerOh5jb5fgFOJ6EOLhLdL5BDqUPJTC3h9zqmpeJFOOj9yvMWPYCUlqOOA13qOXtJkjrPT2SV0HadIArrUgjVvLB-vvfan6oy2ZmSxlYRtYBxXaA/s1024/withface.JPG" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="715" height="600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKfy4tcExlAaa_L6RyeM-W8PPpqRqHCltmtRp76pRlmyF2ac9tWvQ5yofTMDNjs0rAQ6vr_x9sjaRerOh5jb5fgFOJ6EOLhLdL5BDqUPJTC3h9zqmpeJFOOj9yvMWPYCUlqOOA13qOXtJkjrPT2SV0HadIArrUgjVvLB-vvfan6oy2ZmSxlYRtYBxXaA/s600/withface.JPG" /></a></div>Finally, I finished my annual sweater. Ha, I only knit one sweater a year now, and this beauty is it for this winter. It is the Aava Sweater modifed from pullover to cardigan and it looks great with the Toaster Sweater and a 2022 knit skirt, the Snapping Turtle Skirt from Knitting Nature by Norah Gaughan.
Susan Lunihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17799333297406389634noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492301279871001546.post-78337153994996455602023-01-26T08:59:00.003-08:002023-01-26T08:59:48.173-08:00Not Clothes, Instead Bags<p>I used to be a serious devotee of the Fringe Association blog. In those posts I saw, I thought, a like-minded knitter. That was a rare event. Early on in my knitting "career" as my friends termed it, I realized that just because someone else knitted, I should not assume that we had anything other traits or thoughts in common. Nonetheless, I bit once again when I found the writings and the products of the now-defunct company. I even purchased a few items from the shop, dealing with the predictable disappointment when I received them. Ah, the internet is that place where things look so pretty but are usually useless. I watched, bemused, as the frenzy for some products grew. I stared, appalled, as other knitters posted walls of products I would never buy. I just couldn't believe they would pay what I considered an unreasonable price for a commonly available item and repeat that same purchase multiple times. But I shrugged it off. That's them, not me.</p>
Then, this fall, I received a message, from beyond the grave as it seemed. The dead blog spoke. I bit. I bought the Field Bag pattern and a swath of painted canvas. That was my Christmas present. I only just opened it last week. Life intervened.
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQJaKLafR-fd32j5qB8265-q3xCalWzIehTEiseZUa6HhmEhWJlIEF5phioc559_HkmJPfYqCaqSQxzaIugYhwJKPNie75-NynutZbVsHnVHqKkmEtpdutXrHFeNOmYDyvySAI1ovaTIj8qlf9_ImvzKA6N2rJY-FCKpHhlgeqKFv44b4n8hWGPcIg1w/s2970/377440ED-711F-4B0E-8D0B-27C58C228373.png" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="2630" data-original-width="2970" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQJaKLafR-fd32j5qB8265-q3xCalWzIehTEiseZUa6HhmEhWJlIEF5phioc559_HkmJPfYqCaqSQxzaIugYhwJKPNie75-NynutZbVsHnVHqKkmEtpdutXrHFeNOmYDyvySAI1ovaTIj8qlf9_ImvzKA6N2rJY-FCKpHhlgeqKFv44b4n8hWGPcIg1w/s400/377440ED-711F-4B0E-8D0B-27C58C228373.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is my toile, made in duck cloth. I will make one in the kit fabric later.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table>
However, now I dream of owning a wall of bags, similar to that I saw posted years ago. The only difference is that I will make them for what I hope will be a fraction of the price. Maybe I will actually use and enjoy them. If nothing else, the pattern and a few additional yards of fabric and notions will provide me with entertainment this Spring, when my closet is full, my dance card is empty, and I seek inspiration. Gotta keep the brain cells circulating.
<p>To start, one pattern, with notions, as a kit from Grainline Studios. A bit of fabric. My short acquaintance with canvas. Things I am learning: canvas is different from duck cloth. Canvas is about twice as heavy and stiff. The bag relies on the stiffness of the canvas to stand up. To aid the stiffness of the duck cloth, I am lining it. The wrong side of the printed cloth I chose is not particularly attractive. Lining will hide the wrong side. In addition, I am interfacing the lining with Pellon Decor Bond, a fusible interfacing product. It isn't fusing very well, but the stitching of the pockets, side seams and drawstring casing will hold it in place.
</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8ur3FB4M326rgfePBtH7HX_zRg07AMwMopa7qmXOj9PukpFSEFGAcoHULdtx8it22fnTXtXVw0n2PTQOLkjrsPKJ8TdwiuQaSMhO25jKeEBw5IVI3quB_AmInWl3wiO2-atksimENgtdwEhk2n0EF-X6jJa_MdvIEjhyYpjZ4PBjr5Je9xuHl74-WRQ/s4032/79039A5F-7695-472C-AFEF-3DDE250AA319.jpeg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8ur3FB4M326rgfePBtH7HX_zRg07AMwMopa7qmXOj9PukpFSEFGAcoHULdtx8it22fnTXtXVw0n2PTQOLkjrsPKJ8TdwiuQaSMhO25jKeEBw5IVI3quB_AmInWl3wiO2-atksimENgtdwEhk2n0EF-X6jJa_MdvIEjhyYpjZ4PBjr5Je9xuHl74-WRQ/s400/79039A5F-7695-472C-AFEF-3DDE250AA319.jpeg" /></a></div>
The pockets went in well, even with my one modification; I added a zipper to the grommet pocket and omitted the grommets. I have the grommets in my kit and may add them to another version. However, I am not sure I would use them to separate yarn as I knit. Once threaded through, the yarn would have to be cut to remove the project from the bag. That's not a big problem, but it will create a couple of ends to weave in, possibly in the middle of my project if I am changing what I'm carrying in the bag. Since the grommets will keep yarns straight when I am knitting with two strands, I want to try them at some point to see how I like using them--but not in this bag. This bag will be used immediately to carry my sock-knitting and reading supplies, supplies I want to use during rather long wait times. The zipper will keep my kindle in place without the on/off button being constantly pushed, as is happening in my purse. I realize a kindle isn't a required knitting accessory, but I get tired of knitting and need to read a little during long waits.
<p>The next bag will be plain on the outside, with pockets that are made to better fit the items I want to carry. Once I have used the first one, I will know how to outfit the second one. The third one will likely use the painted canvas and may have grommets. After that, I may be tired of this pattern and have moved on.</p>
The technical details are that this bag used most of 1 yard of printed duck cloth (100% cotton) from Hobby Lobby, a bit of Pellon Decor Bond, and the strap and drawstrings from the Grainline Studios kit. The duck cloth was on sale for $4.79/yd., the Pellon products were $2.39/yd., and the accessories in the kit, including the grommets, can be purchased for $11.00--without the grommets, it might be $7.00. A little dirty math puts the total cost around $12.00. It took about three days for this first bag, an hour or so a day. The next ones should go faster. The zipper isn't included in that, but it is a used zipper. It was 9" and was cut off shorter. If I need another zipper I will buy a 9" zipper and cut it a bit longer than this one. It isn't quite as long as the pocket. The ends are covered by bits of the fabric selvedge, making a neat edge that doesn't have to be topstitched or overcast.<p>
This toile was successful, creating a cute and useful bag. Other than the zipper in place of the grommets, there are no changes to the pattern. It is a small bag, basically 9" x 5". In the bag is a sock project and the tools to finish the remaining sock. It fills the bag. If the project is larger than socks or other accessories, the bag would need to be larger. Since I also have the Stowe bag pattern from Grainline, I see the larger version of that pattern, which makes a bag 14" x 7", might be something to try.
</p><p></p>Susan Lunihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17799333297406389634noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492301279871001546.post-44355737746504183072022-12-31T14:04:00.085-08:002023-03-05T12:03:26.906-08:00Vogue 8952, View B and View A<p>For my last sewing project of the year, it is appropriate that I chose a fabric that I had been wanting for the entire year. Each time I looked at those photos online, I tried to vanquish my enthusiasm for them. Whether my reasoning was "Too bright"; "Too childish"; "Can't tell how it feels"; it was all no avail. I bought 1 1/2 yards of the daisy floral printed stretch rayon jersey knit in Earth/Orange/Mustard/Gold, 49" wide, for $25.50 from Fabrics and Fabrics and I am so glad I did. </p>
It made a perfect first try of Vogue 8952, view B, size M. After testing several stretch stitches, I used a narrow zig zag (10/1.5/1.0) and the walking foot. Although I basically followed the instructions, I changed the order of construction, sewing in the sleeves before the cowl neck collar to avoid an extra change of thread.<p>I chose a contrasting ribbed knit for the collar, not only because I was a little short of fabric but also because the print on this fabric gives it an obvious right side. At the time, I didn't realize that the collar is doubled to the inside after it is sewn on, so no wrong side shows. However, the collar is only tacked down in the back. The right side on the ribbed knit is not as obvious and will make a better collar in case the collar doesn't stay right side out all the time. The collar is all one piece, sewn together with a flat fell seam. Although the fabric has stretch, straight stitch is all that is needed for this flat fell seam since the seam has no stress on it that would require stretch. The technique I used was to stitch the seam with one allowance longer than other, wrong sides together, then fold the longer seam allowance over and topstitch it down. After the collar is attached, it is topstitched down with a straight stitch. That should prevent the neckline from stretching out too much. </p><p>The sleeves and top were both hemmed 1" shorter by cutting off 1" and then turning under 5/8" for the double needle hems. The length is a little long for my style, but it won't show once it is tucked in or worn under a skirt or jumper. It can always be shortened, so best to leave it long for now. (Note: It wouldn't hurt to alter both hem and sleeves in the pattern to remove 1" of length. </p>
Ahem -- Ok, brace yourself, it is a lot of print. Sorta my fireworks for the day.
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrxPVh01K4F4IPcM5TuR7cuKOUE-BE6_WchPlGhhf_7QtcJlOJ_-m0qaX63Y2uTDyr6cTe5bNGS1jpm9T52diidpxVQ1YgrltU4UHAt4k5Ns_H7Q3fyUp06NkwT6lBXp7L_s1gtsfGc4ExXzph_LP82kRsU9SX9R0808lBaGpzwJ5LBO43IaIzKccX0A/s1015/flowerfinal.JPG" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1015" data-original-width="725" height="600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrxPVh01K4F4IPcM5TuR7cuKOUE-BE6_WchPlGhhf_7QtcJlOJ_-m0qaX63Y2uTDyr6cTe5bNGS1jpm9T52diidpxVQ1YgrltU4UHAt4k5Ns_H7Q3fyUp06NkwT6lBXp7L_s1gtsfGc4ExXzph_LP82kRsU9SX9R0808lBaGpzwJ5LBO43IaIzKccX0A/s600/flowerfinal.JPG" /></a></div>
This fabric is wonderfully soft and suprisingly thick, truly quality material. Since it may stretch, as my other rayon knits have done, it must be dried and stored carefully.
<p>Regarding the pattern, I like it. Overall, I am happy with the fit and would make this pattern again. If I do, I need to remember to do 3/8" seams between notches at waist if I want the same fit. I was a little put off by the points on the sides of this view, but they were surpisingly easy to sew and don't look bad. Most likely, no one will see them as I will probably be tucking this top in, wearing it under a cardigan, or under a jumper. It can use a little plain contrast. It will work well to liven up my dull skirts and jumpers, though.</p>Here's the side point:
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1abK2dKGqdk9uStnEwAA6AF7AsjuRnzjdypBHhdxROBznDmd1O0IYDoJ2hRsOF_szmJaODrxGZjvIQFI5LIyAZTt-RGUnsmvI43LxpAuIplk1KuwCgtagN_0Yh33onBxMFKDgrnWueNk3tLK-ALwcs2zs_KoK2eaAUSrhGRFOja0NvhpkFEhUHQlHbw/s525/flowerpoint.JPG" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="375" data-original-width="525" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1abK2dKGqdk9uStnEwAA6AF7AsjuRnzjdypBHhdxROBznDmd1O0IYDoJ2hRsOF_szmJaODrxGZjvIQFI5LIyAZTt-RGUnsmvI43LxpAuIplk1KuwCgtagN_0Yh33onBxMFKDgrnWueNk3tLK-ALwcs2zs_KoK2eaAUSrhGRFOja0NvhpkFEhUHQlHbw/s320/flowerpoint.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><p>Eventually, I hope to try all three views of this pattern. Toward this goal, I made View A, the raglan with the banded neckline in an ochre rayon ribbed knit. I was excited to purchase this fabric because the color and fiber content were to my taste. I bought 2 yards of a 61" wide ribbed knit, 96% rayon 4% spandex, from Hobby Lobby (hand wash, cold, lay flat to dry, do not iron). It was on sale 66% off, total $10.19. My excitement stemmed from my favorable experience with wearing rayon knits and from my plan to work more brown into my wardrobe. Brown is terribly hard to find in the fabric world! Once I started handling it, I became concerned that the fabric is a bit too thin. However, it all went together without mods until the hem. It was too long for the skirt I plan to wear with it. I cut off 4" and recut it to the same lines as a RTW top I had purchased from Gap. I am hemming the curved bottom and the sleeves with the visible hem stitch set on 5 and 3.5, making for a very nice and stretchy hem. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwqE7hOEevPnT4TPPeKZtRJJcvmabCEiypGW02IcMtMVQJWjEe0_XbVXIxWcguQLAmEyrLUXa5hEqjCbXjU27I6V4gvPYwJgxAVyMZJCGp90aX5Ugr6NmovblOFMZwldw_mary_Upx8HBMZ_gb33wVoTqGPqa135FbH_8tpveD_UB1QcKcVt5LxaV6dg/s1024/gold%20raglan.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwqE7hOEevPnT4TPPeKZtRJJcvmabCEiypGW02IcMtMVQJWjEe0_XbVXIxWcguQLAmEyrLUXa5hEqjCbXjU27I6V4gvPYwJgxAVyMZJCGp90aX5Ugr6NmovblOFMZwldw_mary_Upx8HBMZ_gb33wVoTqGPqa135FbH_8tpveD_UB1QcKcVt5LxaV6dg/s320/gold%20raglan.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>In spite of the fact that the raglan is too roomy in the armholes and has that dumb dart at the shoulder that I don't see in RTW raglans, I really like wearing this top. There is still View C to make, but I am hesitant to try the dolman because it is normally harder to cut out.
</p>Susan Lunihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17799333297406389634noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492301279871001546.post-7637924666288904852022-12-26T12:25:00.083-08:002023-05-04T07:35:54.001-07:00Two Versions of the Lodo Dress by True Bias<p>A quick toile of the Lodo Dress took less than 1 1/2 yards of ITY in Potting Soil, one of my favorite JoAnn colors. I was able to order 2 yards (their minimum for shipping of fabric (57" wide, 60% cotton, 40% polyester, machine wash gentle cold, dry flat, cool iron, total $14.98), enough for either length of the Lodo Dress. After a spin in the washer and dryer, it lost 2" per yard, thus was only 1 7/8 yard, maybe 54" wide. I knew I wanted a below-the-knee dress, so I took 2" out of the length for view A, later using another 2" in the hem. One half of a yard remained after cutting the front and back. The facings are cut from 1/2 yard of a cotton paisley print fabric from Hobby Lobby (only $3 after 40% off, with a good bit left over after the facings were cut). </p>
The center back and shoulders were sewn together with a stretch stitch, 09/1.5/3.0. There's no ripping that stitch out, but it looked the best of several zig zag options I tried. Facings were applied per pattern, but I did pink the edges, clip, and understitch them before basting them down. Then I used double needle topstitching on the facings, the back vent, and hem for a more professional look. The side seams are sewn at 1/4" instead of 3/8" for now. It may shrink more with wearing and washing. If not, it could be taken in. <p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsZnclguInaWGg62ssMxDnLREhGuoJbu4P5TOZ-hjyeg47ezEBthbvs5iURnQfDDmjM9NMRjxKQZsUfniswM4tSBk_lpl7ZT3DYlFwMtKr1Vsx69tApUw8Yw29VvH_WaH0j4b2J9I4aZ5-OgZOzZvdaCWJK0LBxmHiAsEijALEOHXMN_rImbFT0WoxdQ/s3739/234B8053-E52B-488E-BC54-27DB04F40671.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3739" data-original-width="2748" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsZnclguInaWGg62ssMxDnLREhGuoJbu4P5TOZ-hjyeg47ezEBthbvs5iURnQfDDmjM9NMRjxKQZsUfniswM4tSBk_lpl7ZT3DYlFwMtKr1Vsx69tApUw8Yw29VvH_WaH0j4b2J9I4aZ5-OgZOzZvdaCWJK0LBxmHiAsEijALEOHXMN_rImbFT0WoxdQ/w294-h400/234B8053-E52B-488E-BC54-27DB04F40671.jpeg" width="294" /></a></div><br />
The shoulders do not fit well, resulting in drag lines from the bust to the hip. If this doesn't resolve over time, I won't make another Lodo Dress. However, I wouldn't hesitate to try cutting the pattern back to shirt length, if I can resolve the fit issues. There's not a good cap sleeve knit top pattern in my stash.
<p>The second version of this dress used a novelty fabric from Fabric Mart. It is 1 2/3 yard of a wild red ruffled knit, 56" wide, costing $4.20. As required by the pattern, the dress needed 1/2 yard of a printed cotton fabric for lining. This fabric is a poly/cotton blend. While the fiber content is similar to the content of the fabric used for Version A, these two knit fabrics are quite different. The ITY is a stable knit with minimal stretch. The ruffled knit is stabilized by the woven-in horizontal pleats. Without the horizontal seaming to secure the pleats, the fabric would be very stretchy and quite sheer.</p> Since the first version was cut on the size 10 lines, this one was cut closer to a size 8. Actually, it is a size 10 at the back shoulder and in the hips, between the two sizes at the bust, and a size 8 down to the hem. After lengthening the dress by two inches, the hem was cut to the shorter version, View B. The fabric is easy to sew, in spite of its texture. The pockets added as an afterthought were a bit difficult.<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGeAv7babF483WIpLYuDvQHevtL4XeeEpUvLXGlJo96YnKBhVBKC1pHQzTtmMLwkW7vZdfZO5KvUWpQyapwBV7JCB6V0slt1oY6qsrm2heU4ZvRGCaElDetQ3VjT5I_8LZv2W25bEGrA0Kc5sceyxQ5f6KBd9UDbL2EIxJpkmWQw38g8lGvujB79wMfQ/s1024/redpocket.JPG" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" height="400" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="729" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGeAv7babF483WIpLYuDvQHevtL4XeeEpUvLXGlJo96YnKBhVBKC1pHQzTtmMLwkW7vZdfZO5KvUWpQyapwBV7JCB6V0slt1oY6qsrm2heU4ZvRGCaElDetQ3VjT5I_8LZv2W25bEGrA0Kc5sceyxQ5f6KBd9UDbL2EIxJpkmWQw38g8lGvujB79wMfQ/s400/redpocket.JPG"/></a></div><p>The problem was solved once I decided that pockets cut from woven material should be overcast around the edges. Once they were and the placement calculated, the actual basting and sewing were easy. Thank goodness, for the pockets are cute and convenient, especially with the printed lining fabric showing a bit. After wearing the dress, the pockets proved useless for anything heavier than a hankie. Everything else just falls out in this soft fabric.
<p>The hem required that the pleat in the back of the fold be stitched down to prevent it from hanging down below the hemline. Once that was done, a simple topstitching was all that was required. Horizontal topstitching along the woven-in pleat lines practically vanishes in this fabric. <div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8yViZi6wz6_GLmij7NMqSB9wTKfslmFSbZ-bct3uVbcNwIzOfpGOPIw3nyWf22EGPxlp87NsgPNj8hfPTZcRolUEZE9YbAM-_wUjtc9fjeO12iaHpoxcJLh4h6ccQiMx8PfdajfxMrcjOoao0NmLrW0PsA8xxH34flXX8ADSTvpufWO0FMGye_YGE1Q/s899/IMG_0345.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" height="600" data-original-height="899" data-original-width="722" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8yViZi6wz6_GLmij7NMqSB9wTKfslmFSbZ-bct3uVbcNwIzOfpGOPIw3nyWf22EGPxlp87NsgPNj8hfPTZcRolUEZE9YbAM-_wUjtc9fjeO12iaHpoxcJLh4h6ccQiMx8PfdajfxMrcjOoao0NmLrW0PsA8xxH34flXX8ADSTvpufWO0FMGye_YGE1Q/s600/IMG_0345.jpg"/></a></div>It is quite a success. Now that it's done, it seems that red dresses are popping up everywhere. Must be a trend!Susan Lunihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17799333297406389634noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492301279871001546.post-36177242064109899382022-12-21T13:37:00.001-08:002022-12-23T12:58:58.283-08:00Roscoe Dress and other pattern difficultiesPattern difficulties are rare for me. Mostly, there's nothing in the simple sewing patterns that I attempt to assemble that puzzle me. If there is some piece or instruction that doesn't fit, it can be worked in, or worked out, one way or another.
<p>Most likely, the fault is my tolerance. There's always anomolies, some that I tolerate, some that I don't. My issues with the toile of the Roscoe dress pattern are minor. The fabric is 4 yards of a 100% cotton twill. (Brown Herringbone Cotton Calico, 44" wide, 4 yards, $19.56 at HL after 30% off, plus 33" of same, in a sierra red purchased as a remnant for $3.84.) This is very light, would be good for hot weather. That should be enough for the dress, in fact there should be about a half a yard left over. Since I had nearly a yard of the same fabric in another color, I was hoping to get both the dress and the short sleeve version of Vogue 8877 out of the total 4 1/2 yards. The anomoly in the fabric is that it shrunk to under 40" wide after washing! That's what I call short of fabric. The anomoly in the Roscoe pattern is that the straight lines do not match a straight line. They are not off by much, but they are off. What could cause this printing problem? Tissue paper? wrinkles? humidity? a crooked ruler? I don't know. With these little issues, this project was kinda getting on my nerves.</p>
My work arounds were: cutting the front of the dress on the selvedge edge;(Yikes, I know, I am reckless.) and cutting the back ruffle a couple of inches narrower than it should be. Even though the sleeves could have been a little longer, I settled for just adding 2" to the 3/4 length sleeves to get them to be long sleeves. After all that, there was only about 3/4 yard of uncut fabric left.
<p>Once past the cutting, there was the pattern itself. The neck band is cut on the bias but the sleeve bands are cut cross grain. The neck band stretched out to be a couple of inches longer than the the pattern piece. Perhaps it would be better cut cross grain? Either way, both the neck band and the sleeve bands wriggled out from under the needle when I tried to stitch in the ditch. That was a frustrating process, with a lot of starts and stops to secure the folded bands. With the band and the added length, the sleeves are still short, so a proper cuff would be good, or enough length to allow sewing a casing and putting elastic through it to avoid gathering. Another issue is that the folded and sewn down ties attached to the neckband twist. The folding and sewing was a bit of a surprise. Usually these type of ties are sewn from the wrong side into a tube that is then turned right side out with a bodkin. Alternatively, the entire neckband and ties could be replaced with a casing twill tape. That would avoid gathering.
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4eROhyETeRKzlwc73Rx4kqUEyIcjwxwe37mi7udbWBXrFXc-WdQavcheIBH3pmo5WX2WK0T2WZKJr19_9jqAs5xeMCZVCDdkAnIF3VUnl_AkotQp2GoOPnxtsuHp3yG_eIvp7OU5kzPxTqCXZJn8t5z2wWAhInC_kMQ5EI-uHNKJOD9aqk5fDch3Idw/s947/roscoedr.JPG" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" height="400" data-original-height="947" data-original-width="677" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4eROhyETeRKzlwc73Rx4kqUEyIcjwxwe37mi7udbWBXrFXc-WdQavcheIBH3pmo5WX2WK0T2WZKJr19_9jqAs5xeMCZVCDdkAnIF3VUnl_AkotQp2GoOPnxtsuHp3yG_eIvp7OU5kzPxTqCXZJn8t5z2wWAhInC_kMQ5EI-uHNKJOD9aqk5fDch3Idw/s400/roscoedr.JPG"/></a></div>
Regardless of these small issues, the dress is good, especially in this fabric. It has enough drape that I could have cut a 10 instead of an 8. However, I prefer that the Roscoe, with its lack of pockets and lack of pizazz as a dress, should just be cut as a blouse. In that case, the size 8 it is now cut to will work well in a variety of fabrics.
<p>Next came Vogue 8877. First there was the toile, the first time I attempted the pattern. This pattern does have a lot of ease and could have been cut smaller. However, the size block I have starts with a large size. Truthfully, the large is probably the best size, as long as it is cut a bit smaller in the bust and on the cut line at the hips. The only fit issue with the large size for me is that the yoke is too deep. After the toile, I adjusted the yoke to be an inch shorter. Using the the remaining brown fabric plus a little less than one yard of the same fabric in an unfortunate pink/orange (salmon) color was enough for a second toile of Vogue 8877.
Less than one yard of each color is not really enough, forcing me to cut a yoke and a body of each color and mismatch them--the front has a salmon colored yoke with a brown body while the back is reversed. Since there was more of the salmon fabric, the back is cut a couple of inches longer than the front.
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-Wuudy7mRrBccN0jav_pGa2LnemJsbx95nINay_3JoCGCD-QtxqqFzN8R12A4ByYY9Ol4E09wjbG7qkdmVGODHTPAFsKLObidlMLeX-GKOpCldj-A8JBiYTkvydkdF5vIk7kgM_EDK_wUoWftkz47aTYOUzcreBaupvt_ckOIKli2l0qw-Dyx1dgzHA/s703/brownvoguetop.JPG" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; "><img alt="" border="0" width="600" data-original-height="703" data-original-width="703" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-Wuudy7mRrBccN0jav_pGa2LnemJsbx95nINay_3JoCGCD-QtxqqFzN8R12A4ByYY9Ol4E09wjbG7qkdmVGODHTPAFsKLObidlMLeX-GKOpCldj-A8JBiYTkvydkdF5vIk7kgM_EDK_wUoWftkz47aTYOUzcreBaupvt_ckOIKli2l0qw-Dyx1dgzHA/s600/brownvoguetop.JPG"/></a></div>
That's the big reveal. I think it is cute, and that Vogue 8877, for all my angst, is just fine. The only thing to discourage repeated sewing of this pattern is that color blocked patterns mean changing thread, if I care to match thread color across colors.
In the end, my sizing insight from this whole experience: for patterns that must fit on top, buy the smaller size and adjust the bottom. For ones that must fit on bottom, reverse that, and buy the larger size. In sum, buy larger sizes in skirt patterns and smaller in tops and adjust accordingly.
Susan Lunihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17799333297406389634noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-492301279871001546.post-30716183913997276702022-12-05T07:16:00.001-08:002024-02-10T13:46:02.533-08:00McCalls 7981, View D (new) and View A (toile)<p>Warning: The waistband on this pattern is 4" longer than listed on the pattern piece. Although it matches the other pattern pieces, it is larger than the lengths in the size chart. However, the discrepancy between the size chart and the pattern pieces can be accounted to ease. If you don't want ease at the waistline, size down. Do not refer to the measurement printed on the waistband, at least in the L-XL sizes. I prefer elastic in the back of my waistband and use the larger size to allow for it. However, it is nice to know after sewing the toile that I don't need the size XL in this pattern. </p>Another revelation from sewing the toile is button placement: Reviews of this pattern report a problem with gaping between the top two buttons. That problem ocurred with my flannel toile. It's because the buttonhole is placed horizontally on the waistband and vertically on the button band. In that case, the head of the buttonhole on the waistband should line up with the buttonholes on the buttonband, allowing the button to slide all the way over and still be lined up with the other buttons and the button band to align with the buttonhole band. In the toile, I centered the waistband buttonhole over the button band buttonholes. That didn't work because the pressure at the waist will make the button slide over the the head (left side as worn) of the buttonhole. The simple fix was to move the button over so that the bands align. However, on this and subsequent versions, I will place the waistband buttonhole further away from the edge of the buttonband and make sure the button is sewn in the correct spot to allow it to sit at the head of the buttonhole and still be lined up with the other buttons. Still, a fastener at the bottom of the waistband might help line up the button band with the waistband. <p>About a year ago, I made a wearable toile in this pattern, using View A, with an additional 6" in length. That made it between View A and B. I cut a size XL, even though L would have been large enough. Since there are only two sizes in the size block I purchased, it made sense to use the larger size for this wearable toile to allow for alterations and to take advantage of the drape of the fabric. This length used the full complement of 7 buttons, plain off white ones that were left over from a sweater project. <br /></p>The fabric was purchased at JoAnn and was 3 1/4 yards of cotton flannel in a printed plaid, 44" wide, $11.90. After machine washing and drying, it shrank to 40" wide and 3 yards long. There is at least a yard left over, so the actual cost is nearer $8. The contrast fabric is a brown Buffalo plaid flannel remnant from JoAnn (161008103, 3/4 yard, 86 cents).<p>All pieces were cut out with the fabric flat, except for the back which was cut on the fold, folded along a vertical stripe. Nonetheless, the plaid matching was difficult and is not as good as it should be. Matching the pockets to the exterior fabric, which meant cutting two of each fabric, did work well, since the side seams sit at an angle and the pocket and side plaid pattern can not be matched the full length of the seam. Matching the front button bands to the front panels was close--the horizontal lines of the plaid match and the vertical lines would have matched if I were happy with leaving the seam of the band that the buttons are sewn to exposed. I was not, so the plaid misses matching vertically by 3/8".</p>The hem method was a simple blind hem 1 1/2" deep with the button band folded over the hem. I put tailor tacks in the button bands to mark button and buttonhole placement. However, the 1 1/4" buttonholes were adjusted to the button size to 1 1/8" by the machine and the placement is 3" apart. The tailor tacks, which took some time, might not be necessary, especially in a small plaid like this one, where the buttons can be placed along the lines of the plaid.<p>There is a little extra fabric in back waistband that is taken up by 14" of elastic which is sewn down at the sides (where a side seam would be). The elastic could have been a little shorter, but not any longer than that. Adding the elastic made it a 32" waistband.</p>The buttonholes were very quick and easy on the Janome. I will be looking for more patterns with buttonholes now. The buttonholes in the beige thread that I used for the skirt are quite obvious on the plaid. Black would have been a better choice since they run down the black/gray stripe. It is a relief that they are even and tidy, since uneven buttonholes would have been noticeable.<p>Even with the difficulty of plaid matching and button bands, it is very likely that I will make this pattern again. I have just the right amount of tan linen to make View D, no matching required.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-PPpqNsow-XuWS5qpnmxlmvnkG87c1zkYZ2ATBtAQFZtw6z76fPb6rhYBRtXYy4wo9IdocX2FNHOy_uSJxxjmevZ7Ia-W3tRc0a2uL0zoB8ounE8Pxp06ullQ-JQvOmGh-oybi1E_Flm_pjjqsSYNsbQF0OnhFm8CXI7o4OrOUpeswMAXDClDftLrTWay/s600/120522.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="451" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-PPpqNsow-XuWS5qpnmxlmvnkG87c1zkYZ2ATBtAQFZtw6z76fPb6rhYBRtXYy4wo9IdocX2FNHOy_uSJxxjmevZ7Ia-W3tRc0a2uL0zoB8ounE8Pxp06ullQ-JQvOmGh-oybi1E_Flm_pjjqsSYNsbQF0OnhFm8CXI7o4OrOUpeswMAXDClDftLrTWay/w482-h640/120522.jpeg" width="482" /></a></div><br /><p>Now for the second version, a size L cut from view D, but 3" shorter. This used 2 1/2 yards of 56" wide linen, in beige, nearly 6 oz. (5.88) per sq yd, so it is heavy. Cost was $32.38 from Taos Adobe Quilting. It washed and dried beautifully, even smoothing out some variations in the weave that were like slubs. There was just one large slub that hangs ominously from a tiny hole at the lower back of the skirt. With a dab of fray check, it may stay put and not fray. This fabric does not fray as badly as a thinner linen does, but it still frays, leading me to overcast stitch the unenclosed seam allowances. It is too heavy a fabric for french seams and too light in color for a contrasting Hong Kong binding finish that might show through to the front. (In my view, a Hong Kong finish isn't worth the effort if you can't use a cute contrasting material.) Assembly was much simpler without having to worry about matching plaid patterns. After stitching the back seam and side seams, including pockets, the the hem is next. Wait, what? </p><p> The hem is sewn before the button and buttonhole bands are attached, simply because they are turned under around the hem. Although the different order of assembly is not difficult, it precludes the ability to hang the skirt, letting the fabric stretch into place, before hemming. As a result, the hem may look a bit uneven. However, the fullness of the skirt may disquise most problems.</p>After the waistband is attached, there is slip stitching--down the bands, around the hem and around the waistband, about 6 yards of hand sewing. Actually, the hem is supposed to be topstitched, but if you're slip stitching everything else, why not the hem?<p>The waistband is a puzzle. Even after stay stitching the skirt at the waist, the waistband is too short. Perhaps if the stay stitching is done immediately after cutting the fabric, it will reduce the size of the waist. However, the instructions put the stay stitching off until the skirt is assembled. At least the stay stitching can be used to ease the skirt into the waistband. Finally, putting elastic through the back waistband brought the 36" waistband in to 32-33". </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_FdfewEU4IS2HyGSDC9td3Z6Ge2iq6N3dHcy5tmq3JE50YEYZpjdV3E5_NS4JptQmEdCzRHsAXvQwAx2iZxvEuiZeEtmRyNMqSp0iDNcVUGbaIRKgFiVCgr2_PWe3e9CFuQBaueBfFh3fdQbvJseNbfKB93TK55DaHVPhr7cDRcjPNrsBEzOUzBK00Q/s1024/tanskirt.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_FdfewEU4IS2HyGSDC9td3Z6Ge2iq6N3dHcy5tmq3JE50YEYZpjdV3E5_NS4JptQmEdCzRHsAXvQwAx2iZxvEuiZeEtmRyNMqSp0iDNcVUGbaIRKgFiVCgr2_PWe3e9CFuQBaueBfFh3fdQbvJseNbfKB93TK55DaHVPhr7cDRcjPNrsBEzOUzBK00Q/s400/tanskirt.jpg" /></a></div>
View D is quite long, would be a maxi skirt on me, so I cut it 3" shorter. The result, at 31", it is a little long. It is recommended that a skirt hem hit your leg at the narrowest part in order to be flattering. (!?Flattering in what way, should it make your leg look thinner or more muscular?) For me that would be 28" for a below-the-knee length and 34" for a maxi skirt.
The buttons I have chosen are smaller than required, but I have them, they match, so on they go. The eight buttons are 3 1/2" apart, a little closer together than the pattern calls for the larger buttons. <div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCFaecdoPqkhUnAvPqfZZIvSUyFtAWumCnZE1ri2DgHMtM91O6VOljjNiPG8TfF4jnzyS3Jtz4u1EnK7VeWdOiDliJlrpForrTtO3ZXBP2YrWHzUa5i83KvAQ9wxZJWi4LyrRtmVjlzY74n9fVDl8wJvXU8q89kooknjI9lVdUTDyNrkX5c0fbvG-r7Q/s1024/tanoutfit.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="732" height="600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCFaecdoPqkhUnAvPqfZZIvSUyFtAWumCnZE1ri2DgHMtM91O6VOljjNiPG8TfF4jnzyS3Jtz4u1EnK7VeWdOiDliJlrpForrTtO3ZXBP2YrWHzUa5i83KvAQ9wxZJWi4LyrRtmVjlzY74n9fVDl8wJvXU8q89kooknjI9lVdUTDyNrkX5c0fbvG-r7Q/s600/tanoutfit.jpg" /></a></div> The vest is a recently completed knitting project, something quick from leftover yarn. I thought I would have to make a top to wear with this skirt, but it turns out that my hand-knitted sweaters all look great with this skirt. <p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p>Susan Lunihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17799333297406389634noreply@blogger.com0